Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

Hi All. I loved reading through this thread. Lots of owner knowledge that will help me out in bundles as I am going to be taking delivery of a '94 270 Sundancer in April, 2020, and I DIY 90% of the work on my boats. This is going to be my first SeaRay and frankly, I'm really psyched!

Welcome to the SeaRay Fam. I just recently purchased a '94 270 7.4 w/ bravo II back in October! Absolutely itching to get out on it. Unfortunately I am in the north, so boating season doesn't start till April/May for us.

Sounds like you have a lot of projects to get done, look forward to seeing your progress. I must say, swim platform has to be priority #1! Luckily the one I purchased has a huge platform, definitely was one of the selling points for me.

Also if you go ahead with the windlass install take lots and lots of pictures! ;) I'm a DIY'er as well and plan on doing that upgrade so would love to see how your progress goes

Cheers!
 
Welcome to the SeaRay Fam. I just recently purchased a '94 270 7.4 w/ bravo II back in October! Absolutely itching to get out on it. Unfortunately I am in the north, so boating season doesn't start till April/May for us.

Sounds like you have a lot of projects to get done, look forward to seeing your progress. I must say, swim platform has to be priority #1! Luckily the one I purchased has a huge platform, definitely was one of the selling points for me.

Also if you go ahead with the windlass install take lots and lots of pictures! ;) I'm a DIY'er as well and plan on doing that upgrade so would love to see how your progress goes

Cheers!

Hey Matt,
Thanks for the welcome! Wow, from your profile pic I can see that your swim platform is HUGE - and it has a grill too! Okay, you might be right and I might have to re-prioritize my punch list. Depending on how this winter goes (and it ain't looking good) I'm hoping to be able to get to work on the boat at the beginning of April so I can get an early May launch. I've already sourced several of the bigger ticket replacement items including the water heater and windlass. And for sure, I'll take plenty of pictures of the entire windlass installation and post them here. The main issue from what I've read so far is getting the wiring run properly so I can use a remote from the captain's seat. It would be unseemly for a captain of a "SeaRay" to have to go to the bow and step on a button just to drop anchor! Not happening - lol

And I hear ya about the long winters us northern boaters must endure. All of you guys in Florida and on the Gulf coast have no idea how good you have it. All-year-round boating is only a pleasant fantasy for all of us boaters who live above the Mason-Dixon line. So instead, we spend most of our "Winter boating" time on websites like this wishing time would speed up so we can get to the spring ASAP. On the plus side, we do get to plan more, so when boating season finally arrives, we know what to do and hopefully how to do it. Happy Holidays to all of you out there and we'll meet here again next year!
 
I have a 1999 270SE. The brochure says that it has a 100gal fuel tank. The parts manual shows it has the same part number for the gas tank as the 270DA. Whenever I top off the tank it seems it takes less than what I was expecting. I always thought the gage was off but I wonder if it's not truly a 100gal tank. Since they put the boat layout for a 270DA on the 270SE sales brochure, who knows what else they got wrong on the brochure. Has anyone with a 270SE been able to confirm that it is a 100gal tank? I've never let it get to empty.
 
Not sure this is the right thread but going to try here. Just bought a used 1997 270. It needs work including bottom paint and real good compound rubout and wax (ill send pics once I start the process). Its in my garage on a trailer (EZ Loader tandem 2006 with disc's on both axles) that also needs some work. Over the winter here in the NW I will do the bottom paint (pettit hydrocoat which other threads have indicated is stock) and take the trailer in to be addressed by qualified tech (maybe adding electric over hydraulic brakes jettisoning the Surge if I can). Here is my question - Its about blocking. I plan to use several Brownell stands. Two at the stern, two keel stands, and two near the forward strap lift location. Some other treads indicate the forward lift location but that's not actually where the stringer seems to be. Tapping the sides indicates a denser thud about 18 inches? forward of the lift location. I am sure that location is based on overall weight distribution and not the stringer location. Does it matter? I plan to lift the stern off the trailer with the Brownell Stands with cushioned tops (these are 20K capacity and way more than needed). I have enough room to slide them under the transom and staying off the trailer. For the forward points, I bought two Brownell BL3 boat jacks to lift forward location off trailer while I pull the trailer out from under and then will place two keel stands (one forward of engines under fuel tank on the keel and one about 10 feet forward of that) as well as set two additional brownell stands under the chines near that forward lift location and lower the pressure off the BL3 jacks. Of course the stands will be chained as well. Garage is concrete floor (steel reinforced 8 inch think so I am sure it can take the weight. Any comments would be appreciated.
 
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Ok ladies and germs, its December now and thought I would follow up here with progress towards lifting the boat off the trailer and getting on with the stripping and placement of the bottom paint. I finally got the trailer out from under the boat today. I have posted a few photos here of the stand positions for those wishing to do this on their 270's. I would definitely recommend you eat your Wheaties before you attempt this by yourself. I also took a lot of time and moved very methodically through the lifting.
_______________
The procedure was as follows:
A. Purchase stands: Get 3 Keel stands (20K capacity each, way overkill but I wanted them placed at transom, plus 10, and plus 18), two flat top stands for the transom, two SB4 stands for stability of bow (again overkill for 270). Also necessary, two Brownell BL3 hydraulic boat lifts at 2,500# capacity each (not overkill!),
B. Lower tongue stand of trailer to lift rear of trailer and boat transom up. You only get a few inches but its a start.
C. Use BL3 lifts to raise transom further while also lifting the keel stand and two flat top transom stands in 4 inch increments. One interesting thing, I think you could actually raise the boat with just the Brownell Keel stand if you had a cheater bar extension. I didnt do that and worked with the hydraulic lifts in 4 inch increments - Raise with BL3, tighten keel stand and repeat.
D. After transom was off the trailer bunks maybe 2 or 3 inches, repositioned the BL3 lifts to "sling" position mid ship port and starboard and repeated the 4 inch increments until the bow was off the trailer by 3-4 inches. I used a Keel stand here two while I had two weeks to schedule with the trailer guys to get the trailer in for Electric over Hydraulic upgrade. e. Final lift day I pulled the trailer out from under - Ugghh -this is the day to have big cahones because you have to rely on the BL3 hydraulic stands to carry the bow weight while you pull the trailer out after removing the temporarily placed bow keel stand. The wife didnt like this part.......And she wasnt under the boat I was! Regardless the BL3's worked flawlessly.
F-After trailer pulled out from under, reposition bow keel stand at Sling position on keel and add third Keel stand to take the total weight of the boat while also taking the pressure off the BL3 lifts. Final stands placed are those two sailboat stands at the bow but I don't think they are necessary with the two side transom stands I used at the stern.
___________________
Now, if I can just get the bottom stripped and painted in the next two weeks before the trailer comes back! I am using chemical stripper because that dust in NASTY and I dont want it all over the shop. You still need to do a light sanding after 2 or 3 chemical strips but its not near as dusty. I posted a few photos of this progress too. Using the Aqua Strip from West Marine. Its mediocre at best but it does start to have an impact after 2nd or third application. See photos. My only question now is whether to jettison the ablative paint I already bought and get the teflon impregnated hard bottom paint for a "carolina" bottom finish.

Pic=Boat off the trailer but resting on keel stand
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Pic=Trailer now removed from under boat
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Few other pics of stand positions
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IMG_1375.JPG
And finally, a pic of the bottom paint stripping with the paste from West Marine:
P1010006.JPG
 
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Following up on the bottom paint job. I finally got some time to continue the stripping and sanding. 50% of the bottom is completed and ready for barrier coat. Here is some photos of the current progress. I will use Petit protect 2 part epoxy for barrier coat before I put on final bottom paint (I am likely to jettison the petit Hydrocoat abblative in leu of Interlux VC 17). the PITA about the VC 17 is the Petit protect needs sanded prior to putting on the VC 17 and I can tell you, with 50% of the bottom still in need of sanding, my arms are about to fall off. I am sanding with 60 grit foam pads and wiping down with Acetone (wearing a 1/2 face respirator). I should have the Petit Protect done by mid-March. After that's done, the final bottom paint will go FAST! Springs a comin!
Here I am applying plastic over the gobbed on stripper
IMG_1420.JPG
Just before I remove plastic after 4 hours to strip w/ putty knife
IMG_1422.JPG
Final sanded surface cleaned with Acetone
IMG_1450.JPG
Here's the Petit 2 part epoxy I will use
pettit-protect.jpg
And here's the Interlux VC17 that burnishes to a fine finish
Interlux VC 17.jpg
Alas, while I have been focused on the paint, I havent charged the batteries. Will likely need to replace with Blue tops.
 
Finally got the base Epoxy coat installed. What a job this has been. Here are some pics of the epoxy coat below. I am not going to use the VC17 because its needing to be burnished with 300-500 grit and thats just a bridge too far. I will put the ablative Petit Hydrocoat on instead. Non-volatile and water based. Much easier install and cleanup. Plus cheaper. Some things to know:
  • I sanded down to original epoxy coat installed by dealer. Completely removed the old ablative with chemical stripper and hand wet sanding with 6o grit. The original epoxy coat was still in good shape but there were some scratches along the hull that the new epoxy filled nicely. Because I had the original epoxy coat there, I only installed two additional overcoats and likely didnt get to the recommended 12mil thickness. But, combined with the old coat, I guarantee I have more than 12Mils on the bottom now. I only a bit less than 1 gallon and will have enough remaining to finish the transom.

  • This stuff is THICK. Use an electric drill with stir wand to thoroughly mix. Mix, mix, and mix some more. Wear a respirator with VOC cannisters as this stuff gives off fumes. However, the fumes dissipate fast. I installed at 75 degrees in an open bay garage. Not too bad.

  • I used a "typical" hardware store roller with thick foam pad. Buy lots of foam rollers, you'll need them. Stay away from cardboard underoll. They wont last. Even the more expensive non-cardboard ones fell apart after 1/2 hull coating.
If I had to do again..........I wouldn't. Well, maybe I still would. I am pretty stubborn. It does make a HUGE mess and is toxic stuff so safety is important. I figure it cost me $1,000 (Epoxy and Hydrocoat -2 gallons each, stripper etc) and saved me $4-5,000 (maybe more). But, it also took 4 months of weekends. I wouldnt dare attempt in the northwest outside over the winter. That would be just too brutal. As it was, having inside my garage at my leisure still was no fun. I will, after I get the hydrocoat on, post a few final photos. Any suggestions on where to get replacement water line decals would be appreciated. I need to get the old decals off as they are beat up completely. Plus need to address a few more hull scratches above the water line. Hope this helps others planning on doing this job.

Orange Peel.jpg
This photo shows the orange peel surface of the original epoxy coating.

IMG_1780.JPG
Thick stuff. Mixes in 3 parts Epoxy to 1 part hardener
IMG_1781.JPG
Mix, then mix some more
Foam Roller.jpg
Get a ton of foam roller pads
1 coat Petit Protect.jpg
1 coat installed
Epoxy Paint close up.jpg
Closeup up of second coat completed and 14 hours into dry time.
 

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Here's a few pics of the decal/stripes needing replaced. Any suggestions on where to get original OEM equivalent would be great!

Border Trim.jpg
Decals are in bad shape.
Gelcoat gouges.jpg
Not too bad from a distance.
Gelcoat gouges  closeup.jpg
Close up its awful and needs repair. This and the stripes are the next job!
 
Here's a few pics of the decal/stripes needing replaced. Any suggestions on where to get original OEM equivalent would be great!

View attachment 105502
Decals are in bad shape.
View attachment 105503
Not too bad from a distance.
View attachment 105504
Close up its awful and needs repair. This and the stripes are the next job!
Try hullstripes.com. That’s where I got mine. They are pretty close to exact and customer service is really good with helping you
 
Not sure this is the right thread but going to try here. Just bought a used 1997 270SE. It needs work including bottom paint and real good compound rubout and wax (ill send pics once I start the process). Its in my garage on a trailer (EZ Loader tandem 2006 with disc's on both axles) that also needs some work. Over the winter here in the NW I will do the bottom paint (pettit hydrocoat which other threads have indicated is stock) and take the trailer in to be addressed by qualified tech (maybe adding electric over hydraulic brakes jettisoning the Surge if I can). Here is my question - Its about blocking. I plan to use several Brownell stands. Two at the stern, two keel stands, and two near the forward strap lift location. Some other treads indicate the forward lift location but that's not actually where the stringer seems to be. Tapping the sides indicates a denser thud about 18 inches? forward of the lift location. I am sure that location is based on overall weight distribution and not the stringer location. Does it matter? I plan to lift the stern off the trailer with the Brownell Stands with cushioned tops (these are 20K capacity and way more than needed). I have enough room to slide them under the transom and staying off the trailer. For the forward points, I bought two Brownell BL3 boat jacks to lift forward location off trailer while I pull the trailer out from under and then will place two keel stands (one forward of engines under fuel tank on the keel and one about 10 feet forward of that) as well as set two additional brownell stands under the chines near that forward lift location and lower the pressure off the BL3 jacks. Of course the stands will be chained as well. Garage is concrete floor (steel reinforced 8 inch think so I am sure it can take the weight. Any comments would be appreciated.


FYI, you do not have a 1997 270SE, it was just a 270 in 1997. If you have an SE model it will be a 1998 or a 1999.

If the boat has two square four deck hatches it is a 270 if it has one for deck hatch that will be the two years of the SE model. Read the first post in this thread for more details.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/mid-90s-270-sundancer-thread.936/
 
Here's a few pics of the decal/stripes needing replaced. Any suggestions on where to get original OEM equivalent would be great!

View attachment 105502
Decals are in bad shape.
View attachment 105503
Not too bad from a distance.
View attachment 105504
Close up its awful and needs repair. This and the stripes are the next job!

I found a local shop that sells automotive type pinstriping and sourced the decals I wanted for boot stripe from them. I just bought a 100 foot roll. I changed out all the striping from the navy and gold to black and silver. I then replaced the Sundancer son logo with the black bubble block Sundancer text. It looked amazing, and people thought the boat what is much newer.
 
Thanks for the stripe suggestions. I will look into hull stripes at hullstripes.com.

Regarding SE vs not SE. I'll actually edit that first post above where I referenced it once and remove it. However, I'm not sure how much credence to put into the "SE". Its like the "SRX" on the pachanga engine badging. I asked an old timer at Mercury marine once what the SRX meant on my twin 350 mag carb hats on my Pachanga 270. His response "it meant nothing - its a sales gimmick searay came up with to sell boats".
 
Thanks for the stripe suggestions. I will look into hull stripes at hullstripes.com.

Regarding SE vs not SE. I'll actually edit that first post above where I referenced it once and remove it. However, I'm not sure how much credence to put into the "SE". Its like the "SRX" on the pachanga engine badging. I asked an old timer at Mercury marine once what the SRX meant on my twin 350 mag carb hats on my Pachanga 270. His response "it meant nothing - its a sales gimmick searay came up with to sell boats".

Did you read the first post in this thread? It explains the whole SE thing? The SE was made to be a cheaper boat when the new version 270 came out.
 
So the bottom paint and the boot stripes are complete. Posting some photos that may help others. The real slick tool to remove the old stripes is a "whizzy wheel" decal remover. Below are a few pics. I got it on Amazon. I would buy 2 or more as the 1 I bought I had to really stretch to get the whole job done. Also, another lesson learned, dont put new stripes on until old ones are off. I kept the thinner upper stripes on thinking I needed a guide. But, I purchased 1/4" and 1/2" spacer tape from Hullstripes which didnt require to keep the old ones in place as a template. All in all, really pleased with the stripes. I upgraded to the premium stripes for a few bucks more. ow to go enjoy the boat. This winter I will tackle the for deck hatch dry rot with Injectadeck. More on that later.

Whizzy in action.jpg Gelcoat repair.jpg New Stripes.jpg Stripe description.jpg IMG_2346.JPG IMG_2344.JPG
 
We just purchased a 97 270 with a 7.4 w/ B3 at the end of September. She has 330 hrs on the main engine and 144 hrs on the Genset. We have had her out twice now and can't wait for next season.

I do have a question about the prop. Is this some type of coating that has been applied to them or growth residue?
 

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Its hard to tell from the one photo. I assume its a stainless steel Prop (maybe take a photo of the prop markings as well as a few more of the prop). It somewhat appears someone painted the prop and that's the paint and under priming pealing off.
 
I have a few more in my phone. Definitely looks like a stainless prop to me. I sprayed some starbrite hull cleaner on it and used a plastic scraper to get some of it off.
 

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Yea, that's definitely Stainless and clearly an OEM prop. As I noted above, I think that prop has been "worked" and surfaced (electro-chemical?) by someone or a shop in the past. Not sure why you would add paint or chemical to the surface of the prop other than to inhibit its dissimilar nature with the huge aluminum sink called a bravo three. But, I that idea wouldnt work unless you surfaced inside and out. Never seen anything like that before. Look closely all over the prop once you've cleaned it good to see if there are any cracks. Typically you might pay for a lab finished or worked prop if its been damaged in the past. Slight damages tho will result in vibrations and you notice that.
 
Yea, that's definitely Stainless and clearly an OEM prop. As I noted above, I think that prop has been "worked" and surfaced (electro-chemical?) by someone or a shop in the past. Not sure why you would add paint or chemical to the surface of the prop other than to inhibit its dissimilar nature with the huge aluminum sink called a bravo three. But, I that idea wouldnt work unless you surfaced inside and out. Never seen anything like that before. Look closely all over the prop once you've cleaned it good to see if there are any cracks. Typically you might pay for a lab finished or worked prop if its been damaged in the past. Slight damages tho will result in vibrations and you notice that.
Same props I have on my 97 290. Bravo 3. Mine were painted before I got it. What makes you think his have been worked?
I'll probably end up polishing mine. I trailer.

IMG_20200719_145351.jpg


IMG_20210220_113627.jpg
 
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