Nav and anchor light fuses in 89 340da

Ky Tundra

Member
Sep 5, 2017
92
Kentucky
Boat Info
1989 Sundancer 340
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruisers with v-drives
Anyone know which one it is? There is the small fuse panel on the starboard side at the helm but it isn't labeled and I can't find a diagram.
I'm not getting power at the fixtures. Anyone else dealt w this problem?
Thanks for the help.
 
My old boat was a 300 from that era and none of the fuses were labeled when I first got that boat either.
The quick way to check for a bad fuse is to test all the fuses with a 12 volt test light to make sure you have power on both sides of the fuses. If you find one that doesn't, then that is likely the culprit.
I would also test the switch at the helm to make sure you have power going in to it, and then in each of the positions when you switch the anchor or running lights on.
If you don't have power going in to that switch and all of your fuses are good then make sure the connector that gives power to that switch is good.
The more likely problem is a loose or bad connection on the connector providing power to that helm switch. Fuses don't normally blow unless there is a problem, and while I have had switches go bad, crappy tired connections are far more common.
Sounds like a lot, but all of those checks should only take a few minutes under the dash with a test light.
The long term solution, figuring out what each fuse is for, is more time consuming and goes smoother with an assistant. I did it on my old boat and made a diagram for future reference.
The last thing you want to check is the fuse block itself. the little clips that hold the glass fuses are riveted in and get loose over time.
The fuse blocks are cheap and swapping them out is easy, goes fast, and is a great preventative maintenance project.
 
My old boat was a 300 from that era and none of the fuses were labeled when I first got that boat either.
The quick way to check for a bad fuse is to test all the fuses with a 12 volt test light to make sure you have power on both sides of the fuses. If you find one that doesn't, then that is likely the culprit.
I would also test the switch at the helm to make sure you have power going in to it, and then in each of the positions when you switch the anchor or running lights on.
If you don't have power going in to that switch and all of your fuses are good then make sure the connector that gives power to that switch is good.
The more likely problem is a loose or bad connection on the connector providing power to that helm switch. Fuses don't normally blow unless there is a problem, and while I have had switches go bad, crappy tired connections are far more common.
Sounds like a lot, but all of those checks should only take a few minutes under the dash with a test light.
The long term solution, figuring out what each fuse is for, is more time consuming and goes smoother with an assistant. I did it on my old boat and made a diagram for future reference.
The last thing you want to check is the fuse block itself. the little clips that hold the glass fuses are riveted in and get loose over time.
The fuse blocks are cheap and swapping them out is easy, goes fast, and is a great preventative maintenance project.
Thanks for the detailed response. I'll check it out.
 

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