Need help identifying this drain hose fitting

Rotzy

New Member
Sep 14, 2020
22
RI
Boat Info
260 Sundancer, 2002
Engines
MerCruiser 5.0MPI, Bravo III
Hello everyone.

I need help identifying this fitting and determining where I can purchase new ones. I believe it's called a "hose cuff." It attaches to the 1" drain hose and the shower sump output hose, allowing them to be connected to a barbed fitting. I'm in the process of rerouting my sink drain and shower sump overboard through new thru-hulls. The shower sump output travels behind the starboard mid berth wall and into the holding tank in the engine bay. I want to sever this hose behind the mid berth and send it overboard, thus the need for a new fitting.

Thank you.

2002 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
 

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in the description it says:

Description
These cuffs allow you to use hose clamps on the corrugated Shields spiral reinforced Vacuum Hoses. For a watertight seal you need to apply a PVC cement sealing compound. This makes a permanent seal - with the cuff, effectively, becoming the end of the hose.
 
in the description it says:

Description
These cuffs allow you to use hose clamps on the corrugated Shields spiral reinforced Vacuum Hoses. For a watertight seal you need to apply a PVC cement sealing compound. This makes a permanent seal - with the cuff, effectively, becoming the end of the hose.

Thanks, but it still doesn't appear to be available in 1", which is what the OD of the tubing is.
 
You must have the grey water option - a very rare option. It's likely the boat was used in an area that prohibited overboard discharge of grey water. I take it the boat is no longer being used in an area like that?

Did you try putting the hose directly on the barb? It looks like it will fit. In the parts manual, the hose is listed as 5/8" and the barb is listed as 5/8".

You said: "I'm in the process of rerouting my sink drain and shower sump overboard through new thru-hulls" (plural "thru-hulls). So I assume you are adding a direct overboard for the sink by itself? You should know that because the sink is not very high above the waterline (and the placement of the thru-hull) that it may drain slower than currently. You might be better off just letting the sink to continue to drain to the sump under the steps.
 
Typical household dishwasher discharge hose and cuff.

I'm checking those now, but I'm a bit concerned that they do not seem to screw onto the corrugated tube but rather they seem to clamp on. The tubing is not that strong and I fear clamping alone will crush it.

You must have the grey water option - a very rare option. It's likely the boat was used in an area that prohibited overboard discharge of grey water. I take it the boat is no longer being used in an area like that?

Did you try putting the hose directly on the barb? It looks like it will fit. In the parts manual, the hose is listed as 5/8" and the barb is listed as 5/8".

You said: "I'm in the process of rerouting my sink drain and shower sump overboard through new thru-hulls" (plural "thru-hulls). So I assume you are adding a direct overboard for the sink by itself? You should know that because the sink is not very high above the waterline (and the placement of the thru-hull) that it may drain slower than currently. You might be better off just letting the sink to continue to drain to the sump under the steps.

I do indeed have the grey water option. All liquid, except for the sink on deck, goes to the shower sump and then into the holding tank. We do not operate the boat in prohibited areas, so I would like to discharge overboard.

I have not attempted to clamp the corrugated tubing directly to a thru-hull fitting. I was in the process of determine what size thru-hull fittings to purchase when I discovered these unique attachments. I'm not worried about the galley sink referenced in the picture, as I will simply run a new drain line of my choosing from there to the new thru-hull (I only used that location for the picture because it was the easiest to get to). What I am worried about is the shower sump discharge line. I do not want to run a new line (I cannot reach into a significant amount of the area to secure a new line) and therefore would like to sever the line and attach it from there to the thru-hull.
 
I think you're doing more work than you need to. Just leave everything plumbed the way it is in the cabin. Even the galley sink - no reason to change what's already there. Just do as you are planning on doing and re-route the hose that's in the bilge from the black water tank to a thru-hull and call it a day. Be sure to use an upward loop at the thru-hull to help eliminate water coming back in.

On the plus side - the bilge is a real treat to work in - it has tons of space in it.
 
I think you're doing more work than you need to. Just leave everything plumbed the way it is in the cabin. Even the galley sink - no reason to change what's already there. Just do as you are planning on doing and re-route the hose that's in the bilge from the black water tank to a thru-hull and call it a day. Be sure to use an upward loop at the thru-hull to help eliminate water coming back in.

On the plus side - the bilge is a real treat to work in - it has tons of space in it.

I have considered doing exactly what you suggest, and still might. But, here's the long story on why I want the sink to drain overboard:

1. The previous owner replaced the shower sump with a Rule 98B a couple years ago. Since then, I've been having repetitive problems with the pump air locking and the box overflowing. This has caused me to become so paranoid, we really don't use any inside fixtures. Every time someone so much as washes their hands in the cabin, I immediately pull the trash can and inspect the sump. To their credit, Rule has admitted that the early version of the 98B had an issue with air lock and sent me a redesigned box which I'll be installing this winter. Not surprisingly, I'm still stressed about it!

2. I'm in the process of installing heat and AC in the factory location (behind the starboard wall of the mid berth). I want the condensate drain to run to the shower sump, but I have no more available inputs.

And your correct, the engine compartment is wonderful to work in. Me and my heater fit wonderfully in there! But, I intend to install the shower sump and A/C thru-hull fittings next to the step drain (again, behind the starboard wall of the mid berth).

No matter what I choose, I still need to figure out a solution for attaching a 1" corrugated hose to a thru-hull barb.
 
98B and stress... sure, understood. I think you'll learn to trust it though - its just going to take a few outings to get to that point. I can't say that I had ever not trusted mine.

AC condensate... either make your own hole in the box and use a bulkhead fitting or get a properly sized T fitting and T into one of the existing drain lines. Some of the Rule boxes even have a built-in fitting at the box that allows for multiple hoses to be attached to one hole.

a solution for attaching a 1" corrugated hose to a thru-hull barb... you'll know more once you measure the ID or try slipping it onto that sink barb. Worst case, use a barb-to-barb adapter to size up from the existing hose to the size you need.

Here's a little project you'll probably find useful... The existing bilge lighting is only barely useful at night. I added LED strip lighting around the underside of the hatch. It made it like daylight down there. For fun, I even used a simple proximity switch so that whenever the hatch was opened, the lights would automatically come on (and still able to be shut-off by the main switch). I did a little Youtube video re-cap of it, but I don't recall, offhand, what I titled the thread. You might be able to find it by searching using my name.
 
a solution for attaching a 1" corrugated hose to a thru-hull barb... you'll know more once you measure the ID or try slipping it onto that sink barb. Worst case, use a barb-to-barb adapter to size up from the existing hose to the size you need.

I'm still a little concerned with clamping a corrugated hose directly to a barbed thru-hull and expecting it to not leak...?
 
It's not under any type of pressure. 99% of the time it will be fine as is. You could always use some plumber's putty to help.
 
It's not under any type of pressure. 99% of the time it will be fine as is. You could always use some plumber's putty to help.

I was thinking: I could also disconnect it from the holding tank, add the thru-hull in the engine bay and connect it there. That eliminates any cutting of the tube. Not an easy place to drill the hole (between the tank and the wall separating the mid berth from the engine compartment) but it solves the issue without finding a new fitting.
 
I was thinking: I could also disconnect it from the holding tank, add the thru-hull in the engine bay and connect it there. That eliminates any cutting of the tube. Not an easy place to drill the hole (between the tank and the wall separating the mid berth from the engine compartment) but it solves the issue without finding a new fitting.
I actually thought that was the plan all along (to add the thru-hull in the bilge hull side)?
 
I actually thought that was the plan all along (to add the thru-hull in the bilge hull side)?
No, the original plan was to add it behind the starboard mid berth wall, next to where the existing step drain goes out. I was going to add this thru-hull and the one for the AC all in a line.
 
Rotzy - you are right not to attempt to directly clamp that Series 140 hose to a fitting. That hose must have a Cuff sealed onto it then the Cuff is clamped to the fitting. This may help -
http://marinehose.com/product/series-147-147w/
I understand the reasoning behind the "by the book" method and I'm not disagreeing with that. But sometimes, I think assessing the application can trump the "book". I'm not sure it would truly matter in this real world instance. It's all going downhill - let's face it, you could slip a 2" ID hose over that fitting and the sink would still drain properly without leaking.
 
I understand the reasoning behind the "by the book" method and I'm not disagreeing with that. But sometimes, I think assessing the application can trump the "book". I'm not sure it would truly matter in this real world instance. It's all going downhill - let's face it, you could slip a 2" ID hose over that fitting and the sink would still drain properly without leaking.

But, one of the outputs I am sending overboard is the shower sump output. That is not a gravity drain.
 

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