New Port Battery still requires crossover switch to start.

When you use the emergency crossover, it uses a solenoid to join power at the individual port and strb solenoids in the engine room. The power is not joined at the dash switches. Since the port motor starts with the crossover (e switch), this indicates the dash switches are most likely ok. But you can switch them anyway to rule that out since it doesn't cost anything and can be done pretty quick. Although my first approach would be to clean ALL connections from the batteries to the starter, real good. Disconnect the port battery bank positive side going to the port motor. Working from the starter, take the connections apart and clean the posts and wires really good. Also check that the wire ends are clean and not corroded. If they are, put new ends on or have them put on if you do not have the proper tools. A small battery operated drill or impact tool with a wire brush works well. After each connection, re attach the battery bank and try to start motor. Keep moving towards the battery connection following the wire until everything has been cleaned. You are now assured you have good-clean connections throughout the power route. It sounds to me that you have an interruption of power somewhere. Either due to a poor (dirty or loose) connection or a bad component. After everything is clean you can start testing each component. My bet is the starter solenoid. It is either dirty or bad. After you get the port motor straight, clean up the contacts on the stbd side as well. This way you know you have good clean connections on both starting systems.
When we got our boat it was 10 years old. One of the first things I did was to inspect all the power connections and clean them up. Some were really clean and others - the ones that were hard to get to - were quite dirty. A dirty or loose non conductive connection will give you intermittent problems that can be quite aggravating. Cleaning things up, although they look good from the outside, gives me piece of mind that the connections are solid. Good luck.
 
So I go to the boat today and the Port starts without the crossover for the first time this season. All I did was actuate the Port bank solenoid about 20 times the previous visit and install a new battery charger Pronautic 40Amp 3 bank. The batteries all read 13.4 V and 600+ CCA before changing the charger. Stereo switch would pop off intermittantly in the salon (Port bank) with the stereo on and the engine not running. Actuated the solenoid another 20 times. Started again without crossover. I know I should change the solenoid, but I don't know if I can squeeze in between the headers and deck (and squeeze back out). Scrawny mechanic said call back after the 4th... Removing header on a 20 year old boat requires a beefy snubby allen wrench and extension pipe, plus new gasket after sanding off the old... I know I should go through all the connections, but I just did last year when the solenoid was sticky the first time. Considering a second battery in Parallel on the Port side to try to get by until the mechanic can change the solenoid...
 
you should not need to operate the emergency crossover to start the engines with good batteries and good connections
 
You can keep applying the band aids to try n get by. . . . BUT, the end result is the solenoid needs replaced as it will eventually stop all together (and at the most inconvenient time) no matter how many amps you throw at it. You cleaned all the connections last year, so changing it out shouldn't be that much more difficult, but I am not familiar with your setup. I am a firm believer that repairs need to be repaired properly. Short cuts only cause short falls. Maybe try n locate another scrawny mechanic or competent boating buddy that can help out.
 
Had problem with one starter similar to you. It finally stopped working. I had it rebuilt and the problem went away. Also the cranking speed of the engine sounded about double that of the other engine. I had the other starter rebuilt also and both engines cranked at the same speed. Cost to rebuild startee including new solenoid and Bendix was $175 each. I changed the starters myself. One was easy the other was difficult dur to location.
 
OK I changed the Port battery Solenoid in the e cabinet on the bulkhead between the engines. The engine starts normally without the emergency crossover, and I can play loud music, etc. from my port electrical bank without resetting fuses. Two bolts removed the fuel water separator assembly on the port header and gave me about 6 inches more clearance which was barely enough. I am 5'10, 220 lbs. and 60 years old. I had to sit on one foot flat against the bilge (for about an hour) between the engines while jamming the other knee up against the bulkhead - I still couldnt get my head under the deck so i had to lean back and look and then lean forward and reach working half blind. Of course the port battery solenoid is much more difficult to access than the starboard (Port bottom of cabinet). You have to remove 8 wires and keep them straight (3/8" and 1/2"), unscrew two difficult to access screws into the bulkhead and unbolt a rigid brass plate that secures it to the other solenoid. This will give you about a foot of play to try to remove the fuse connections on the solenoid. These are tiny (smaller than 20 gage) snap in electrical fittings that need to be popped out from the standard automotive fuse side through the solenoid block with a eyeglass screwdriver (Two fuses per solenoid). They do not come with the new solenoid and are soft metal easy to mash and must be reused. Replacements are hard to find (auto ones are bigger), and I reccommend inserting them and the fuses into the solenoid prior to install with a wire lead and then just properly connecting the leads in your cabinet, as the conditions are not conducive to fine electrical work. If you screw up these connectors, dont insert and snap them in properly, or dont get a reliable connection with the fuse you are going to be doing this over again. Also, you cannot attach many of the old wires to the new solenoid as you remove the old solenoid because you cannot screw the new solenoid to the bulkhead with the wires attached, plus many of these are heavy battery wires that hold the new solenoid too close to the one you are trying to remove.. If you need to be reminded to first unplug the shore power and disconnect the batteries please do not attempt. Thanks again everyone for all the advice!
 
Welcome to the standard of most boat repairs. One needs to be able to twist and bend into positions never before thought of. Glad to hear you got things in order.
 
Welcome to the standard of most boat repairs. One needs to be able to twist and bend into positions never before thought of. Glad to hear you got things in order.
OK I changed the Port battery Solenoid in the e cabinet on the bulkhead between the engines. The engine starts normally without the emergency crossover, and I can play loud music, etc. from my port electrical bank without resetting fuses. Two bolts removed the fuel water separator assembly on the port header and gave me about 6 inches more clearance which was barely enough. I am 5'10, 220 lbs. and 60 years old. I had to sit on one foot flat against the bilge (for about an hour) between the engines while jamming the other knee up against the bulkhead - I still couldnt get my head under the deck so i had to lean back and look and then lean forward and reach working half blind. Of course the port battery solenoid is much more difficult to access than the starboard (Port bottom of cabinet). You have to remove 8 wires and keep them straight (3/8" and 1/2"), unscrew two difficult to access screws into the bulkhead and unbolt a rigid brass plate that secures it to the other solenoid. This will give you about a foot of play to try to remove the fuse connections on the solenoid. These are tiny (smaller than 20 gage) snap in electrical fittings that need to be popped out from the standard automotive fuse side through the solenoid block with a eyeglass screwdriver (Two fuses per solenoid). They do not come with the new solenoid and are soft metal easy to mash and must be reused. Replacements are hard to find (auto ones are bigger), and I reccommend inserting them and the fuses into the solenoid prior to install with a wire lead and then just properly connecting the leads in your cabinet, as the conditions are not conducive to fine electrical work. If you screw up these connectors, dont insert and snap them in properly, or dont get a reliable connection with the fuse you are going to be doing this over again. Also, you cannot attach many of the old wires to the new solenoid as you remove the old solenoid because you cannot screw the new solenoid to the bulkhead with the wires attached, plus many of these are heavy battery wires that hold the new solenoid too close to the one you are trying to remove.. If you need to be reminded to first unplug the shore power and disconnect the batteries please do not attempt. Thanks again everyone for all the advice!
OK I see it has been one year and, once again, I need to use the emergency crossover to start the Port side. I am also having trouble with my Starboard DC Rocker Solenoid switch in my galley control panel. I think it is probably a fuse or bad connection on the port Solenoid, and it has to be the rocker switch because current is passing through whether it is on or off... Frustrating.
 

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