New to boating.

Here's a picture of how it looked when I bought it.

1995 Sea Ray 175BR.jpg
 
Just an update.

I did get a different trailer to use for the time being. Fixed it up, repaired what was needed, all new LED lights. The noise in the outdrive ended up being the upper gears. I'm overhauling the upper then deciding what to do about the lower after pulling the bearing carrier.
 
You'll need a seal kit such as https://www.ebay.com/itm/352639346753?epid=1123349222&hash=item521af16841:g:lYAAAOSw5cRZG1ef and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084D4KSNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and, depending on their condition, you may need the four bearings. Assuming you do need bearings, you'll open yourself for quite the project, as there's certain tools for setting-up the gear locations that you'll need to obtain. It can be done without them if you're good with a depth gauge for shimming the height of the vertical shaft. If you've ever set up rear-end gears, you'll appreciate what needs to take place.
 
The gears are already on the way. Top bearing and race are junk so I assume the others are as well.

I've got the gasket set, 31-35990A1, 09097/09196 in my Ebay watch list. I'm on the hunt for 2 cheap sets of Timken 386A/382A. Shims "if needed" will come after I set the gear pre-load and depths. There is an assortment of alpha tools on FB marketplace which I've already contacted the seller about. If I only rebuild the upper it would be cheaper for me to just purchase the two shimming tools (91-60526T and 91-60523) About the only thing I need to scrounge is a slide hammer and jaws for removing the bearing cups.

I've also set up plenty of rear axles over the years. (8", 9" 8.8" etc)

In addition I already have two Spicer 5-1306X u-joints, both Sierra bellows kits, Sierra greasable gimbal bearing, quicksilver gasket set 27-94996Q2, gimbal bearing remover with alignment shaft and what not else. Plenty of more things still to get.
 
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Try this for pulling the top bearing cup: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

I was fortunate enough with mine to get away with just replacing the one top bearing. The boat looked to have sat for a long time (four years +) with just a bit of condensation going after them. Time will tell...

It's sad to see these old boats getting neglected. With the occasional oil change, these things seem to last forever. It's neglect that kills them.

I spent one year doing what seemed to be nothing but rebuilding outdrives. We had a low water year at the local reservoir. Lower units and basalt don't mix. Pictures of the innards would be great. Have fun!
 
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Or it didn't happen.... (Don't know why the pictures rotated)
 

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On our fresh water lower units, we could usually get the carrier to break loose by pulling the prop, removing the thrust washer, slide the prop back on, put the rear thrust washer and nut a few turns, then use the prop as a slide hammer. If that doesn't do it, then lay a couple of metal bars between the front of the prop and rear of the housing, snug down the prop nut (that in itself may be all it takes), apply some heat to the housing, and tighten the nut down a bit more. If it won't easily come loose this way, then you'll need the puller.
 
So the prop shaft will directly come out after the carrier is removed? That appears to be the only way your methods will work. If so I will try putting metal plates between prop and the lower units housing, putting the brass washer and nut back on and tightening the prop shaft nut.
 
So the prop shaft will directly come out after the carrier is removed? That appears to be the only way your methods will work. If so I will try putting metal plates between prop and the lower units housing, putting the brass washer and nut back on and tightening the prop shaft nut.
Yep, the prop shaft is captured by the reverse/rear gear, so pulling the shaft backwards is applying force directly to the carrier. See the following exploded view. #51 is the prop shaft proper, and it'll pull against #52 Reverse Gear, which is nested into the bearing carrier.
Alpha Lower Unit Prop Shaft.jpg
 
I couldn't see the prop shaft detail clear enough both in manual #14 and online.

Prop carrier puller was a no go. (Fresh water boat.) I'll try the metal plates between housing and forward side of prop tomorrow. The carrier has been sprayed with PB blaster. If that doesn't work I'll get a two jaw puller and try it that way. Worse comes to worse, oxy propane it is. Rather not as the paint is decent 'ish on the lower.
 
I couldn't see the prop shaft detail clear enough both in manual #14 and online.

Prop carrier puller was a no go. (Fresh water boat.) I'll try the metal plates between housing and forward side of prop tomorrow. The carrier has been sprayed with PB blaster. If that doesn't work I'll get a two jaw puller and try it that way. Worse comes to worse, oxy propane it is. Rather not as the paint is decent 'ish on the lower.
No worries about the paint. You shouldn't get the outdrive any hotter than what you can touch. That won't be hot enough to damage the paint. Anything hotter and you start to melt seals and o-rings. All you're looking to do is get the aluminum housing to expand a bit. Don't go overboard with the home remedies. If this doesn't work, you may have to break down and purchase the proper puller like this. They ain't cheep, but sometimes it's the only way out. Others have had some success by pressurizing the lower unit through the oil hole. Youtube is full of info/ideas. In any case, a little heat will help with any scheme.
 
No go so far with either method. The lower carrier is currently soaking with PB blaster. I do have a slide hammer puller coming so there's that method to fall back on.

I pressed the pinion/bearing assembly apart last night. If the 386A/382A bearings were for more of a low speed application I would reuse them. I'd rather not chance it so I'm in for the long dollar approach.

Today I power washed the case then threw it in the utility tub with hot water and dish soap. Finished it up with a spritz or two of brake clean. Wiped it out and hit it with the air hose. The upper case got slammed with bits from the gear set. not pretty but more than serviceable. I can see now the lower will have to get the same treatment as the upper did. Maybe not so much as full replacement of the gears and bearings like the upper unit but a proper clean out will be necessary.

In for a penny, in for a pound as always.
 
Nathan, Got it! Soak, heat, apply pressure and repeat the process over several days.

All the gears look fantastic in the lower unit. The only issue with the lower I can 'feel' is the carrier mounted reverse gear bearing has a roughness to it. I haven't washed it in mineral spirits yet but I'm pretty sure the bearing is a goner. the needle bearing at the prop end of the carrier housing feels fine. I'll look at the prop shaft later and see if there are any marks on the bearing surface.

I removed the Gimbal bearing today. The bearing removed was one of those later SKF lubed for life bearings yet the transom housing still had a grease fitting in it, and what's up with being so lazy you can't even remove the old grease between the bearing and seal before installing the new bearing? Hacks the lot of 'em.
 
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So far I have $339.49 "all in" for all the special tools necessary to repair my stern drive. This includes Gimbal bearing puller and alignment tool with installer. Both shimming tools for the upper, slide hammer set, the upper retainer tool and the lower carrier removal tool.

I still need to get two Timken 386A bearings, the upper seal kit and a new impeller. Those will have to wait until next month. A bit tapped out for now...
 
So far I have $339.49 "all in" for all the special tools necessary to repair my stern drive. This includes Gimbal bearing puller and alignment tool with installer. Both shimming tools for the upper, slide hammer set, the upper retainer tool and the lower carrier removal tool.

I still need to get two Timken 386A bearings, the upper seal kit and a new impeller. Those will have to wait until next month. A bit tapped out for now...
Brother, you are all in! Seriously, you might consider outdrive repair as a side hustle now that you have all the specialty tools and, especially, the ability to use them properly. There's still plenty of those Alpha outdrives running around out there.
 
I guess so.

I bought a used hydraulic shop press. Just couldn't bring myself to keep borrowing someone else's equipment.

Just showing what you can do with minimal money.

Specialized tools?

HCqSE6U.jpg


o8w8sId.jpg


The reverse gear bearing in the lower unit ended up being bad. It's a Fafnir 209K.
 
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I guess so.

I bought a used hydraulic shop press. Just couldn't bring myself to keep borrowing someone else's equipment.

Just showing what you can do with minimal money.

Specialized tools?

HCqSE6U.jpg


o8w8sId.jpg


The reverse gear bearing in the lower unit ended up being bad. It's a Fafnir 209K.
As my dad would say, "Any port in a storm". I use sockets all the time as "specialty" press tools. Heat those aluminum pieces a bit prior to pressing the bearings. 200°F will make a huge difference when installing bearings, to the point that they sometimes drop in on their own. 200's not hot enough to cause any problems with any rubber parts, so no worries.
 

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