Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Quiet few weeks for our old girls, eh? Does that mean ice has melted, spring has sprung, and everybody's out on the water instead of doing maintenance? NICE!

dwna1a--hope you're mended completely....you've had more than your share of rough stuff for quite a while, now!

....how in the heck do you disassemble the thingy (you know me, always using technical terms) to replace the fuel pump filter cartridge? Fuel/water separator wasn't too bad, oil filter sucked as usual but was doable after fishing the wrench back out with a coat hanger....but that last one is really pesky. I Googled and YouTubed and couldn't find a diagram or tutorial anywhere--everything was focused on the fuel/water separator.

If I'm following your thingy reference, there's a bolt on the bottom of the bowl. Back the bolt out and you'll be able to replace the filter.

This is what we had done before I inquired here: the nut came off easily, but the bolt didn't drop out and the bowl didn't spin easily; we weren't sure how much muscle to apply to either one.

Are you talking about Fram’s mounted inline just outside of each tank. Cartridge is FRAM 1110PL or equivalent?

That’s what my 87 300 Sundancer had.

If so, there is a hex head on top, right in the middle. Back it out while holding the canister to keep it from falling or spilling fuel.

Those also uses 2 “O” rings each that come with the filters. The large thin one is easier to see than the smaller (ring size) one that you have to pull out and replace.

This is what we (First Mate, anyway) attempted this weekend. Had a ratcheting wrench but still couldn't really get a grab, much less a turn, because of the metal bracket the orange fixture is bolted into from above, and because of the same bolt receptor spot on the opposite side. Photo is from the starboard setup.

Couldn't fit a socket wrench to grab it from the top, either.

Anybody have other tricks to share?

FuelFilter_Tank_Starboard1.jpg
 
That exactly what my old boat had. I guess I must have been lucky that I never had a problem getting a ratcheting box wrench on it. If I remember correctly, once I cracked it and backed it out just a little bit I was able to do it the rest of the way by hand.
Might be the angle of the picture but if there is something interfering with getting a box on it, it almost looks like you have enough room to get an open end on it. If so, just be careful not to round it out.
It shouldn’t be gorilla tight, but it’s still tight enough that a box end would be my first choice.
The hex head actually stays in place once loose and you lower the housing.
Also, once off, don’t forget to pull out the old O ring and gasket. The replacement cartridge comes with new ones.
 
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Has anyone placed a amp on their 300WE and where did you put it?
 
I am in the process of adding a amp to my new system and I plan on mounting it on starboard and mounting under the cushion area behind the 3 drawers which is now used for spare parts and tools. It's the closest to where my head unit is located. I dont anticipate any exceptional heat build up, but if I experience any down the road I will vent that space towards the base of the seating area.
 
I looked there and in that small cabinet under the liquor storage area. Nick from BOE shot me a note advising that as long as it's mounted vertical it would have good ventilation
 
Give it a shot.
 
The fun is just beginning, routing wires, getting it connected to Th MFD but it will be worth it.
 
There was a member here years ago, I think his screen name was 88Sundancer300 or something like that. He had a monster audio system on his 300 DA with a few write ups on it. They may even be in the beginning of this topic page, try a search.
 
viewing threads from other users, heat should not be a problem, I'am always cautious of electrical components that may generate heat in closed environments. I've built stereo applications in cars/trucks and incorporated a 12v cooling fan set to a sensor at a reasonable range to turn the fan on for cross ventilation.
 
I think I'm going to go with that cabinet area so I was concerned things might shift

Thank you and I will see if I can find the info
 
I need to check back in here a lot more often! Scorpio, thanks for the reference to #2830 with the 48 inch Plasteak bow pulpit. I considering that and like the looks. I'm getting too old to hobble up there and my son is gone and graduated from college, so he's no help anymore! My wife is great at lowering or running the boat when I need to retrieve or drop anchor, but I need to put her on a weight program so she can lift more! OR, I could just put in a windlass!

I was going to change all 4 fuel/separator ilters, but I haven't had a chance. The first trip out we mangled an impellor on the Starboard side. It was just starting it's second year so we must have run into something that chewed it up. I'm going to reverse flush that engine when I get time in a week or so. I found two vanes still in the water pump, but the other 5 are out there somewhere....

I'm just now hitting 1,000 hours on my engines, but I'm drooling over the upgrade to the Vortek heads! Reading all of those just make me want to get it done, but it runs so well now I can't really justify the expense. I'm sure it's going to cost a chunk even if I do most of the work myself. I've heard reports from a number of folks that have done it and all were pleased with the results. I would lean toward a reverse rotation engine, does it matter which one?
 
Sundancer I do believe it makes a difference but I might be wrong. As for the hours, mine are creeping up on 2100hrs. My neighbor is a gear head, he always laughs and says I'm just now breaking them in. Mine are FWC tho.
 
Sundancer, look for the impeller vanes in the input side of the oil cooler, they should be stuck to the face of it as it is only 1 inch in diameter and has small holes for coolant to pass through. You can pull the supply line off the inside of the transom and pull the other end off the T-stat housing and back flush it. They may be stuck in the copper tube or rubber hose from the leg to the transom.
 
Scorpio, That's where I'm headed when I get time! LOL!! I've heard that and I'm HOPING to find them all! That will make me breath easier.

dwna1a, I've heard the same thing that well cared for engines will easily go 2,000 hours. I'm halfway there and have another 30 years to go I guess!! Shoot, they'll live longer than I will!!

Has anybody figured out how to put the new ELCI Breaker into the old Sea Ray panels? All of the Marinas are switching over to this GFI Circuit to prevent stray current getting into the water and back to the ground. I just found out about it a few minutes ago and I'm looking at Blue Sea breakers, but I haven't figured it out yet. Just wondering!
 
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Scorpio, That where I'm headed when I get time! LOL!! I've heard that and I'm HOPING to find them all! That will make be breath easier.

dwna1a, I've heard the same thing that well cared for engines will easily go 2,000 hours. I'm halfway there and have another 30 years to go I guess!! Shoot, they'll live longer than I will!!

Has anybody figured out how to put the new ELCI Breaker into the old Sea Ray panels? All of the Marinas are switching over to this GFI Circuit to prevent stray current getting into the water and back to the ground. I just found out about it a few minutes ago and I'm looking at Blue Sea breakers, but I haven't figured it out yet. Just wondering!
I'l be interested to know about the breaker issue as well. Our marina is getting new power pedestals this year and may be GFI.
 
OK, what is the trick to getting the ORIGINAL hoses off the front of the motor? I'm trying to backflush the oil cooler on my port engine. I unscrewed the hose clamp and I can't even budge the hose! Holy smokes, 30 years of heat have GLUED the hose to the metal. I tried a screwdriver very carefully on the one edge I could get to but didn't want to end up getting a new hose. Of course, after 30 years, maybe I should! If I go that far, I might as well get new metal to attach the new hoses too! Like a nice long block! LOL...

I can see the supply line from the Alpha and I have the drive off. I just figured I'd remove the front of it and catch everything that came out on a white sheet. I can't get the $*#(%# Hose off!!! Do I use a heat gun? Dremel? TORCH! LOL! I know, I'd be dead but it's tempting!

I guess I need a radiator hose pick removal tool? Off to the auto store in the AM!! Anybody recommend a particular brand or type?
 
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I always use a thin flat blade screwdriver and insert it between the barb and the hose and work it around the circumfeence of the hose and keep at it til it gets loose.
 
I found a dental pick and I'm on my way out to have a go at it!! Fingers crossed!
 
Got it off, flushed it with a hose and didn't find a single piece of rubber. I don't know if that's good or bad. I was hoping all 5 of the missing vanes would flush out and I could relax. I guess I'll button it up and take it out and see what happens. I ran the hose full force down the tub and it didn't even back up the hose. I guess nothing is block the oil cooler.
 

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