Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Defender said:
Anybody had an issue with an engine RPM’s fluctuating over 3000 RPM?

I’ve been experiencing a problem this year with keeping the engines synced and looking for some ideas on a resolution. Bringing both engines up evenly the sync indicator is centered up to around 3,200 – 3400 rpm, then the port engine starts to drop 200 – 400 rpm and fluctuates up and down (mostly down).

The problem at first could be corrected by “jerking” the throttle up then down allthoug this method of correction is no longer working. The reduced rpm can also be recognized audibly so I have to assume it is not a faulty Sync indicator.

Fuel filters were changed at the beginning of the season.

Anyone have similar problems / solutions?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, my stbd eng was varying just like you described.
I replaced the MAP sensor, took 5 min.,
Has not done it again since then.

I got an aftermarket MAP by Wells at Salvo Auto Parts store for $40. Cheaper than a merc. product.
Works fine now.

Good luck.

Lee
 
SeaHarley said:
Yes, my stbd eng was varying just like you described.
I replaced the MAP sensor, took 5 min.,
Has not done it again since then.

I got an aftermarket MAP by Wells at Salvo Auto Parts store for $40. Cheaper than a merc. product.
Works fine now.

Good luck.

Lee
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info I am not believing this is a fuel issue and thought I shuold check the ignition cap and rotor first.

Where is the MAP sensor located, and what does it look like? I am assuming it is on the manifold somewhere. Also do you have a part number?

Thanks

John
 
We just bought a 2000 310DA with 350MAG V-Drives (sold a 1999 270DA). Have a few issues that based on the experience level on here, I am guessing I will get better answers than anywhere else!

Starboard motor doesn't seem to get WOT - only 4000rpm, while port motor can get 4400rpm. Fuel tanks were full of almost two year old gas, which I am burning up. Then thinking of new fuel filters> any other thoughts?

Power vent window is missing a little broken piece, anyone have experience having one replaced?

I'll stop with those as they are bothering me the most right now....

And now, after browsing this forum for a couple of weeks, I need to figure out how to add my signature...
 
I replaced the MAP sensor, took 5 min.,
Has not done it again since then.

Hey all just some feedback on my issue with Port engine losing RPM / sync. Today I replaced the Port fuel filter and then the ignition cap a router for both engines. By the condition of the components it was time. Filled up with gas and the boat ran great!!!!

Also swapped the Port MAP sensor with the Starboard, just incase that was the problem, If so I would assume I would start to have problems with the Starboard engine now.

We’ll have to see.

Thanks SeaHarley
 
Are you shure the gauge is good, have you confirm with a laser tach?
 
stephane said:
Are you shure the gauge is good, have you confirm with a laser tach?
Click to expand...

No I did not have the tachometer or sync gauge checked because I could definitely hear the difference when the Port engine dropped RPM’s. There is that smooth sound when both engines are synced. Glad to get her back performing correctly, again by the condition of the components, it was time for a tune up.

We bought the boat used in 2006 so wasn’t sure when these maintenance items were replaced last.

Thanks for the feed back / interest.

 
Defender said:
I replaced the MAP sensor, took 5 min.,
Has not done it again since then.

Hey all just some feedback on my issue with Port engine losing RPM / sync. Today I replaced the Port fuel filter and then the ignition cap a router for both engines. By the condition of the components it was time. Filled up with gas and the boat ran great!!!!

Also swapped the Port MAP sensor with the Starboard, just incase that was the problem, If so I would assume I would start to have problems with the Starboard engine now.

We’ll have to see.

Thanks SeaHarley
Click to expand...

Glad it worked out for you.

You're welcome.
Lee
 
1st post here. I am getting a 1998 310DA. The boat has nearly 700 hours total with a T5.0/alpha IO setup. The motors have been replaced and have ~50 hours on them. The outdrives were found to be fine at the time of the motor replacements. The replacements were done ~9 hours and (1) season apart. The boat is a freshwater boat and has new bottom paint.

Here is my question - If I do not pull the boat out of the water for a full blown survey, is there much use in having any inspection at all? Is my risk of major catastrophe - rot, blistering, etc great with an 11 year old Sea Ray?

Thanks,
Sean
 
sean257 said:
1st post here. I am getting a 1998 310DA. The boat has nearly 700 hours total with a T5.0/alpha IO setup. The motors have been replaced and have ~50 hours on them. The outdrives were found to be fine at the time of the motor replacements. The replacements were done ~9 hours and (1) season apart. The boat is a freshwater boat and has new bottom paint.

Here is my question - If I do not pull the boat out of the water for a full blown survey, is there much use in having any inspection at all? Is my risk of major catastrophe - rot, blistering, etc great with an 11 year old Sea Ray?

Thanks,
Sean
Click to expand...

I would have it pulled to inspect bottom paint and or blistering for sure. It is also a good time to check the condition of the zincs. Better to know now than later.

I am surprised the engines have been replaced unless they were abused in some way.

I have the same boat with 450hrs on the original engines. 5.7 engines with Alpha Drives. Mine seems a little underpowered at times, especially if the bottom gets somewhat fouled. I had a diver clean it today and I could get 35 mph at WOT, Before cleaning, I was lucky to get on plane at all. This bottom fouling happened in the course of about two weeks of non use, even with Ablative bottom paint.
 
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I'm narrowing down my search for a 2000 -2001 310. What can I expect for GPH at cruise.
thanks,Dave
 
I am considering purchasing a dinghy for the family and would be interested in hearing what people with the (98-02) 310 are using for a mounting system.

Any recommendations would be much appreciated.
 
We have the Weaver Davit system that mounts to the swim platform and tubes of the dinghy. We love it, but I would probably get something that mounts or connects directly to the fiberglass in the dinghy rather than the tubes. with the changing temperatures, the tube pressure goes up and down and that effects how the dinghy rides while connected.
 
Any tips on getting to the fuel/water separator filters? Starboard side isn't too bad, but the port side looks like it might be challenging. Is it possible to squeeze yourself into the transom so they are in front of you, or do most people replace them laying down and working from above?

Thanks.
 
Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread Bilge Hatch Gaskets

On my main hatch that raises to access the engines there is a rubber gasket all the way around the hatch.

However, on the port and starboard long decks that cover the batteries (starboard) and HW/Holding tank (Port), there is no gasket material.

I am trying to diagnose an air leak issue witht the Boatsafe Heater doing its job and am thinking air might be leaking through these side decks. I would assume that there should be some sort of gasket there. My parts manual list no gaskets anywhere.

Interested in what your boat has. Mine might have decayed and simply removed by PO. It only makes sense to me that if the main hatch has a seal, then the side hatches should as well.

I can find no info on how these decks where gasketed, etc.
 
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Uplate said:
Thanks for the reply. As the Original owner, I doubt it was removed without your knowledge.
Click to expand...


I have a 1998 310DA All three of my hatches have seals. Am sure of this because the looking to replace the one on the port side as that hatch gets all the foot-traffic and is somewhat un-even.

Mike
 
go-hokies said:
I have a 1998 310DA All three of my hatches have seals. Am sure of this because the looking to replace the one on the port side as that hatch gets all the foot-traffic and is somewhat un-even.

Mike
Click to expand...

Ah Ha! I thought I saw some old residue when I pulled my port hatch to bypass the HW tank last year. Is it a rubber gasket? I thought of going to Home Depot and getting some sticky back foam stuff to lay in there. Probably not an elegant solution though.

I do have a little rock and roll on that hatch as well when you walk across it. You can feel that it is not perfectly seated. the gasket would likely correct this.

I may call my dealer to see if I can get the parts. I could probably get them myself if I knew what I was looking for.

Thanks for the Heads Up!
 
I just bought a 1998 310 this summer and love it. Good luck with her.
 
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