Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

Yup, you got the idea. The middle L would need to be wide enough to allow for thru-bolts (not too close to the edge of the SB) yet still have enough surface area for support. Possibly a larger L... you could always trim the vertical section so it's not so long.

Personally, I'd go with fiberglass of PVC - just to avoid possible scratching. But functionally, they would all work.

I was thinking about the aluminum scratching as well.

I think i am going to go with some 2"x2"x1/8" aluminum angle from Grainger (only $11.50 for a 4' piece) and the cap the ends with some rubber or vinyl caps:
https://www.amazon.com/URBEST®10-Sh...7&sr=1-3-dd5817a1-1ba7-46c2-8996-f96e7b0f409c

I'll give this a go and report back.

Thanks again for your input.
 
Yup, you got the idea. The middle L would need to be wide enough to allow for thru-bolts (not too close to the edge of the SB) yet still have enough surface area for support. Possibly a larger L... you could always trim the vertical section so it's not so long.

Personally, I'd go with fiberglass of PVC - just to avoid possible scratching. But functionally, they would all work.
What about just running scrap seaboard ribs in the same fashion. Countersink stainless screws.
 
What about just running scrap seaboard ribs in the same fashion. Countersink stainless screws.
They would certainly make it better - but still quite bendy. Where a strip would be handy, though is the spot where the two pieces meet. Rather than getting a larger L, use a strip of SB, say 3" wide, and sandwich that in the middle of the main SB piece and the L... giving a nice lip for the other SB piece to sit on while still allowing the L to back far enough from the edge.

Screws are fine - thru-bolts are just better long term.
 
They would certainly make it better - but still quite bendy. Where a strip would be handy, though is the spot where the two pieces meet. Rather than getting a larger L, use a strip of SB, say 3" wide, and sandwich that in the middle of the main SB piece and the L... giving a nice lip for the other SB piece to sit on while still allowing the L to back far enough from the edge.

Screws are fine - thru-bolts are just better long term.

Something like Option #2?
IMG_4033.jpg
 
Looking at option #1... move the middle L to the left so that it is about 1/2" to the left of the joint (maybe flush would work). Cut a strip of SB 2" to 3" wide and put it between the L and SB... it will extend past the joint and under the other SB. It doesn't need to extend past the joint very far - an inch is plenty.
 
Stiffened it up pretty good. Definitely usable now. Just need to by the vinyl end caps for the L Angle.

still might upgrade to the 3/4 Starboard A/S for these to pieces eventually but will try this out a few times on the water...

Thanks for all your input...
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Looks good! If you added one more piece at the aft end, I would have to think that that would make it so solid that you wouldn't need to think about re-doing it?

Another way to handle the "scratching" issue... Cut the ends back at least 45* or 60*. Then, smooth the new "corner" so it's nicely rounded instead of 45* or 30*. Buy small diameter, vinyl tubing. Split lengthwise and glue (adhesive caulk) it onto the entire edge. Tape it in place till it dries overnight.

You can get vinyl caps for the bolt ends... or just use more vinyl tubing... or even acorn nuts.
 
Actually the place it is still deflecting the most is on the front piece at the joint. I think due to the orientation of the L.

There are two reasons I am still thinking about eventually moving to the 3/4”. 1. Stiffer without using L angle. 2. With the 1/2”, they are a little recessed from the main body fiberglass (Where the seat rests when installed) With the 3/4” it would stand a little proud. If it was a little proud, it would protect the fiberglass from ware.

Pretty happy for now. Excited to get the other two pieces fabricated and give it a whirl on the water
 
I see what you're saying about the middle L - you could re-drill the holes in the L and move the L further forward so there isn't as much leverage on the L from the other piece of stbd. There also may be a tiny bit of movement/flex at the screw head. You could try pan head screws with a fender washer to spread the load on the topside.
 
Hey all,

Electrical question here. My stern 12V receptacle is not working. Per the wiring diagram, the 12V receptacle is the #8 15 Amp fuse. Is this the fuse for the 12V receptacle at the helm, stern, both? If this is just for the helm, where is the fuse for the stern 12v receptacle? I did test with a meter and no power is coming to the receptacle.

Thanks in advance...
 
Ordered my 2020 SPX 190 today! Excited. First boat. Had a question about the radio. I have the fusion radio with the four speakers. Not excited about the sound. What model fusion is in it? Is it something I can add An amp and a sub to easily? Also is there any benefit to just putting better speakers in?

thanks! This thread is awesome.
 
Ordered my 2020 SPX 190 today! Excited. First boat. Had a question about the radio. I have the fusion radio with the four speakers. Not excited about the sound. What model fusion is in it? Is it something I can add An amp and a sub to easily? Also is there any benefit to just putting better speakers in?

thanks! This thread is awesome.
Check the pictures for the upgrade on SR's website - is it the same head unit as you have? If so, yes, you can do additions for sure. If not... well... this isn't really my forte. HOWEVER, why not just order the upgraded sound system with better speakers, amp and sub? If you just ordered it, there is time to make changes.
 
Check the pictures for the upgrade on SR's website - is it the same head unit as you have? If so, yes, you can do additions for sure. If not... well... this isn't really my forte. HOWEVER, why not just order the upgraded sound system with better speakers, amp and sub? If you just ordered it, there is time to make changes.

we are having the boat brought from another dealership. Already built and have a trip we are taking it on in July. I was just hoping someone here added a 10” sub to the mix and if that made a good difference and how much of a job it is with that head unit. Thanks though.
 
we are having the boat brought from another dealership. Already built and have a trip we are taking it on in July. I was just hoping someone here added a 10” sub to the mix and if that made a good difference and how much of a job it is with that head unit. Thanks though.
Gotcha. The word "ordered" made me think it was going to be built for you. I've heard Sea Rays with and without the upgraded sound system and... there is a HUGE difference! When you're picking up the boat, ask your dealer about it - they can at least tell you about it in terms of using the parts the factory would have.
 
Gotcha. The word "ordered" made me think it was going to be built for you. I've heard Sea Rays with and without the upgraded sound system and... there is a HUGE difference! When you're picking up the boat, ask your dealer about it - they can at least tell you about it in terms of using the parts the factory would have.

yeah it’s 1800$ and it looks like it simply adds a 5 channel amp and a sub? That’s why I was wondering if there are built in pre amp outs on the head unit and I can just get a 5 channel amp and sub on my own. Or a four channel amp and a powered sub.
 
The Premier upgrade also includes upgrading the existing speakers. It's a great system, but also keep in mind you're paying not only for all the extra hardware components and wires, but also the labor. That said, I wouldn't doubt you could build a system for less money, especially if you can do the install yourself, including cutting the hole for the subwoofer (look at your parts diagram for location... download it from SR's website if you need) and running the wires around to the other side of the boat.

It appears the same head unit is used with the upgraded system.
 
The Premier upgrade also includes upgrading the existing speakers. It's a great system, but also keep in mind you're paying not only for all the extra hardware components and wires, but also the labor. That said, I wouldn't doubt you could build a system for less money, especially if you can do the install yourself, including cutting the hole for the subwoofer (look at your parts diagram for location... download it from SR's website if you need) and running the wires around to the other side of the boat.

It appears the same head unit is used with the upgraded system.
Awesome. Thanks for the info.
 
We have the "standard" system. Never even used it yet except to see if it works. We are usually swimming of having family time thus a radio is not needed.

At any rate, looking at the bottom of the radio, there are a bunch of extra wires hanging there. My guess is that you could probably drill holes for the extra components and hooking them up would not be much trouble.
 
We have the "standard" system. Never even used it yet except to see if it works. We are usually swimming of having family time thus a radio is not needed.

At any rate, looking at the bottom of the radio, there are a bunch of extra wires hanging there. My guess is that you could probably drill holes for the extra components and hooking them up would not be much trouble.
Yeah, I found out the model number and got the wiring diagram. I went ahead and ordered an amp to see if it helps and then a sub if it doesn’t. ;)

thanks
 
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2016 SPX 210 OB...anything I should be aware of or known issues with a 2016 boat? VERY clean for a used boat. Just doing my HW as this was the first production year for this model and I know SR has made a few changes between then and now (i.e. change to starboard seating, hinges on the aft bench cooler top, change to Fusion stereo). I'm just as happy to hear what you love too! Thanks!
 

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