Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

[BusterDouglas]

Without looking, I'm not sure. But the best thing would be to talk with Nautilus.

Anyone on here install these smart tabs on the 190SPX and have a picture they can share? Im not sure they will fit based on the design of the hull in the back

 

[GypsmJim]

Your prop is an easy and (relatively) low cost repair. A Vengeance is a Black Max replacement and will provide only minimal improvement. An Enertia is truly the way to go.

After owning a dozen boats and currently owning a SPX 190, I would have to say that Smart Tabs would be a waste of money. That hull performs awesomely well and doesn't need any improvement.

Before you buy a new prop, get the WOT rpms and go from there. You want it to just hit the top end spec. You might need to drop 1" in pitch to achieve that. The regular Enertia has a multitude of options, more than many other props. If you can hit it, the 200# skiier won't be a problem.

If in the end you decide on tabs, be very careful and do you homework. You will need to drill 16 holes in your transom, so you need to seal them up right or you will be sorry. Regardless, I don't think they will fit.

 

[BusterDouglas]

Your prop is an easy and (relatively) low cost repair. A Vengeance is a Black Max replacement and will provide only minimal improvement. An Enertia is truly the way to go.

After owning a dozen boats and currently owning a SPX 190, I would have to say that Smart Tabs would be a waste of money. That hull performs awesomely well and doesn't need any improvement.

Before you buy a new prop, get the WOT rpms and go from there. You want it to just hit the top end spec. You might need to drop 1" in pitch to achieve that. The regular Enertia has a multitude of options, more than many other props. If you can hit it, the 200# skiier won't be a problem.

If in the end you decide on tabs, be very careful and do you homework. You will need to drill 16 holes in your transom, so you need to seal them up right or you will be sorry. Regardless, I don't think they will fit.

Thanks Jim, I wasnt too keen on drilling holes in the transom TBH. I never had significant issues with bow rise. How can I get accurate WOT with this damaged prop? They want $150 CAD to repair it up here in Canada when I can get one off Amazon for $250. CAD. I am at a loss how to proceed. I can get a nicely used Enertia Eco for around $600USD so still weighing all options

 

[GypsmJim]

Thanks Jim, I wasnt too keen on drilling holes in the transom TBH. I never had significant issues with bow rise. How can I get accurate WOT with this damaged prop? They want $150 CAD to repair it up here in Canada when I can get one off Amazon for $250. CAD. I am at a loss how to proceed. I can get a nicely used Enertia Eco for around $600USD so still weighing all options

A repaired prop should be as good as new. Since you are going to replace it anyway, you might as well save some money. It will be a good spare.

Truthfully, it doesn't look that bad. You might not get 100% perfect rpms, but it might not be that far off. Certainly close enough to get the data you need.

New Enertias sell as low as $600 on EBay. Before you buy one you need to know what pitch to buy. Compared to a Black Max you might lose a tad rpms.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just as a side note, the Smart Tabs DO WORK fantastic. I've used them on numerous personal and family boats as well as customer's boats. They are a game changer. I'm not speaking from theory here - actual experience. However, anyone that has had experience with "real" trim tabs can speak from "theory" in regards to the Smart Tabs as they're very similar.

Now, whether someone wants to install them is of course their preference. And as far as drilling holes... it all depends on who does it. Done right, it will never cause a problem.

Buster, are you sure your engine is healthy? That motor/hull combo shouldn't have an issue pulling up a 200lb skier with the stock prop and no tabs. Cap/rotor would be good to look at as well as a compression test, if needed. BUT... once you get your prop fixed, go for a ride -- WOT and keep trimming up till speed no longer increases or the prop ventilates. That will now be your MAX RPM. That will tell you that the engine is healthy (for the most part, anyways).

FOR YOUR USE... you might want to do that with a couple people in the boat to simulate how you normally run the boat. THEN you can look at a different prop to make the numbers work. I suspect you're going to want to (again, FOR YOUR USE) drop down in a pitch a bit. In other words, you'll end up with a "watersports" prop that rips out of the hole and a "regular" prop for cruising around. You'll probably just use the watersports prop most of the time and manage your RPM's with the throttle, though.

 

[BusterDouglas]

Just as a side note, the Smart Tabs DO WORK fantastic. I've used them on numerous personal and family boats as well as customer's boats. They are a game changer. I'm not speaking from theory here - actual experience. However, anyone that has had experience with "real" trim tabs can speak from "theory" in regards to the Smart Tabs as they're very similar.

Now, whether someone wants to install them is of course their preference. And as far as drilling holes... it all depends on who does it. Done right, it will never cause a problem.

Buster, are you sure your engine is healthy? That motor/hull combo shouldn't have an issue pulling up a 200lb skier with the stock prop and no tabs. Cap/rotor would be good to look at as well as a compression test, if needed. BUT... once you get your prop fixed, go for a ride -- WOT and keep trimming up till speed no longer increases or the prop ventilates. That will now be your MAX RPM. That will tell you that the engine is healthy (for the most part, anyways).

FOR YOUR USE... you might want to do that with a couple people in the boat to simulate how you normally run the boat. THEN you can look at a different prop to make the numbers work. I suspect you're going to want to (again, FOR YOUR USE) drop down in a pitch a bit. In other words, you'll end up with a "watersports" prop that rips out of the hole and a "regular" prop for cruising around. You'll probably just use the watersports prop most of the time and manage your RPM's with the throttle, though.

TBH the 200 pounder is me and wife was driving the boat...lmao so that may not be an accurate measure.. I have had no problem pulling kids and wife up on skies and wakeboard at 150lbs. Thought a better hole shot prop will help wife get me up..hehehe thats sounds bad. I may just go with a new Black Max and keep things as is. Boat handles great and no concerns with compression issues. Boat has 60 hours on it.

 

[Lazy Daze]

TBH the 200 pounder is me and wife was driving the boat...lmao so that may not be an accurate measure.. I have had no problem pulling kids and wife up on skies and wakeboard at 150lbs. Thought a better hole shot prop will help wife get me up..hehehe thats sounds bad. I may just go with a new Black Max and keep things as is. Boat handles great and no concerns with compression issues. Boat has 60 hours on it.

Well, that could be the missing variable. If someone is driving the boat and is not very familiar with trim and throttle usage, it can make a HUGE difference. She could very well be a pro at throttle usage - I'm just making a generalization about inexperienced operators... whether male or female.

I think I mentioned this, but if not... in "my opinion" -- which is really not all that important -- I would start easy by just getting that prop reconditioned and see how things go. It's good to have a spare prop, anyways, should you decide to get a new one.

 

[BusterDouglas]

Well, that could be the missing variable. If someone is driving the boat and is not very familiar with trim and throttle usage, it can make a HUGE difference. She could very well be a pro at throttle usage - I'm just making a generalization about inexperienced operators... whether male or female.

I think I mentioned this, but if not... in "my opinion" -- which is really not all that important -- I would start easy by just getting that prop reconditioned and see how things go. It's good to have a spare prop, anyways, should you decide to get a new one.

Thank you for all your advice!

 

[GypsmJim]

A new Black Max is going to be a waste of money. It won't do anything that a rebuild won't accomplish. You won't see any improvement unless the problem was truly "operator error" and that gets resolved.

I guarantee you that you will be overjoyed with an Enertia. If you look at Mercury's Prop Catalog, it shows appropriate props for every category of boat. Yours is a fiberglass, v-hull, bow rider runabout, yada, yada. The one that fits all those categories is the Enertia, not the Eco. The other positive is that the former can be had in 1" pitch increments, so kit can be dialed in spot on. The Eco has limited sizes.

 

[paulswagelock]

Anyone know how I find out what gear ratio I have on my 2016 19SPX I/O with 4.3L MPI? Damaged my 14.5X19P Black Max and looking for a new prop SS. Dont actually know my WOT RPM and Top Speed and trying to use the https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca/propellers/selector/#!/step-one
I am assuming it is 1.62
Using for wake-boarding/water-skiing and want better gas mileage, so I am leaning towards the Enertia® ECO
I get different results based on gear ratio:
Alpha 1.81 Gear Ratio -3 Blade 16 X 21 RH (Black Max is 14.5 X21)
Alpha 1.62 Gear Ratio- 3 Blade 16 X 19 RH (Black Max is 14.5 X19)

You motor will never spin an enertia eco, it is way too much prop for your rig. Stick with the regular enertia.

 

[fg3]

Greetings folks - I started this thread 6 years ago but haven't been too active lately. I do still have my 19SPX though and have a question:

The 'graphics' on the boat have gotten pretty dinged up and faded through the years. I'm thinking I'd like to have them removed and replaced with something new. The problem is, I don't know what that would be. I thought perhaps vinyl like you'd use to wrap a car, but I'm questioning the durability of that.

Do any of you know all know what type of 'sticker' is used on the hulls of these boats and who/where could replace them?

Here's a pic of the boat when new, it's the brown/grey/black that I'd like to remove:

And then add some black vinyl (or whatever it is) to end up like this beauty:

I'll replace the canvas as well, 6 years baking in the CO sun has mine near end of life.

 

[GypsmJim]

Our 190 is a 2019 and it had no graphics that year. Our dealer said it looked like crap so he hired a local graphics company to custom make a design for all of these models. They are similar to older designs, but much nicer looking.

If you want the entire hull to be a different color, adding "tape" isn't the right way to go. You need to,paint it with Imron or some other high quality coating. Nevertheless, it won;t be as durable as the original gelcoat, so be prepared to do it over again after so many years.

 

[fg3]

Interesting. The graphics that are on my boat are definitely some type of sticker.

 

[techmitch]

Our 190 is a 2019 and it had no graphics that year. Our dealer said it looked like crap so he hired a local graphics company to custom make a design for all of these models. They are similar to older designs, but much nicer looking.

If you want the entire hull to be a different color, adding "tape" isn't the right way to go. You need to,paint it with Imron or some other high quality coating. Nevertheless, it won;t be as durable as the original gelcoat, so be prepared to do it over again after so many years.

Am I missing a pic?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Interesting. The graphics that are on my boat are definitely some type of sticker.

The tan part is gelcoat.

The grey/black part is a vinyl sticker. Pretty common. Yes, you could do a vinyl wrap - just be careful around a dock.

Personally, I really like the clean look like the newer boats. I think there's enough styling "built into" the hull that it looks good. To each his own, of course.

Suggestion... remove the stickers and live with it for a while. See how you like it.

If you've even just done very basic maintenance to your covers they shouldn't be bad. You may just need to clean them really well and re-treat with 303. Those covers should, and do, last a lot longer.

 

[GypsmJim]

Am I missing a pic?

I didn't post a pic originally. I was merely pointing out that local sign shops or boat detailers can make "stickers" to fit any boat.

 

[GypsmJim]

Suggestion... remove the stickers and live with it for a while. See how you like it.

.

A 6 year old boat is likely to have some gelcoat fading. My guess is that removing the stickers would leave some darker shiny spots behind. Might not look too good.

 

[Lazy Daze]

A 6 year old boat is likely to have some gelcoat fading. My guess is that removing the stickers would leave some darker shiny spots behind. Might not look too good.

Probably, at least to some extent. But it's kind of a moot point since the first step is to remove them. Once he removes them, he'll know for sure. It will blend over time, though. But he'll have to make that call as to whether he likes it or not.

 

[Moondoggie]

I was reading an article the other day on winterizing your boat. It mentioned that the new fuel systems do not require storage with a full tank of fuel due to the system does not allow moisture in like the systems of yesterday. I have a ‘18 SPX 210 with Merc 150. Do the new systems truly keep moisture from outside air condensing in your tank or just reduce it? Is a fuel water separator necessary?

 

[GypsmJim]

I was reading an article the other day on winterizing your boat. It mentioned that the new fuel systems do not require storage with a full tank of fuel due to the system does not allow moisture in like the systems of yesterday. I have a ‘18 SPX 210 with Merc 150. Do the new systems truly keep moisture from outside air condensing in your tank or just reduce it? Is a fuel water separator necessary?

I have kept all my tanks full even before they invented unleaded gas, which was many years before even ethanol was added. It's just what Grandpa always said to do. Back in those days we also added alcohol in the tanks over Winter. Funny how people don't remember that, or just never learned it in the first place.

Regardless, today a full tank is money in the bank. Who knows what next year will bring. It certainly won't be any better.

If a tank is sealed so no air can come in, the tank will collapse when the engine is run. Just how moisture laden was the air when the boat was last run?

SeaRay doesn't put fuel water separators on their SPX outboard models. I hope it isn't necessary, because if it was it would be a design flaw.