My boat as the perko brand and is different. But if you got to https://ownersclub.searay.com/ and sign up and register your engine serial numbers (or maybe it was the hull id) you can then get most of the manuals in pdf form. I use my parts manual all the time.....unfortunately.
Yep. Just replaced my shaft seals in February. They come with a spare. If you look between the boot and the transmission you may see another collar. In that collar is another seal that can be slid down into place after cutting out the old one. If that collar is not there, then this process has already been done (or maybe yours didn't come with a spare, but they usually do). If no spare, you'll have to have to pull the shafts in order to replace. Cost me about $4,000 after the dock haul and storage fees (that part was around $600 for a week of storage).
Go here and enter a motor serial number and you'll have pics and part numbers galore. https://www.mercruiserparts.com/
Agree with Kevin. I too use Seaflush. Though if the system is priming enough to pull the fluid, you can stick a hose sprayer on the end of one of the pipes. Shut off your sea cock, pull the hose from there and spray through all to ensure you flush all lines including the sea strainer. Then use Seaflush and pull some barnacle buster or the like into the system and let it sit for about an hour or more, then flush with freshwater again. I do this a few times a year.
Nice boat pic. What sun fly are you using?
Just curious...I had a similar, not the same issue....but have you done the basics for the fuel filters? Mine has a fuel/water separator and then a hard inline filter just before going into the generator. I'd replace both of those. And when you do, fill the fuel/water separator with SeaFoam so you can get a good cleaning through the carb and lines/valves too. Doing this fixed my problem, but mine would stay running, just ran like crap.
You may want try burping the coolant system by opening the bleeder valve. Skip to KevinC's post below for more detail. The tech said an air bubble can develop causing the overheat sensor to trip. He said 9 of 10 times when he gives that direction over the phone he does not hear back. I tried that first but it did not solve the issue. Good luck, we all need our AC for sure right now.
LOL ..yes the light! Good eye! Thanks for reminding me. I need to connect those with heatshrink connections properly. Also so far as running 12v to panel ..this is fine for now, but good idea. My boat stays in year round so if it’s not on the hook, it’s plugged in at the dock. I’m scrambling getting ready for an 18 day trip out coming up here next week, so I’m going with this for now
Changed my holding tank vent filter this weekend. I had heard these are nasty to change but literally took me 5 min and was not that bad at all. Here is a link to the filter I bought. Ran $45 bucks.
M Prod, thanks for the quick response. To take that pic I did not pull the head-unit. Pulled the circuit breaker panel and stuck my iPhone in the opening and started snapping pics until I got one that showed the RCAs. Question on placement of your Bluetooth Module/Dongle. Did you place it behind the head-unit/circuit breaker panel inside the cavity? Or did you run the aux cable outside and then attach? The Aux is on the head unit above the breaker panel not the unit above the galley? The Bluetooth adapter I have needs 12v so I need to figure out powering it. Ordered the RCA to 3.5mm adapter and plan on plugging in Friday evening for sound test. Plan is to get it working then figure out the cleanest permanent installation. Thanks in advance for any advice.
