Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Anyone have a recommendation for a dinghy davit for 2003.5 340?
 
I just had a 2008 model surveyed for possible purchase, pretty solid boat but surveyor recommending black water hose from toilet to vacuum generator be changed because of dry rot. Anyone tackled that job, either themselves or or had it done?
 
I just had a 2008 model surveyed for possible purchase, pretty solid boat but surveyor recommending black water hose from toilet to vacuum generator be changed because of dry rot. Anyone tackled that job, either themselves or or had it done?
I don't know about a 2008 model but on my 2003, there isn't enough room to go through the vanity, so pulling the toilet is best. Then you're replacing those seals too, which probably need it anyway if the black water hose needs replacing.
 
I just had a 2008 model surveyed for possible purchase, pretty solid boat but surveyor recommending black water hose from toilet to vacuum generator be changed because of dry rot. Anyone tackled that job, either themselves or or had it done?
I did it when I bought my 2005 340da in 2010. The boat came from NV so in the dry heat all the time and only had 50hrs on it so very little use so hose would not hold a vacuum for long. It was a 6 on a scale of 1-10. Toilet had to come out and I had to find a few access points. From what I can remember one is in the back of the cabinet under the stairs and the other is in the base of the cabinet on the port side rear bunk.
 
Hey Guys, I am having trouble with the Port engine starting (8.1). After about 5-8 tries with the rocker switch it will turn the starter on. I had read that it could be the solenoid that is under the plastic cover. I seen the solenoid next to the starter. Someone had mentioned its most likely the one under the cover. I had found this solenoid online and is this the correct one to get? My manuals did not have much information.

https://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-89-96158T-89-818864T-89-846070-Interwebz/dp/B01MA5KA8D
 
Not sure if that is the one. You may check to see that the connections are clean and tight. A little corrosion and/ or loose can often cause your symptoms.
 
Not sure if that is the one. You may check to see that the connections are clean and tight. A little corrosion and/ or loose can often cause your symptoms.
Problem solved. It was the rocker switch. Now the mission to find a 4 prong switch like was in there....Thanks
 
Problem solved. It was the rocker switch. Now the mission to find a 4 prong switch like was in there....Thanks

After it starts and runs does it start right up or does it have the same problems?

If it starts right up again then there may be a little corrosion from sitting. Then once freed up it is good again until it sits.

If it has the same problem restarting right away then it may be the switch.

-Kevin
 
Hey guys, Asking for a friend. He just sea trialed a 2006 340 with 8.1's and v-drives. His wot was only 34mph. This boat has the "fisherman pkg". Just wonder if maybe they propped that one different as its a fishing boat? The fisherman pkg eliminates the U shaped seating and adds dual transom doors and a bait station. Boat has under 200hrs. Thanks
 
Hey guys, Asking for a friend. He just sea trialed a 2006 340 with 8.1's and v-drives. His wot was only 34mph. This boat has the "fisherman pkg". Just wonder if maybe they propped that one different as its a fishing boat? The fisherman pkg eliminates the U shaped seating and adds dual transom doors and a bait station. Boat has under 200hrs. Thanks

I just bought an 04 340 with 8.1s v-drives with 600 hours on the engines - WOT @ 4400 RPM was 35.6 MPH during my sea trial
 
From Sea Ray Prop Chart
2004 340SDA, VD-8.1 S (T-370 PHP) MCM V-DR. INBOARDS 2.00:1
PROP, 18"X 21"X 4.85" "Z" RH PROP, Part #1752176
PROP, 18"X 21"X 4.85" "Z" LH, Part #1752175
4600 RPM @ WOT

Looks perfect....you sure the speed wasn't in knots ? Have heard the 34's with 8.1s can get around 40 MPH.
That would be about right. I have the 340 with 6.2's and I peak out at 35 to 36 mph
 
From Sea Ray Prop Chart
2004 340SDA, VD-8.1 S (T-370 PHP) MCM V-DR. INBOARDS 2.00:1
PROP, 18"X 21"X 4.85" "Z" RH PROP, Part #1752176
PROP, 18"X 21"X 4.85" "Z" LH, Part #1752175
4600 RPM @ WOT

Looks perfect....you sure the speed wasn't in knots ? Have heard the 34's with 8.1s can get around 40 MPH.
That would be about right. I have the 340 with 6.2's and I peak out at 35 to 36 mph
 
He said max rpm was 4k. The surveyor noted the port prop was 21.5 and starboard was 21. He also stated he surveyed the same year and model and it had the same props on. Would searay have put different props on?
 
Need help with my anchor. In the past I have changed out the solenoid and everything returned to full operation. Now the anchor light on the switch pad will not turn off and the anchor will only launch and not return. My mechanic checked the power readings and felt it was the solenoid again after only a year. I replaced the solenoid and no joy. The switch pad had some cosmetic issues so I replaced that too. Now with a new solenoid and switch pad nothing has changed??? The Anchor light on the pad shows the system is energized and won't turn off and anchor only launches. When I installed the new solenoid I jumped the wires to each side and windless retracts and launches the anchor. Stay safe, Dave
 
Need help with my anchor. In the past I have changed out the solenoid and everything returned to full operation. Now the anchor light on the switch pad will not turn off and the anchor will only launch and not return. My mechanic checked the power readings and felt it was the solenoid again after only a year. I replaced the solenoid and no joy. The switch pad had some cosmetic issues so I replaced that too. Now with a new solenoid and switch pad nothing has changed??? The Anchor light on the pad shows the system is energized and won't turn off and anchor only launches. When I installed the new solenoid I jumped the wires to each side and windless retracts and launches the anchor. Stay safe, Dave
I think your having early signs of eim module problems
 
Need help with my anchor. In the past I have changed out the solenoid and everything returned to full operation. Now the anchor light on the switch pad will not turn off and the anchor will only launch and not return. My mechanic checked the power readings and felt it was the solenoid again after only a year. I replaced the solenoid and no joy. The switch pad had some cosmetic issues so I replaced that too. Now with a new solenoid and switch pad nothing has changed??? The Anchor light on the pad shows the system is energized and won't turn off and anchor only launches. When I installed the new solenoid I jumped the wires to each side and windless retracts and launches the anchor. Stay safe, Dave

The windlass has two control elements: 1) the master control solenoid that function as the master on/off switch (wired to "anchor" control from EIM and 2) the control module (also referred to as a contactor or solenoid that is wired to the "up" and "down" controls from the EIM).

Do you know which of these was replaced or tested? The control module is what is wired to the forward EIM and I would want to test for voltage at this point to see if the switches are providing power via the EIM. If power is verified for up and down at the control module when the up/down buttons are pressed then the control module is indeed the problem. From the wiring diagram I believe the deck/foot switches are wired direct to the windlass motor via power supplied at the control and therefore remove the control module operations from the mix.

-Kevin
 
Here is the wiring diagram from Sea Ray for my 2004 340SDA:

upload_2020-9-8_13-58-17.png

The main disconnect solenoid is connected to the Aft EIM and in the engine compartment along with the breaker.

The control module is connected to the Fwd EIM and is located near the windlass in the anchor well.

-Kevin
 

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