Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Checked my schematics...if accurate, seems like i should have 535-14 (FWD Accy) and 536-14 (Accy 1) out of the forward EIM and 527-14 (Accy 2) out of the aft EIM. Looks like they had the 16 count crayola colors and not the 64 count crayola box, as all three wires are red/vio, as are many others. Looking forward to hunting down.

Thanks again!
 
TheBobC said:
Checked my schematics...if accurate, seems like i should have 535-14 (FWD Accy) and 536-14 (Accy 1) out of the forward EIM and 527-14 (Accy 2) out of the aft EIM. Looks like they had the 16 count crayola colors and not the 64 count crayola box, as all three wires are red/vio, as are many others. Looking forward to hunting down.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Marine electrical wiring colors are set forth by ABYC for standardization.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs

-Kevin
 
TheBobC said:
Checked my schematics...if accurate, seems like i should have 535-14 (FWD Accy) and 536-14 (Accy 1) out of the forward EIM and 527-14 (Accy 2) out of the aft EIM. Looks like they had the 16 count crayola colors and not the 64 count crayola box, as all three wires are red/vio, as are many others. Looking forward to hunting down.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
That sounds spot on, good luck.
 
For any others that come across this, it should be noted that those "extra circuit" wires (in my case) exit the bundle of wires coming out of the EIM separately, about half way down the 6" or so taped bundle at the EIM box. This was true of both the FWD and the AFT EIM.
 
So my 340 has been with me for a year. When I did the survey in October of 2019, we inspected the manifolds and found rust inside. Prior to survey the broker was reluctant to do anything more than idle the engines.
Then we did the survey and a mechanical inspection. Pressure test was good, no codes, great temps, and the engines ran solid. Below is what we found when we removed an elbow. We concluded that we saw surface rust and would revisit the issue in a year. We cleaned up the turbulator, put in new gaskets and buttoned it up.
Photo-Oct-23-11-28-13-AM.jpg
 
While I have done quite a bit of work on the boat over the last year, I have been using the heck out it.
Temperatures have been good and steady all year. But all the little things that the previous Owner said were solid really weren't. So I was prepared to replace the manifolds, and got the 8.1/496 kit from NuWave Marine on hand.
Spent the last week spraying PB Blaster on the exhaust manifold bolts every other night after work.
Ran the boat on Saturday with another follow up of PB Blaster (starting to like how that stuff smells when the engine heats it up...).
Showed up on Sunday, ready to do battle with broken bolts and stubborn gaskets.
Ran the engines again to warm them up. The thought is that the heated block and manifold will give up bolts with less drama.
Shut the engines down and pulled the first manifold off, and was shocked to see that all bolts came out no problem. In fact they looked perfect. Then I was further shocked to see that the manifold was in remarkable condition. Below is a photo of a typical manifold top and the manifold bottom. The bottom is one of the two middle cylinders which show more surface rust because they are directly below the turbulator; The outside cylinder runners were perfect black paint.
In some ways, the manifold top actually looked better than it had at survey!
2020-11-21-03.jpg

2020-11-21-05.jpg

So we pulled the rest of the elbows, and the manifolds on all the risers were in the same condition.
So the decision was to reinstall the old manifold. I did replace all the turbulators with new. Put everything back together. No leaks and the engines ran well. It was beer time!

Thoughts:
  • I wanted to post these pictures so that folks can see what good manifolds with life left in them look like. I will pull the risers again next year.
  • I have to think that applying PB Blaster and running the engines just before pulling the manifolds helped get the exhaust manifolds out with no drama (thanks for the suggestion, Strecker25!). I use this same process again.
  • The reason the manifolds looked worse a year ago is that the boat was not used much prior to being surveyed. These boats need to be used to keep them happy inside!
  • I am very glad I did this because now I have a proper first-hand benchmark of where these engines are. Over the last year, I have been into the prop and shaft systems, the transmission system, the cooling system, the fuel system, and now the exhaust system. Stuff will break and need to be addressed, but at least now I have a more complete picture of my systems.
  • Now I have to store all these boxes of manifolds at home! I think I will be on the lookout for desiccant bags to drop in the boxes after I spray them with corrosion inhibitor for prolonged storage.
Now on to that pesky Kohler generator!
 
Have one annoying problem and one much more than annoying problem hoping for some help on.

Annoying. I keep getting both a starboard and a port Engine Sensor Pitot Tube not working properly, See Dealer Soon error. It does set off a VesselView tone alarm. Everything I read say that is "not used" and not to worry about it, but the alarm keeps recurring every 5 mins or so.

Much more than annoying. Other than those two alarms, I also have a Fuel Sender 2 not working properly, See Dealer soon alarm. I will address that soon. The problem is I cannot get up on plane. I can get to about 2500 RPM, and then both engines cut back to 1700 to 1800 RPMs, and will not go above that point until I come off throttle for a bit. Then I can get back up to that same 2500, only to get cut back to the 1700 to 1800. I can put it in neutral and get up to 3300 RPM, until the normal engine overspeed kicks in. When this issue first started, I was getting a Cam/Crank sensor error on the port engine. Not knowing which was the problem, I replaced both, and that error went away. However, I am still unable to get above the 2500 RPM situation.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
TheBobC said:
Have one annoying problem and one much more than annoying problem hoping for some help on.

Annoying. I keep getting both a starboard and a port Engine Sensor Pitot Tube not working properly, See Dealer Soon error. It does set off a VesselView tone alarm. Everything I read say that is "not used" and not to worry about it, but the alarm keeps recurring every 5 mins or so.

Much more than annoying. Other than those two alarms, I also have a Fuel Sender 2 not working properly, See Dealer soon alarm. I will address that soon. The problem is I cannot get up on plane. I can get to about 2500 RPM, and then both engines cut back to 1700 to 1800 RPMs, and will not go above that point until I come off throttle for a bit. Then I can get back up to that same 2500, only to get cut back to the 1700 to 1800. I can put it in neutral and get up to 3300 RPM, until the normal engine overspeed kicks in. When this issue first started, I was getting a Cam/Crank sensor error on the port engine. Not knowing which was the problem, I replaced both, and that error went away. However, I am still unable to get above the 2500 RPM situation.

Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
I was getting a PITOT CKT LO error and also a Low Power warning on my port motor. This happened the middle of Oct 2 weeks before haul out and my mechanic fixed it by replacing the sensor. I have not gotten an invoice so I don't know which sensor he replaced but figured I would post to let you know that in my case the PITOT error and Low Power were related.
 
I will definitely read this entire thread but am hoping for some quick feedback. I'm looking at a 2007 340DA. I am being told that the stainless steel manifold have never been changed but were recently inspect by a mechanic and deemed OK, not requiring a change out. Did this model year come w/ SS manifolds and risers? Or would their existence indicate a change out at some point? Is it possible that originals on a seemingly clean and well maintained boat with 800 hours in brackish water would not be desperately overdue for this maintenence? Bonus question, what would the job cost, all in? Thanks!
 
Steveziv - Sounds like what we did. Back in 2014, we purchased our 2006 340 496mags with Br 3 drives. It had 795 hours on it with excellent compressions as well. At the end of last season we replaced the manifolds. I was told the manifolds appeared to be original. We took the risers off (Stainless that were OEM) and they were in extremely good condition. I am told the risers are usually good for 20 years, depending on PM. So far as cost, I did the replacement myself with a buddy. The manifolds were Mercruiser and were $450 a pair (new). Having them done by an Auth Mercury Dealer/Mechanic - my guess is $1500 to 1800 per motor. Another CSR member will probably have a better/closer cost.
 
Thanks for the info Korkie. I just spoke with a local mechanic that told me most of these engines are fresh water cooled, which came as a surprise to me.
 
Yes they are. I don't think I have ever seen an 8.1 / 496 that wasn't fresh water cooled. Meaning the blocks are fresh water system which is cooled by the raw water system. The one thing I had to do early in our ownership was to remove and clean the heat exchangers on both engines. They were both running at the high end of acceptable temps. When we cleaned them, they ran 8 degrees cooler. We love the 340, not too big and not too small. Fits our needs perfectly.
 
@steveziv This is more info than you asked for, but it should help others.

Korkie is spot on. Riser elbow is stainless, and exhaust manifold is cast iron. And your compression numbers are good.
I bought my boat a year ago and we figure that the manifolds were about a year old when I got the boat, so they are in great shape now.
When you replace the manifolds, make sure it is OEM Mercruiser. The OEM is coated on the inside and is a good quality cast iron. Given the labor costs, you will not want to do this again soon.
I ordered new manifolds from NuWave Marine in October, and they were sold as a kit (part no 710-8660178A02) that included the gaskets, turbulators, a sensor, and some hoses for $645.99 each. You will need 4.
I can't help you with install since I was going to do the work myself. Korkie's cost might be a low depending on where you are at and how motivated the mechanic is (I would budget $2k per motor here in WA state for parts and install).

Without an inspection, you are left with looking at temperatures to determine if they need immediate replacement, both at the gauge and with an infrared thermometer.
  • Gauges: At idle, engines should be around 161 according to the gauges at the helm. The temp should stay there while you are running on plane. Sometimes, the temperature rises a little as you come off plane (maybe to 165). The temperatures are never exactly the same temperature as one another, but they are close (within a couple of degrees). If the temperatures are warmer than that, it could be a number of things that need to be looked at.
  • Infrared thermometer: The other temperatures you can get is by using an infrared thermometer to see if there are hot spots on the manifolds. There will be variances. My waters are the Puget Sound; Our waters are year round at 50-55 degrees, so your numbers may vary a little from mine. I saw spots as high as 120 and as low as 105, depending on the exact spot I aim at. Regardless, I can put my hand on the top of the manifold for a while without getting burned (it will be warmer on the bottom). If you can't do that, they need to be replaced.
I paid for a mechanical inspection (in addition to the survey), and was glad I did. We pulled one elbow off the manifolds to visually inspect the condition; It is not hard to pull the elbows. See pictures in post 2727 above for photos; the top photo is with the elbow off, looking down into the manifold that was still on the block; that manifold has life still left in it.

Hope this helps, and good luck!
 
just wanted to post this in case it helps someone. my a/c pump has a space at the top that u can see the motor spinning inside it. problem is that sometimes i get sea water in there when priming the pump in the spring. or any other time it gets hauled. the seawater can get in there and rust the pump. i called the manufacturer which is marchpump.com. i told them my problem since this is my second time replacing the pump in two years.i spoke with an engineer there and he said that pump motor is air cooled so u need that for ventilation. he recommended my go with a more expensive pump that has a sealed motor and it will solve the problem. i wanted to give everyone the part number for that sealed motor a/c pump.
old model # AC-3CP-MD 115VOLT
NEW MODEL # WITH SEALED MOTOR LC-3CP-MD 115VOLT
hope this info helps someone!!
 
hi all I’m working on a winter project and am in need of a table base. This is the aluminum part mounted to the bottom of the cockpit table that attaches the table to the pole. I’m looking to buy one of these and would love to know who makes it and the part number. Or, even better, I’d love to buy an old broken table if anyone has one. Thanks
3C0794EE-5366-4BFC-A30F-E13ED0C051F0.jpeg
 

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