Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Thank you so much for such a prompt reply, i appreciate it.
it was a T Joint in the cold water that had a leak.

When i first looked at the engine room, it was drained and not leaking; thinking it must be elsewhere...after running around the boat a couple hundred times, i found it.

Thank you for all your help, sometimes the newbies get lucky and meet great people like you.

Best Always,

/sp.
 
Question re: the fresh water wash down in the trunk. As a new owner of this boat, I assumed it was connected to the cold water side of the manifold. However, to my surprise, i turned it on yesterday to wash down my anchor chain and I have no water coming out. The freshwater system breaker was turned on at the panel and all of my sinks worked, etc. My assumption is that it's been disconnected or was never connected, as I noted it was an option on the 340DA in 2004. I looked at the manifold connections and there is not one specifically for that. I figured it was a T off the cold water transom shower hose. AT this point, I have not taken out the spigot or the transom shower to look behind it - which is easy enough, just haven't had time. Any suggestions? Anyone else with the same issue in the past? Appreciate any insight.
 
Cory Hart said:
Question re: the fresh water wash down in the trunk. As a new owner of this boat, I assumed it was connected to the cold water side of the manifold. However, to my surprise, i turned it on yesterday to wash down my anchor chain and I have no water coming out. The freshwater system breaker was turned on at the panel and all of my sinks worked, etc. My assumption is that it's been disconnected or was never connected, as I noted it was an option on the 340DA in 2004. I looked at the manifold connections and there is not one specifically for that. I figured it was a T off the cold water transom shower hose. AT this point, I have not taken out the spigot or the transom shower to look behind it - which is easy enough, just haven't had time. Any suggestions? Anyone else with the same issue in the past? Appreciate any insight.
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You can see the hoses from the bilge as they pass through the hatch. You could see if there are one or two cold water hoses here. I think there may be 2 but if it's just the one then you know the line is teed in with the shower and that might help you narrow your issue down. If it's 2 you should be able to follow it back. My faucet has been replaced at some point so apparently they do go bad.
 
Appreciate that. Yes, I did trace the hoses; one blue and one red. So, I'm assuming it's disconnected and/or was never connected. Just didn't make sense to me for there to be a hose bib with no connection to it. Do others have a dedicated hose off the manifold or a T fitting off of another line, such as the transom shower line?
 
My port motor will stall on first startup when cold, then after that it’s fine, I changed out those little sponges in flame arrestor and I swapped out the iac valve, no luck. Anyone else experience this?
 
My generator will start every 50 tries or there abouts
Shut it down after getting it going and it will take 50 tries to get it going again
Any thoughts on what to replace ?
Has new fuel filter and pump
 
KevinC said:
So I went down to work on the boat this week sure enough one of my LEDs are out on my battery switches. Guessing that this was a sign to act I ordered in a bunch of these and I am now stocking the VLD1s if you (or anyone else) needs one.

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Just following up on this...

So I swapped out both my switches and the light still would not come on for one. :( I checked out the wiring thinking something was wrong and it all looked right. Pulled the switch and replaced it with another and still the same. Swapped over the "lit" terminals from one to the other and they both lit up :confused:.

So I traced out the wiring on the electrical diagrams to make sure my terminals were correct and they were. The problem turned out to be the fuse on the solenoid. :mad: These are located in the engine compartment in the DC box. So, a simple check in the future - if a light is out in both the cabin panel and the engine compartment panel then look at the solenoid fuse (5A). When the solenoid is powered up this fuse protects the feed to the lights.

Regardless - Now they all light up and I am happy.

For anyone interested I now stock these switches as well as the tool to pop off the actuator. If you need them PM me or contact me via our online request form.

-Kevin
 
I have a burnt out battery switch lit as well
I’ll have to check out that fuse
Thanks
 
DrPringle said:
I have a burnt out battery switch lit as well
I’ll have to check out that fuse
Thanks
Click to expand...

It's pretty simple to check. If the power is on and the light is off on both switches (cabin and engine compartment) then it may be the fuse. If the light is out in the cabin switch and on in the engine compartment switch (or in reverse) then it is most likely the switch (unless both are bad).

The fuse is a little tricky to get to because it is in the black breaker box on the engine compartment forward bulkhead and you need to remove 8 screws to get inside. Then the fuse is on the solenoid for the batteries but it is surrounded by a bunch of harnesses.

Switch replacement is relatively easy. Take out the DC panel and the switches are on top. Just make good note of which wire goes to which terminal.

-Kevin
 
has anyone had an oil cooler failure? or have u replaced the oil coolers? i feel like its a ticking time bomb on my boat. just wondering if anyone has had a similar feeling or if anyone had one let go on them. thanks
 
liv2ryde100 said:
has anyone had an oil cooler failure? or have u replaced the oil coolers? i feel like its a ticking time bomb on my boat. just wondering if anyone has had a similar feeling or if anyone had one let go on them. thanks
Click to expand...
I did not have a failure, but I replaced my oil cooler at the end of last season with Mr Cool. I assumed that it was time based on age, and it was indeed time (no failure, just signs of erosion). Easy swap-out if you combine it with an oil change (difficulty level: 1 beer). Just so you now, the oil pressure in the coolers is higher than the water pressure, so you would see a small oil sheen in the exhaust water as an indicator. So the oil coolers was a concern, but not a high level concern. This is what I installed: https://www.mrcool.us/863904t-mercruiser-engine-oil-cooler.html

The transmission cooler, on the other hand, was a very high level concern. If that heat exchanger fails, the water can be sent into the transmission, making it a very expensive brick. So glad I changed them out! I replaced the transmission cooler with Mr Cool (ordered along with the oil coolers). Swap-out was not bad since I combined it with a change of trans filter and oil (difficulty level: 1.5 beer). This is what I installed: https://www.mrcool.us/863832t01-mercruiser-transmission-cooler.html
 
Tacoma290 said:
I did not have a failure, but I replaced my oil cooler at the end of last season with Mr Cool. I assumed that it was time based on age, and it was indeed time (no failure, just signs of erosion). Easy swap-out if you combine it with an oil change (difficulty level: 1 beer). Just so you now, the oil pressure in the coolers is higher than the water pressure, so you would see a small oil sheen in the exhaust water as an indicator. So the oil coolers was a concern, but not a high level concern. This is what I installed: https://www.mrcool.us/863904t-mercruiser-engine-oil-cooler.html

The transmission cooler, on the other hand, was a very high level concern. If that heat exchanger fails, the water can be sent into the transmission, making it a very expensive brick. So glad I changed them out! I replaced the transmission cooler with Mr Cool (ordered along with the oil coolers). Swap-out was not bad since I combined it with a change of trans filter and oil (difficulty level: 1.5 beer). This is what I installed: https://www.mrcool.us/863832t01-mercruiser-transmission-cooler.html
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for the info, when u changed the oil coolers how much oil did u wind up losing? Bout a quart or so?
 
liv2ryde100 said:
Thanks so much for the info, when u changed the oil coolers how much oil did u wind up losing? Bout a quart or so?
Click to expand...
You bet! Not even a quart. You can hold the exchanger mostly level during change out and not loose much. It is the oil lines that seem to never stop dripping; Stuff rags into the open oil lines during change out to reduce that.
I also found that one of the oil line threads was tough to line up in place; I twisted the exchanger out of place, got the one oil line thread started, then rotated the new exchanger into position, and then made the rest of the connections.
Are you going to do the trans coolers as well?
Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
 
Tacoma290 said:
You bet! Not even a quart. You can hold the exchanger mostly level during change out and not loose much. It is the oil lines that seem to never stop dripping; Stuff rags into the open oil lines during change out to reduce that.
I also found that one of the oil line threads was tough to line up in place; I twisted the exchanger out of place, got the one oil line thread started, then rotated the new exchanger into position, and then made the rest of the connections.
Are you going to do the trans coolers as well?
Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
Click to expand...
Trans coolers are done, just need to do oil coolers and next off season do all three heat exchangers
 
A2E5ADA9-E272-432D-BF93-1543A3FCE64B.jpeg
Pic from yesterday
 
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