Official 215 Express Thread

I was wondering if any 215 EC owners have any input or advice for me. I'm looking to add a spot/ searchlight. Currently looking at a GoLight 5149 which is "Portable" but can also be locked into a permanent mount. It also has a suction cup mount that I think would work well for mounting the light during night navigation on the cabin deck window. It has a 15' 12V DC cord with remote. If I decide to go permanent with a light, does anyone have an opinion as where it would be best to mount and how?
 
Got the new name installed...

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Ok I've read numerous posts on how to use snaps instead of the plastic extrusion on the isinglass panels. I really never saw an exact find or fix for this. I know the vadney clips won't work. And there was someone who was making plastic blocks to fit into the grove, but the threads went dead with no solutions. Was or is there a solution?


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whoops - my thread view was messed up.......:smt021
 
Last edited:
H2ONUT said:
Ok I've read numerous posts on how to use snaps instead of the plastic extrusion on the isinglass panels. I really never saw an exact find or fix for this. I know the vadney clips won't work. And there was someone who was making plastic blocks to fit into the grove, but the threads went dead with no solutions. Was or is there a solution?


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Click to expand...

maybe you can use some of these 'zipper extenders' to make installing the camper canvas easier..... http://www.canvas-boat-cover-and-repair-advisor.com/ez-xtend-boat-zippers.html

i hated installing the canvas on my 215EC for winter storage because it so tight and difficult to install......it would take me a couple hours to get the canvas installed and then it still had some gaps......

cliff
 
CliffA said:
maybe you can use some of these 'zipper extenders' to make installing the camper canvas easier..... http://www.canvas-boat-cover-and-repair-advisor.com/ez-xtend-boat-zippers.html

i hated installing the canvas on my 215EC for winter storage because it so tight and difficult to install......it would take me a couple hours to get the canvas installed and then it still had some gaps......

cliff
Click to expand...

I am actually getting new extrusion from Great Lakes, $8.00 for 84". Pretty reasonable. When I have it stitched I'll adjust it so it won't fit so tight. Need zippers replaced also...


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Put the mooring cover on today for the first time since getting the boat last year. Water pools on the cover by the transom door. Wondering what others have done to eliminate that. I am also going to have holes cut out so I can leave the top open also.

I have the 5.0 EFI, I had 5 people in the boat yesterday and it performed great. Don't know why others think the 5.0 is underpowered for this model...


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"Pooling water"... yup - happens on most of them. Easiest and most straight forward approach is probably just to use another cover support pole about a foot forward of the transom door. If you leave that aft/port seat in place, I think you'll be fine with putting the pole just in front of the seat, too.

Just my opinion, but... considering the bimini is so quick and easy to put up/down... why cut a hole in the canvas just to leave the bimini open all the time?
 
Lazy Daze said:
"Pooling water"... yup - happens on most of them. Easiest and most straight forward approach is probably just to use another cover support pole about a foot forward of the transom door. If you leave that aft/port seat in place, I think you'll be fine with putting the pole just in front of the seat, too.

Just my opinion, but... considering the bimini is so quick and easy to put up/down... why cut a hole in the canvas just to leave the bimini open all the time?
Click to expand...


Yeah, just thinking... I know, that's dangerous! LOVE this boat.


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We have a second support pole just forward of the engine hatch. Rather than snaps across the transom, we have elastic loops. After several months we have to extend the stern support pole to eliminate / minimize the pooling of water. About every three years the loops are replaced as they lose their elasticity.

I also agree with Dennis, the bimini top is very easy to put up. No need to have it up when you have the mooring cover on.
 
I used a couple 'safety cones' like this placed on the two jump seats in the back to hold the cover up....worked great....just be sure to get ones that are tall enough to raise the cover enough to stop the water from pooling....

cliff
 

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H2ONUT said:
Put the mooring cover on today for the first time since getting the boat last year. Water pools on the cover by the transom door. Wondering what others have done to eliminate that. I am also going to have holes cut out so I can leave the top open also.

I have the 5.0 EFI, I had 5 people in the boat yesterday and it performed great. Don't know why others think the 5.0 is underpowered for this model...


eb83bbd1fbaa7c736f74002a9d698abf.jpg



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Click to expand...
My WE cover does the same thing....I like Cliffs idea
 
Has anyone replaced the stereo and wired remote? Curious about the route that was used to run the remote wire from the stereo to the helm.


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I have a silly question to ask being a newer boater. What position should the bilge pump switch be in? If the battery switch is on and the dash switch is off will the pump operate when needed via the float? And then the switch on the dash manually controls it?

Thank you in advance
 
Yes, the float switch will activate the bilge pump with the helm switch off. It should also work even with the battery switch off. The bilge pump is the only elec device that is wired directly to the battery, so regardless of the position of either the battery or helm switch, the pump should kick on with the float switch.
 
Multiple times per season I test mine to make sure the float switch is working properly. Since I trail, it's relatively easy. I insert the the drain plug and either wash the inside deck or just run a hose to get water in the bilge. It takes several gallons, but, if working properly, it will come on. If testing while on the trailer, make sure no one you care about is standing next to the discharge or they may get a shower.
 
First season and kept in a slip. It drives me crazy having water in the bilge. Don't know why they made the cockpit drain into the bilge and not overboard. I vac the water out all the time. We have had so much rain here the last few weeks...


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H2ONUT said:
First season and kept in a slip. It drives me crazy having water in the bilge. Don't know why they made the cockpit drain into the bilge and not overboard. I vac the water out all the time. We have had so much rain here the last few weeks...


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Click to expand...

I agree - it would have been nice to have scuppers drain overboard, but I see the issue is that our deck isn't at the same level as our swim platforms, like the DA's. We're way below and too close to the waterline. For my bilge to kick in, I would need a significant amount of water in the bilge as well.
 
We trailer so it has never been an issue. I was replacing the dash bezel this weekend and it got me to wondering. The pump has only come once while we were boating and it was a day when we were in and out of the water as were the dogs. That time I flipped the switch at the helm and was surprised by the amount of water that was pumped out. I will check with the hose to be sure the float is working properly.

We went to Lake Mendota this past weekend as the Miss. River was high and there was crazy debris floating downstream. We pulled into a nice little cove and practiced anchoring. I just switched from 3' of coated chain and 150' of rope to 15' of 5/16" galvanized chain and 200' of rope. What is the best deployment method to keep the chain off the bow while paying it out?
 
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