OFFICIAL 250 DANCER THREAD

I think I read a long time ago in another thread.... there could potentially be an issue caused when changing the battery switch between both/1/2 while the engine is running? I can't recall exactly - but I am pretty sure I read only to switch battery settings "before" starting the engine? So if you have to start on battery 2 for example, is the alternator also charging battery 1 while the engine is running?
 
Thanks for the help!

Battery turned out to be no good - shame on me for not really testing before handing over the $$ for the boat. Replaced - good to go.

Bilge pump issue (Lower bilge pump, wired to float and manual switch on dash. When turning switch on on the dash, a DC breaker in engine "room" trips. Causes? Bad pump?) still seems odd. I did test the float, and ended up with the same result. The DC breaker trips after a few second of the pump being "on" but the pump never really runs. Is it likely just a seized pump? Or wiring issue?
 
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Clam Bake said:
I think I read a long time ago in another thread.... there could potentially be an issue caused when changing the battery switch between both/1/2 while the engine is running? I can't recall exactly - but I am pretty sure I read only to switch battery settings "before" starting the engine? So if you have to start on battery 2 for example, is the alternator also charging battery 1 while the engine is running?
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switching between should be fine while running. What is important is to not switch to the off position, or you can fry your alternator.
 
Any early 90's era DA owners successfully access bow rail mounting blocks? Previous owner of my 1990 placed winter cover supports on top of bow rail, ripping one support post off the deck. Would like to beef up backer block as a part of this repair. This is the last support of the starboard side.

Thanks for insights!
 
I just had some backer plates laser cut out of 1/8" stainless so I could fix mine all up, but I didn't get to it before splash time so I don't know if it's all going to work out as planned or not. Basically, they're round plates about the same size as the stanchion bases. This should give a good bite for the bolts without pulling and cracking the fiberglass like seems to be the norm over time. If you're interested, i can post up a sketch, or I'll grab a pic next weekend when I'm at the boat.
 
Sketch or pic would be great! I haven't dug around a lot, but will this weekend - how do I gain access to the backer blocks currently? Cabin dis-assembly necessary? Thanks!
 
appearson said:
Sketch or pic would be great! I haven't dug around a lot, but will this weekend - how do I gain access to the backer blocks currently? Cabin dis-assembly necessary? Thanks!
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I still haven't actually tested the fit on these, but they are designed to work with both style base plates for 7/8 rail. All the stanchion bolts should be accessible through the lockers, but you'll have to cut access holes through the headliner inside the locker. PO was nice enough to do this for me, but not nice enough to actually fix anything, just tightened the bolts making things worse.
 
hello. new boater here. picked up a 1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer last week. bought it from the original owner in excellent condition. we took it out for a cruise before i bought it but haven't had it back in since. i just dropped it off at a shop to have the bellows, impeller, shift cable and gimbal bearing replaced. the inlet hose was cracked and shaft bellow had slight dry rot but just having them replace all that stuff while its apart. owner said it had about 600 hours on it but meter says 398. i will have to double check with him. i replaced the bilge hose as it had a crack in it and about 25% of the water being pumped out was leaking right back in. we have been getting pounded with rain here so i'm in no hurry to get it in the river. we got a dock space at the local marina but its a mess right now with debris so no hurry here.

i do have a few questions that i can ask the PO but figured i would ask here. the boat has shore power but no control panel to switch anything. the PO said the fridge switches automatically from AC to DC. there are a few 110 outlets throughout too. another question is the sink has a hot and cold control but i don't believe it has a hot water heater?

the PO had replaced a bunch of the teak with trek decking (including the original cupholders). he did a very nice job and i didn't even notice it until he mentioned it. he did give me all of the original teak. that got me to thinking.....i have a small CNC machine in my garage that i have cut wood, aluminum, and etched glass on. trying to think of other things i can make for the boat.

thoughts? ideas? suggestions?

thanks boat1 (640x360).jpg
 
how did you ever make out with your port windows. I am having the same issue a wanted tosee I yo toppe the lea
 
I have a 1996 250 sundancer with 5.7lx bravo 3 with 2:2-1 gear with 24p props. top rpm is about 3900. anyone have 22p on their setup with better results?
 
i picked this 1990 250 DA this past May. It has the 5.7 with the alpha 1. 364 hours on the engine. It sat out of the water for 17 months. It has been stored inside most of its life. I had to replace all the bellows and also changed the shift cable. While i was in there i decided to replace the impeller. It's pretty nice but does need some more TLC. Port side window leaks. I bought new seals from Taylor thru Sea ray. I think the bow rail stanchens on the port side are leaking also. I just need to figure out how to get to the nuts under the head liner. I upgraded the charging system and stereo. This fall I will replace the wood on the side panels of the port side cockpit.
 
First season on the River Thames in London, England on our 1997 250DA. Weather's been great and there's always a pub to moor alongside!

Screen Shot 2016-10-03 at 20.38.48.jpg
 
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Anyone know how to remove the big mirror on the wall of the midcabin? Trying to run a wire from the engine compartment to the electrical panel in the galley. 1998 250Da
Thanks.
 
TXpilot83 said:
Anyone know how to remove the big mirror on the wall of the midcabin? Trying to run a wire from the engine compartment to the electrical panel in the galley. 1998 250Da
Thanks.
Click to expand...
I just put mine back together - the 4" vertacle molding that ties the mirror panel to the sink cabinet should give you access in addition to the upholstery buttons about mid-height on the mirror panel - there is a top rail that also secures the mirror panel - hope that helps
 
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