Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Chrisvr6 said:
Anyone ever change their fuel/water seperator and the motor wouldn't start afterwards? I think i was supposed to prime it by pouring fuel into the new one. Didn't do that to the other engine and it started right up though. Not sure how.
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Once in a great while that will happen. There's quite a few threads about it, though, that you can find by searching. But usually they'll start right up. Before you take the filter off again to fill it, just turn the ignition on and off a few times (listen for the pump to turn off before you turn the ignition off) to help fill the filter. Try starting it - if no go, do a couple more key off/on cycles. Personally, I've never found the need to pre-fill the filter... and I've changed a lot of 'em! But some swear by it.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Once in a great while that will happen. There's quite a few threads about it, though, that you can find by searching. But usually they'll start right up. Before you take the filter off again to fill it, just turn the ignition on and off a few times (listen for the pump to turn off before you turn the ignition off) to help fill the filter. Try starting it - if no go, do a couple more key off/on cycles. Personally, I've never found the need to pre-fill the filter... and I've changed a lot of 'em! But some swear by it.
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Yeah i thought the same, just click the key a bunch of times. I actually got to the point of checking for fuel pressure with a tester. I put the tester fitting on the fuel rail valve and a bunch of air came out. She finally Started after that but i got fuel all over the top of the engine when i took off the tester so i didn't run it again. Now i need to get all that fuel off somehow.
 
Does anyone else with twins have either of their battery gauges read less than the other, less than 12v, when you click the key on? All my batteries test over 12.7v when i put a multimeter to them. Wondering if its just the gauge.
 
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What were the stock speakers on 280DA? (08). I am trying to figure out exactly what were all replaced by the previous owner. It has a JL sub, 6ch JL AMP, RF in the cabin and plus full Fusion system. Were those Rockford Fosgate Punch what came with the boat?
 
searaypuget said:
What were the stock speakers on 280DA? (08). I am trying to figure out exactly what were all replaced by the previous owner. It has a JL sub, 6ch JL AMP, RF in the cabin and plus full Fusion system. Were those Rockford Fosgate Punch what came with the boat?
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I had an 08 as my last boat. It came with a clarion head unit and Sony blue speakers. They sucked and I replaced with JLs. There was an upgrade sound system as an option though that had a sub/Rockford speakers and amp... sounds like you have that set up.


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TheBigb said:
I had an 08 as my last boat. It came with a clarion head unit and Sony blue speakers. They sucked and I replaced with JLs. There was an upgrade sound system as an option though that had a sub/Rockford speakers and amp... sounds like you have that set up.


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Thanks for the info!


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Anglers Rest said:
First off, hello! I'm amazed at the knowledge represented on this forum. I've learned so much about our 280DA from reading all 421 pages of this thread. I'm not new to boats; I've had boats all my life but mostly outboard center console fishing type boats. This is our first cruiser and we're loving it. We keep it at our dock on Lake Lanier, GA, and get to enjoy it often.

EIM issue? A week ago I upgraded the anchor light to LED. Tested after installation and it looked great. We went on a dinner cruise last Wednesday and everything seemed normal; blower working, windless working, etc. On the cruise home at sunset I turned on the nav lights and the windless light came on and would not turn off. Back at the dock I discovered the anchor light was not lit. I started trouble shooting this weekend thinking it was the new LED, however now the blower doesn't work, windless doesn't work, cockpit lights will flicker once but not stay on, bilge lights and storage compartment lights don't work. Anchor light strobed at first, now doesn't work. Stereo remote powers up when I turn on the nav lights. All of these functions are controlled by the aft EIM.

I can't imagine that installing a LED lamp could cause an EIM issue. Is this just coincidental? Any advice on next steps?
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I was reading some older posts and am curious as to what you discovered to be the cause? I installed 2 new LEDs for our anchor light a few weeks ago and didn't experience any issues. Hoping all is now well for you :0)


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powerdbygarrett said:
I understand they go right to the switch, what I am trying to find out is where does the harness run on the port side of the boat, so I can extend the original wire.
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Yeah just follow it from the switch and start opening/unscrewing stuff. I'm having a hell of a time just running new coax for the vhf antenna on the radar arch myself.
 
Question on docking 280 stern in (with 1 crew mate). Is it better for helmsman to get stern against dock and have crew "step off" with line in hand...or preferable to throw a line and hook a dock cleat? The freeboard on the sundancer is kind of high to get the mid cleat so Ive been trying to figure the optimal method for docking. 1) step off with line 2) throw stern line over dock cleat 3) throw line attached to mid ship over dock cleat.

Any ideas appreciated.
 
armentb said:
Question on docking 280 stern in (with 1 crew mate). Is it better for helmsman to get stern against dock and have crew "step off" with line in hand...or preferable to throw a line and hook a dock cleat? The freeboard on the sundancer is kind of high to get the mid cleat so Ive been trying to figure the optimal method for docking. 1) step off with line 2) throw stern line over dock cleat 3) throw line attached to mid ship over dock cleat.

Any ideas appreciated.
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My daughter stands on the swimming platform to make sure I don't hit the piling and once about 5ft of the boat is in the slip, she jumps off with the line and pulls in the boat to the slip while I give tiny gas as needed. In the example below, due to the wind the timing of making the right turn is critical and let the wind carry and push the bow while I back in. If the bow gets pushed too far, my daughter won't be strong enough to pull in then I simply abort and retry. So far it's been working fine.
 

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I have had an issue with the smell of fuel there. I needed to change the washers on the gas guage sending unit
it solved my problem
the access panel is in the middleof the aft berth
 
Had the same thing happen a few years back. It was the EIM in the bilge. Very expensive fix. This has to be one of Sea Rays biggest design flaws of all time. Everything should be on its own toggle switch. When the EIM goes out, everything goes out.
 
Had the same thing happen a few years back. It was the EIM in the bilge. Very expensive fix. This has to be one of Sea Rays biggest design flaws of all time. Everything should be on its own toggle switch. When the EIM goes out, everything goes out.
 
On my front hatch riser arm, the knob you turn to tighten the arm all of a sudden wont turn in either direction. It was working fine the last time we unscrewed it and let the hatch down. Yesterday we raised the hatch and the knob would not turn to tighten it. Any ideas on how these work? I could not see anything wrong with it.
 
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