Official 280 Sundancer Thread

trdehmer said:
Fade control (front to back) on the radio might be messed up? RCA connections from radio to amp loose/bad?
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Thank you Trd,
I played with the fade control and it seemed to work fine. The RCA connections are clean and tight. I guess it's possible that the speakers are bad........but all 4? I bought the boat like this so it's possible.
 
Curtiss said:
Thank you Trd,
I played with the fade control and it seemed to work fine. The RCA connections are clean and tight. I guess it's possible that the speakers are bad........but all 4? I bought the boat like this so it's possible.
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You mention you installed a new amp, might need to turn up the level controls on the amp itself...
 
Hey guys, so I had a bad UP trim solenoid on my port side engine. Replaced it with new solenoid. Then, went to test it and NEITHER switch on the throttle control would work, for either engine! The trailer switch won't work at all either. No clicking, no nothing. Drives are currently full down.

I double checked my connections to the new solenoid and it all looks right and is secure. I then tested the new solenoid per the service manual, all good...the motor will run.

Tried looking for breakers but couldn't find any. Checked the 110amp and 20amp fuse on trim pump, both good.

Any ideas? I can't make sense of it.

Thanks,

Tom
 
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Ok, so....after all that I said whatever and headed out for an hour cruise with the fam. After returning and buttoning everything up, for the hell of it I pressed the trim buttons in the throttle...they worked! Wtf?! I ran them up, down and back again several times. No problem. The one I replaced now works great.

I have no idea what happened. And I hate that. But at least it seems to be all good!
 
Greetings....I'm in the process of buying a 2003 280 with twin 4.3 Alpha gen II. I had the pre-purchase survey done and there seem to be two main issues. One of the trim tabs isn't working an the other was intermittent at first. The boat hadn't been getting a lot of use this summer as the owner moved. They could have been kind of gunked up from all the growth, but can anybody give me a rough estimate of cost of replacement if I go that route? The other area of concern is that one engine only got up to 4150 RPMs at WOT while the other went to 4600. Any ideas?
TYIA....
 
Fat Tony said:
Greetings....I'm in the process of buying a 2003 280 with twin 4.3 Alpha gen II. I had the pre-purchase survey done and there seem to be two main issues. One of the trim tabs isn't working an the other was intermittent at first. The boat hadn't been getting a lot of use this summer as the owner moved. They could have been kind of gunked up from all the growth, but can anybody give me a rough estimate of cost of replacement if I go that route? The other area of concern is that one engine only got up to 4150 RPMs at WOT while the other went to 4600. Any ideas?
TYIA....
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There's truly not much to a trim tab system...... could be low on fluid or like you said gunked up by growth......I think an entire new trim tab system is around $600.

The RPM issue can be a bunch of things...... have you obtained the service records for the boat? Wonder when the last tune up was.
 
Little Ducky said:
There's truly not much to a trim tab system...... could be low on fluid or like you said gunked up by growth......I think an entire new trim tab system is around $600.

The RPM issue can be a bunch of things...... have you obtained the service records for the boat? Wonder when the last tune up was.
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When I mentioned to RPMs he dismissed it saying you wouldn't be driving the boat at WOT so why does it matter. He seemed to be a little defensive when I forwarded him the recommendations from the survey, but it's hard to tell from emails...but he did list what he's done in the last two years in his reply.
  • Replaced water heater
  • Replaced AC/DC refrigerator
  • Replaced hydraulic lines on outdrives
  • Replaced Mercathodes on both outdrives
  • Replaced 3 of the 4 pieces of canvas forward of the radar arch
  • Replaced generator water pump impellor
  • Entire bottom of boat aggressively sanded and recoated with anti-fouling paint
  • 2 years of outdrive service: outdrives removed and stored indoors for the winter, drive oil drained and replaced, replace all zincs, inspect bellows
  • 2 years of winterization service of both engines, generator and water systems
  • 2 years of shrink wrapping boat
I was trying to decide if I wanted him to get the tabs fixed/replaced or just take $$ off the price. There's always that question of if it gets done properly by they seller or just a quick fix to get rid of it....
 
Curtiss said:
I have a 2004 280 Sundancer..........I am looking for the faux wood cover for the left instrument panel where the blower switch is. Does anyone know where I can get this? Also, I need a new toiled seat fastener. The left side broke off of the bowl.
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I just replaced the pads and they don't make the wood grain any more. BTW it's part of the pad buttons as an assembly anyway. The new ones are black. I wanted to separate the old wood grain from the pad assembly to keep the wood grain look, but could not. Be happy your buttons still work but I'm thinking you are stuck on that one.

On the head seat, I just had the same thing. Plastic attachment just disintegrated in heat. I'm debating getting a new seat, since the hinge is a bit tough to find, and I would have to screw it into the seat botttom and Top. The seat is pretty standard size the SR 280 had a Dometic 500 plus. I'm Hoping to find a simple plumbing top for 20 bucks or so buT am not sure it will work.

Hinges are about half the price of a seat and more work. Mine is held on by cable Ties, but girls don't like that!
 
Fat Tony said:
When I mentioned to RPMs he dismissed it saying you wouldn't be driving the boat at WOT so why does it matter.
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If that's truly what the guy said, then one of two things is true:

1) He doesn't know the importance of being able to get the RPM's into the max range and thereby shouldn't be making a comment on it. Whether you, or anyone, wants to run the engine at max is an option. But it should be able to do it.

2) He DOES know the importance of obtaining max RPM's and is therefore lying.

It's one of those two things. No if's, and's or but's about it. Of course, this doesn't mean the boat is "no-go", but the reason for the low RPM's needs to be at least figure out - you don't want to go into a purchase with a question mark here. Tabs are a dirt simple system and easy enough to figure out - but engine issues can vary widely.
 
Lazy Daze said:
If that's truly what the guy said, then one of two things is true:

1) He doesn't know the importance of being able to get the RPM's into the max range and thereby shouldn't be making a comment on it. Whether you, or anyone, wants to run the engine at max is an option. But it should be able to do it.

2) He DOES know the importance of obtaining max RPM's and is therefore lying.

It's one of those two things. No if's, and's or but's about it. Of course, this doesn't mean the boat is "no-go", but the reason for the low RPM's needs to be at least figure out - you don't want to go into a purchase with a question mark here. Tabs are a dirt simple system and easy enough to figure out - but engine issues can vary widely.
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It really just seems that he was not happy with the list of the surveyors finding/recco's. Of course he couldn't make himself available to attend the survey in the first place. Here's another example-the white nav light on the arch wasn't working. He mentions how easy it would be for me to fix it...a bulb and a screwdriver. Well if that's the case, if it was my boat and I was selling it, I would have done that before I even showed/listed it. To me, that's just something that should be working.

Bottom line now, the boat is being pulled early next week to work on my items. The money is just sitting in my checking account, so if he wants it, he needs to address them. It's a great looking boat, but that only goes so far....
 
Bama said:
I just replaced the pads and they don't make the wood grain any more. BTW it's part of the pad buttons as an assembly anyway. The new ones are black. I wanted to separate the old wood grain from the pad assembly to keep the wood grain look, but could not. Be happy your buttons still work but I'm thinking you are stuck on that one.

On the head seat, I just had the same thing. Plastic attachment just disintegrated in heat. I'm debating getting a new seat, since the hinge is a bit tough to find, and I would have to screw it into the seat botttom and Top. The seat is pretty standard size the SR 280 had a Dometic 500 plus. I'm Hoping to find a simple plumbing top for 20 bucks or so buT am not sure it will work.

Hinges are about half the price of a seat and more work. Mine is held on by cable Ties, but girls don't like that!
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I found the hinges at the marine store. I will tell you how that goes....$10 bucks or so. I can buy the black ones but they are $300 or so for the whole piece (electronics and all). AND it doesn't match so I'd need to by both sides which wouldn't match the rest of the panel. The buttons all work but I'm afraid of the waterproofing now that the wood trim has cracked and broken off around it..
 
searaypuget said:
What were the stock speakers on 280DA? (08). I am trying to figure out exactly what were all replaced by the previous owner. It has a JL sub, 6ch JL AMP, RF in the cabin and plus full Fusion system. Were those Rockford Fosgate Punch what came with the boat?
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Hey There,, Mine came with Polk MoMo's .I ordered the up graded stereo. after 12 years I've got one bad,, I think ,lol sounds funny.. may be the cross over.. hope this helps
 
Hey There,, Im looking at replaceing my Nav lights to LED ones .. Any thoughts or problems in doing this ,
Thanks
 
Curtiss said:
I found the hinges at the marine store. I will tell you how that goes....$10 bucks or so. I can buy the black ones but they are $300 or so for the whole piece (electronics and all). AND it doesn't match so I'd need to by both sides which wouldn't match the rest of the panel. The buttons all work but I'm afraid of the waterproofing now that the wood trim has cracked and broken off around it..[/QUOT

If you have the broken piece I would try gluing it back. Regardless don't buy the entire pad until you must. I have a mismatched panel (wood and black) and hate it. Worst case is the pad fails and then you are in the same place. I would be concerned about replacing one side of keypads since the replacements are not the same but must work with the control module. Hopefully you can find some way to repair what you have. That's better as long as it works.
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Curtiss said:
I found the hinges at the marine store. I will tell you how that goes....$10 bucks or so. I can buy the black ones but they are $300 or so for the whole piece (electronics and all). AND it doesn't match so I'd need to by both sides which wouldn't match the rest of the panel. The buttons all work but I'm afraid of the waterproofing now that the wood trim has cracked and broken off around it..
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I bought a standard round seat at Lowes for 20 bucks and will let you know how that works!
 
Anyone ever use the thru transom engine oil drains? Just noticed i have them and not sure if i should mess with them possibly causing them to leak.
 
Hi all
purchased 06 sundancer 280 with old clarion and no cockpit remote. upgrading the entire setup and wanted to know which route (how) do I run wires from cockpit over to panel (radio location). basically starboard to port

thanks
 
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