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Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by gredmer, Jun 26, 2008.
Wow, that looks awesome! Nice work
Any suggestions on a replacement matress for the vbirth other than memory foam?
I'm about to replace the trim sensor for my bravo 3 (single 496 mag 2006) and after asking in the technical forum
(http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/different-trim-sensor-on-each-side-bravo-3.92096/) I received info that the SB-sensor might not be used, only the port one (with three wires).. how can I tell for sure? I'd rather not pay for two kits if I don't have to!
I have a brand new never used aft canvas in toast tweed from a 2003 280DA if anyone needs to replace theirs. It is Great Lakes OEM slant back type.
Can anyone tell me how to open up this light to remove the bulb
My guess would be to take a flat blade screwdriver and gently press the clear tabs one at a time while easily pulling on it. Might try unscrewing it first, but looks like it “clicks” in with the tabs.
Just a pure guess...
I did try that but figured I'd see if anyone did it before. I'll be back at it tonight, I'll just give it a bit more muscle, hoping I don't break anything.
Thanks again, very much appreciated
Need to paint bilge vent covers that have been ordered, anyone know where I can find the paint to match the hull? ‘02 280
That looks really awesome! Just curious what made you put it in the shower?
Thank you! As for the head floor, I always disliked that rough, sandy feeling of the nonskid on the floor in there, and we don't ever use the head as a shower, so it was a good opportunity to "dress" the head up a little bit.
Has anyone on here added wake tower speakers to their radar arch using a surface mount that would screw into the arch upside down? I was looking into this but became concerned that over time the weight of the speaker bouncing in rough water or while trailering would crack the fiberglass or the screws would pull out.
I haven't done it, but I share the exact same concern and I definitely would NOT just screw it in. You'd want to add some reinforcement to the backside (inside) of the mounting area - and quite a bit of it - like a large aluminum plate and something like 5200 to take up any irregularities in the shape of the mounting surface, which could be slightly concave on the inside. Then through bolt it. To access the inside, you'll need to install deck/inspection plates on the top of the arch. Gonna be tight, working in there, though.
I also thought of mounting them on the vertical portion of the arch. That way I could use the bottom access panels to reach the inside to install the backing plate using SS bolts like you like you suggested.
Hello everyone, purchased our 08 280SD in the fall so we havent had it out other than the survey, still lots to figure out. Our previous 230 SD was very basic compared to this one
On the 2 battery switches, I see batt 1&2 on the left and I guess batt 3 to the right? Do I need all three batt switches on to charge all three? Also, when on the hook what would be the batt to use? Should I have all three on when starting and cruising?
Congrats on your new boat and welcome to the 280 site. You don't need any of the battery switches to be on to charge. You do need the AC Converter switch to be on in the AC/DC panel. Left switch is for starboard engine and house, Right switch is for port engine.
Capt TJ, ok, that seems straight forward, thanks very much for the quick reply.
Is something wrong that I need to have the right switch on to bring the starboard drive up, or maybe I thats normal?
Sorry can't help you there. On the trim buttons: I always have had the engines on and I've never used the trailer button.