Josh28161
Active Member
thanks. Was considering that area, another option is to move the batteries forward. Just have to find the time.....
thanks. Was considering that area, another option is to move the batteries forward. Just have to find the time.....
DWABoat
Well-Known Member
- Aug 13, 2019
- 1,012
- Boat Info
- 2001 280 Sundancer
1989 220CC Cuddy Cabin
- Engines
- Twin 4.3 w/Alpha Ones
5.7 Mercruiser Alpha One
You would have to rewire those heavy cables plus still do some plumbing to get the water heater installed.
Leave the batteries and move just the water heater and all you have to do is plumbing and run your small line for voltage. Lot less work.
You get to your batteries for maintenance a lot more than a water heater also.
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
Josh,
We have the larger 11 gallon version. If you mount the heater so that the cylinder is parallel with the centerline of the boat it may fit just fine. The trick will be finding a home for the water pump.
We have the larger 11 gallon version. If you mount the heater so that the cylinder is parallel with the centerline of the boat it may fit just fine. The trick will be finding a home for the water pump.
Josh28161
Active Member
Thanks guys. I am supposed to get the heater delivered tomorrow so hopefully I can get down to the boat this weekend to figure out where to install. I’ll let you know what I come up with.
Josh28161
Active Member
I made it down to the boat this past weekend to try the new water heater. It fit with no issues at all. It is going to be much easier to mount than the old one, as the new one can be screwed down from either side vs having to get behind the old one. Plumbing should be minimal. Only issue is the pump and blower that were mounted on the top. I found the blower can be pushed back to the transom and attached there. As for the pump, I am going to mount a smaller piece of wood to the top of the water heater using large hose clamps that will go around the round section of the water heater, and then mount the pump to that piece of wood. It should end up in almost the same location.
The hose coming into the water heater tank from the engine broke off on mine right at the connection. Its full of crud and looks like water hasn't been circulating through it. Anyone have this happen? Thinking blocking it off may be the best option. I never really need hot water when I'm out anyways.
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
Uh, the crud in the water heater is also likely in both your engines. You may have bigger issues
Has it happened? Sure - plenty of posts/threads about that. In fact, look back a few posts - that's exactly what Josh is talking about.
While the hot water heat exchanger clogs up faster than an engine (typically), Henry makes a good point that there could very well be build up in the engines and it would good to flush them out well. But, yes, you could either eliminate the heater all together or just the exchanger part, if the rest is totally rotten or ready to go.
DWABoat
Well-Known Member
- Aug 13, 2019
- 1,012
- Boat Info
- 2001 280 Sundancer
1989 220CC Cuddy Cabin
- Engines
- Twin 4.3 w/Alpha Ones
5.7 Mercruiser Alpha One
Since that passage is designed for flow-through, would it be better to join the two hoses with a sleeve or to block them both off?
You could barb them together if you wanted. But even better is to just remove them and the pipe-to-barb fitting from the engine. A regular garboard drain plug will screw right into the hole (1/2" pipe).
Ovmman
Member
- Sep 16, 2016
- 51
- Boat Info
- 2005 280 Sundancer with twin 4.3 engines, alpha 1 gen 2
- Engines
- Twin 4.3 alpha 1 gen 2
Maybe a dumb question, but how would you flush out the engine
DWABoat
Well-Known Member
- Aug 13, 2019
- 1,012
- Boat Info
- 2001 280 Sundancer
1989 220CC Cuddy Cabin
- Engines
- Twin 4.3 w/Alpha Ones
5.7 Mercruiser Alpha One
I debated on this when I changed my water heater last month. I really like having my water already hot when we get where we are going. I don’t run my generator when we swim around the boat due to CO and ESD concerns, so having it hot for washdowns led me to pipe it in. I consider the $275 water heater a cost of running the boat.
Oh, I thought you were asking because you were interested in eliminating the heater? Or, based on your post, anyways, that's what I thought.
Josh28161
Active Member
If the heat exchanger in the heater was corroded enough to break off like mine then odds are there may be or close to being an internal leak between the exchanger and the tank. Just something to consider.
Absolutely not a dumb question... actually, it's a good question!
So, there are any number of ways it can be done, really. It depends on how involved you want to get. But I'll touch on a few ways I've done it in the past...
-- Flush the engine with Salt Away (or similar) hooked up to a hose and run the engine via muffs. You can do it multiple times over the course of a day or two.
-- Using a flush bag or large bucket, mix a few gallons of Rydlyme into the water and run the engine for a longer time (make to sure to catch the exhaust water from the transom plate.
-- Keeping an eye on your temp gauge, run the engine on the muffs with just fresh water, but remove the draincocks directly from the engine block. For those that have the quick drain system, plug the block drain hoses.
-- You can even isolate the engine and setup a recirculation system using a bucket, a bilge pump and your chemical of choice - I've even used muriatic acid for this.
Seldom Right
Member
- Feb 21, 2020
- 68
- Boat Info
- 2004 Sea Ray 280DA, Twin Mercruiser 5.0's w/Bravo III drives
- Engines
- Twin Mercruiser 5.0L w/Bravo III Drives
So, when I brought the outdrive up today to change the zincs, the exhaust bellows pulled off on the transom side. This does not look good, fix /access, wise. How do I get it back on, and get it tight. Thinking I should buy a new bellows while I'm at it.
I'm surprised that you don't already have the newer style - which not an accordian style. The newer style is two pieces - one mounts to the drive side and one mounts to the transom side. When the drive is trimmed all the way up, they are separate (open). When the drive trims down, the two pieces mate together.
But... back on point... the exhaust bellows doesn't really matter. You can leave it as is and keep boating, if you want.
But... back on point... the exhaust bellows doesn't really matter. You can leave it as is and keep boating, if you want.
Seldom Right
Member
- Feb 21, 2020
- 68
- Boat Info
- 2004 Sea Ray 280DA, Twin Mercruiser 5.0's w/Bravo III drives
- Engines
- Twin Mercruiser 5.0L w/Bravo III Drives
when i trimmed it back down the bellows got jammed in there, so i need to fix it. Two piece, interesting as the other side is new last year, and they put a one piece in. any suggestions on where can i find one?
If it's jammed, just cut it out and go boating.
I'm not understanding your second/third sentences. There is either a single piece, accordian style or a two-piece style (smooth - sort of a big cup/small cup where the small cup fits inside the big cup).
Parts are available at your local dealer or just about any decent online shop. Make sure to get one from a decent online shop so you get a product that hasn't been sitting on a shelf for a long time.
I'm not understanding your second/third sentences. There is either a single piece, accordian style or a two-piece style (smooth - sort of a big cup/small cup where the small cup fits inside the big cup).
Parts are available at your local dealer or just about any decent online shop. Make sure to get one from a decent online shop so you get a product that hasn't been sitting on a shelf for a long time.
Seldom Right
Member
- Feb 21, 2020
- 68
- Boat Info
- 2004 Sea Ray 280DA, Twin Mercruiser 5.0's w/Bravo III drives
- Engines
- Twin Mercruiser 5.0L w/Bravo III Drives
There both single piece accordian style. Ok, thanks!