Official 280 Sundancer Thread

I wiped off the pump and fittings, changed the cap, and filled the reservoir again. Went for a ride and there is a quart of PS fluid in the bilge. The pump and fittings are dry so my next best guess is the PS cooler. Can anyone verify the location of the cooler for a 2001 4.3 EFI? I am getting conflicting results in searching. Some say its behind the distributor near the transom others say on the port side of the engine under the exhaust (which is dry from what I can see) I still have the question if the port and starboard sides are plumbed together or not.
Not sure about your '01 but my '04 only has 1 power steering pump and its on the starboard engine.
 
Not sure about your '01 but my '04 only has 1 power steering pump and its on the starboard engine.
Thanks, I have 2 pumps but power steering only works if the starboard engine is running.
 
I wiped off the pump and fittings, changed the cap, and filled the reservoir again. Went for a ride and there is a quart of PS fluid in the bilge. The pump and fittings are dry so my next best guess is the PS cooler. Can anyone verify the location of the cooler for a 2001 4.3 EFI? I am getting conflicting results in searching. Some say its behind the distributor near the transom others say on the port side of the engine under the exhaust (which is dry from what I can see) I still have the question if the port and starboard sides are plumbed together or not.
The cooler should be just inboard of the port motor mount. But it's super easy to find it since you just need to follow the power steering line.

You likely have a power steering pump on both engines, but only one is plumbed into the steering system. This, again, should be easy to verify by just looking at it, though.
 
The cooler should be just inboard of the port motor mount. But it's super easy to find it since you just need to follow the power steering line.

You likely have a power steering pump on both engines, but only one is plumbed into the steering system. This, again, should be easy to verify by just looking at it, though.

Thanks, I will look closer again later today but to me it looks like the power steering lines go behind the block and disappear. I have not removed the top cover to look at the back yet.
 
Well, I finally needed to be towed. Right after the marina serviced my Bravo3, it suddenly froze near Kelly’s Island on Lake Erie. Right before it froze, they gave it a “clean bill of health.” After pulling the drain plugs they saw metal in the upper and bottom oil ports. They are recommending to replace the entire unit. They waited 3 weeks to get the boat out of the water (because they didn’t have a way to get it to the service dock - I ended up towing with my dink) and I think their recommendation had to do more with expediency than overall cost effectiveness. So while expensive, I think this might be the right decision since this is a single drive. I ordered a replacement Seacore.

This original unit is a 2008 with 3 blade 22p. It struggles with a load (Like 7 people and gear and a late summertime hull).

What are your thoughts on moving to a 21P four blade set? The props look like new BTW so I could do a 4/3 if I wanted to. I think I would like a little higher RPM for cruising around Lake Erie. More RPM while slower would be nice for the typical wave conditions. The Mercruiser Prop selector recommends 4 blade.

I will own the old unit. Is there a use? I do have a small machine shop and can always use scrap metal. Do shops buy the housings?
 
Swaped the ECM from the working engine 1 to the non working engine 2 and engine 2 started up.

Anyone have suggestions on a replacement ECM? 16236999

Help!
 
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Well, I finally needed to be towed. Right after the marina serviced my Bravo3, it suddenly froze near Kelly’s Island on Lake Erie. Right before it froze, they gave it a “clean bill of health.” After pulling the drain plugs they saw metal in the upper and bottom oil ports. They are recommending to replace the entire unit. They waited 3 weeks to get the boat out of the water (because they didn’t have a way to get it to the service dock - I ended up towing with my dink) and I think their recommendation had to do more with expediency than overall cost effectiveness. So while expensive, I think this might be the right decision since this is a single drive. I ordered a replacement Seacore.

This original unit is a 2008 with 3 blade 22p. It struggles with a load (Like 7 people and gear and a late summertime hull).

What are your thoughts on moving to a 21P four blade set? The props look like new BTW so I could do a 4/3 if I wanted to. I think I would like a little higher RPM for cruising around Lake Erie. More RPM while slower would be nice for the typical wave conditions. The Mercruiser Prop selector recommends 4 blade.

I will own the old unit. Is there a use? I do have a small machine shop and can always use scrap metal. Do shops buy the housings?

My observation is that the B3 on the single engine 280 is the weak link. The B3 on our boat was the big money pit, a situation that does not seem to be the case when they are used in pairs. Our experience included besides the normal wear items, things like drive shaft failure, internal bearing failure and seal failure. This is added to the fact it was not the original drive. The drive installed by the factory was replaced entirely under warranty for the first owner. I’ll freely admit this is a purely anecdotal observation.

I think changing props is going to exacerbate the situation placing more load on the drive and further over stressing the system. At the end of the day it won’t change the fact that a 280 with a 496 is underpowered for 7 adults and gear.
 
I am not near my boat right now. Need to know what kind of CO detector I need to replace the one currently installed. Is it battery or hard wired? What is everyone using. 2003 280.
 
I am not near my boat right now. Need to know what kind of CO detector I need to replace the one currently installed. Is it battery or hard wired? What is everyone using. 2003 280.
My 2005 has a hardwired CO detector.
 
He was originally asking $895 with wiring harness.. I offered him $495 without the wiring harness.

He created that for just the ECM and told me to offer $495, which he accepted. HA!! He said he did $10k so that no one would snake it out from under me. HA!!!
 
He was originally asking $895 with wiring harness.. I offered him $495 without the wiring harness.

He created that for just the ECM and told me to offer $495, which he accepted. HA!! He said he did $10k so that no one would snake it out from under me. HA!!!

Well it worked!
 
This may have been addressed so apologies if so. But I have seen a lot of people asking about the 280 replacement fridge. After getting the Norcold replacement and it not fitting, I found Engel. They make the SR series with the 45 degree cut in the back. The black front was easily replaced with my old wood insert as well. Brand new and easy fit. Had to remove the outside flange to get through the door but it took five minutes. Hope this may help somebody out there!
 
This may have been addressed so apologies if so. But I have seen a lot of people asking about the 280 replacement fridge. After getting the Norcold replacement and it not fitting, I found Engel. They make the SR series with the 45 degree cut in the back. The black front was easily replaced with my old wood insert as well. Brand new and easy fit. Had to remove the outside flange to get through the door but it took five minutes. Hope this may help somebody out there!
Where were you two months ago when I had to replace mine?? Though I do like the extra room I have in my new one. :)
Can you provide the model number of the one you got?

Edit to add... I'm guessing this is it. It looks exactly like the Norcold that was there.
https://engelcoolers.com/collections/powered-fridge-freezers/products/sr70-rv-camping-fridge
 
I have a new error message on the Smartcraft port engine that says “fault horn”. All looks good on the gauges and both engines run well. Marina mechanic has given me the run around on what this actually means and the manual didn’t exactly clear it up either. Does anyone have clarification on this message?
 

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