Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[just1time]

Am learning a lot on the go.So Pardon my dull mind but can Someone please help enlighten me on a few more things about the Sundancer.

1. WASTE & WATER
-What are the basics of a macerator in the Head.
-Is it supposed to liquify waste and get it ready for pump-out?
-What is the process of using it? is it necessary?
-Do all the waste (liquid and solid) from the cabin sink, Head sink and toilet, and cockpit sink ALL end up in the same waste tank?
-Is there a seacock to shut on and off to prevent the risk of waste flowing backwards?
-Besides going down into the engine hatch to look, is there anyway one is warned when the tank is getting full? Curious on How often most pump out?
-Same for fresh water tank(which is actually concealed), any way to know when the tank is running low besides guesstimating?


2. GAS STOVE
-The idea of gas stove scares me somewhat. Is there a way to convert the Butane gas stove to electric option?


3. WATER HEATER
- Still haven't been able to use hot water. Not sure if I fried the elements. Cold water runs fine everywhere. But When I turn on the hot water tap anywhere onboard, it just splutters.
-How can I know if the hot water tank is filled with water?
-Is there a seacock somewhere am missing that is hindering flow?

4. CO
Carbon-monxide scares me a lot.
-Is the risk exposure of CO only when an engine is running?
-Can I assume all is well and sleep on board without fear after docking and running the blower for 15-20mins after shutting engine off?

5. SHIFTER & SHUDDER
-On Port side shifter, I get a shudder at times (seen it happen in boats and cars actually) when I shift into forward gear too slow. Is this common?


Thanks for the enlightenment

 

[AlexK]

That is definitely not normal, best idea would be to run the engines in the slip with the hatch open to scan for leaks. Most likely culprit as stated above is a freeze plug or cooling water hose. If you can't recreate with the boat at idle, then I'd have someone come out with you so you can run with the hatch open to examine for leaks at a slow speed cruise on a calm day. You shouldn't have any water in the bilge, so something is definitely up.

thank you, I will try this. I couldn’t recreate at idle, so will do what you suggest with running with hatch open and have someone watch for leaks.

 

[Jeff Delbuono]

At the slip the boat should be dry or could have a small leak. Under power you could have several things. a small hole in the riser/y pipe boot or loose hose clamp, Loose freez plug, Under power is under pressure and forcing water out and easy to see. Get a buddy in the ER and check under power

Your plug would stop leaking under power and leak at rest.

 

[Josh28161]

I want to ask what maybe a stupid question. We just purchased our boat, and I noticed that when going at decent speed the bildge is filling up with some water. Nothing that the pump can't handle, but it seems excessive. Doesn't happen when docked or at slow speed. Could it be a leaking drain plug? And if so, is it possible to do anything about it without taking the boat out of the water? Or my only option is to haul the boat out and replace the plug?

I have been having the same issue. Only gets water in the bilge when under way. I have twin 4.3’s. I think it’s from the port motor but not sure. I have tried to look around for leaks while under way, but has not worked for me. I’m not comfortable sitting in the ER while on plane. Seems too risky. I have tightened every hose clamp I can see but that didn’t help. Someone suggested putting some cardboard under the motors, so that is my next attempt to locate. If we run for an hour or so I end up w about a gallon or two in the bilge. My fear is what ever is leaking is going to open up all the way. Please post what you find if you resolve and I will do the same.

 

[JimFromMD]

Thank you
Is it a 12v tv?

The old insignia had a 110v plug with a power brick that converted down to the 12v the TV ran on. We cut the brick off and hard wired it directly to the boat's 12v system via new cigarette lighter outlet and 12v male adapter on the end of the TV wire. The newer ones don't seem to have that brick. So when we are anchor, I just got a small 12v to 110v inverter without fan and run it off the cigarette lighter port we installed for the prior tv. Since it's just the TV, the inverter doesn't need a fan and doesn't make any noise (audible or RF interference for the audio system in the boat). When we are in marinas I just leave it plugged directly into the original outlet (for the old original analog flat screen that came with the boat).

 

[enfield]

PASS, OR PURSUE?

Been boat shopping for a while now. The search gained momentum when the wife stepped on board a 280 [that we hadn't arranged to see] and made encouraging noises. Last weekend we toured another 280 [a 2004] that encouraged her even more. On the down side, the two 5.0's showed 950 hours. On the up side, canvas and glass were good, carpet is new, all the gauges work, engines and genny started and ran smoothly, and the upholstery showed well except for one lightly distressed corner on the portside cockpit lounge. Haven't seen maintenance records yet, but the seller seems to have replaced the usual items at appropriate intervals. Transom assemblies, ignition parts, batteries, holding tank, water heater and more have all been replaced recently; he said risers etc were on the schedule for replacement this year. Bilge was clean, but it had a rank smell and about a gallon of water when he opened the cover. Wife declined a sea trial as winds were over 20 knots that day.

Seller's mechanic is supposed to do a compression check, and I have asked for him to do a scan to show service history and past usage [don't really know if SmartCraft supports this]. Anything he can else he can easily do when performing those tests?

So, should I pursue a possible purchase, or pass because of engine hours? Seller hasn't replaced the B3's in 8 years of ownership, but overall tidiness of the visible stuff suggests that he has kept up with maintenance and anti-corrosion. The boat gets annual copper coat, is slipped for the season in a ~5 ppm Chesapeake tributary, and then gets shrink-wrapped on the hard for the winter. Seller says he bought it as a lake boat out of Orlando. He seems reasonably well motivated, too. I'm not buying without a haul but am considering taking a salty pal along instead of hiring a surveyor.

All responses, anecdotes, and miscellaneous advice welcomed,

enfield

 

[Lazy Daze]

From your description, enfield, it sounds like a good boat. The hours are a relativley useless data point - maintenance history is more important. Also, the fact that he hasn't replaced the drives in 8 years is a non-issue, as well. They don't get replaced "on a regular basis"... they get replaced if they're neglected.

 

[Gunn]

PASS, OR PURSUE?

All responses, anecdotes, and miscellaneous advice welcomed,

enfield

Sounds like a beautiful boat to me! Those engine hours aren't bad. And I would tend to think that that boat has been used often enough that it works. I think it's always more worrisome to purchase one that hasn't been used in a long time. Then you don't know what you're going to get.

 

[Gunn]

Finally, a new steering wheel to remove the old cracked and rusted one! Five minute change and $142.00. I think it's in keeping with the look of the original and feels great. I would have saved $36 if I could have found a wheel where I could reuse the existing hub adapter (this wheel has a 70mm circle pattern, the old I think was 74mm), but that's ok. Much better than trying to find an original for $$$.

Tom

 

[Cuins]

I know a lot has been written about running a remote wire from the helm to the radio via the engine room. Has anyone ever tried running from the helm and around or over the rear berth into the mirrored cabinet to the radio?
Thanks
2002 280DA

 

[Lazy Daze]

I know a lot has been written about running a remote wire from the helm to the radio via the engine room. Has anyone ever tried running from the helm and around or over the rear berth into the mirrored cabinet to the radio?
Thanks
2002 280DA

You would creating a lot more work for yourself by doing that.

 

[AlexK]

PASS, OR PURSUE?

Been boat shopping for a while now. The search gained momentum when the wife stepped on board a 280 [that we hadn't arranged to see] and made encouraging noises. Last weekend we toured another 280 [a 2004] that encouraged her even more. On the down side, the two 5.0's showed 950 hours. On the up side, canvas and glass were good, carpet is new, all the gauges work, engines and genny started and ran smoothly, and the upholstery showed well except for one lightly distressed corner on the portside cockpit lounge. Haven't seen maintenance records yet, but the seller seems to have replaced the usual items at appropriate intervals. Transom assemblies, ignition parts, batteries, holding tank, water heater and more have all been replaced recently; he said risers etc were on the schedule for replacement this year. Bilge was clean, but it had a rank smell and about a gallon of water when he opened the cover. Wife declined a sea trial as winds were over 20 knots that day.

Seller's mechanic is supposed to do a compression check, and I have asked for him to do a scan to show service history and past usage [don't really know if SmartCraft supports this]. Anything he can else he can easily do when performing those tests?

So, should I pursue a possible purchase, or pass because of engine hours? Seller hasn't replaced the B3's in 8 years of ownership, but overall tidiness of the visible stuff suggests that he has kept up with maintenance and anti-corrosion. The boat gets annual copper coat, is slipped for the season in a ~5 ppm Chesapeake tributary, and then gets shrink-wrapped on the hard for the winter. Seller says he bought it as a lake boat out of Orlando. He seems reasonably well motivated, too. I'm not buying without a haul but am considering taking a salty pal along instead of hiring a surveyor.

All responses, anecdotes, and miscellaneous advice welcomed,

enfield

Sounds almost exactly like a boat that I purchased. Mine is 2003, but it is pretty much the same boat. Great boat, we love it. Even same engine hours. Hours doesn't matter, what matters is how it was maintained. Find out when manifolds and risers were last changed. Also, it is guaranteed that you will find some small things to fix given the age. We did. Did you have a marine surveyor do the inspection? If not, it is an absolute must before the purchase. And it is the inspector that you hire, not the seller. And seller's mechanic doesn't qualify.

 

[Gunn]

I know a lot has been written about running a remote wire from the helm to the radio via the engine room. Has anyone ever tried running from the helm and around or over the rear berth into the mirrored cabinet to the radio?
Thanks
2002 280DA

Shouldn't be a big deal. You can remove the panel on the starboard side of the mid-berth and look up and see the throttle controls, and some wires leading to the helm. So I'd imagine it would be pretty straightforward to then run wires across to the mirrored cabinet on the other side of the mid-berth.

 

[just1time]

Just thought I'd post this in case anyone is looking to upgrade their arch lights. Got it on Amazon. Comes in a pack of 4 and Cost me $29 CAD. Install took less than 2mins for each bulb.
There are four lights in the cockpit area. 2 below in the foot area and 2 in the arch. These will only work for the arch bulbs. I was disappointed when I opened the ones below in the foot area and realized they are different. They are single-end bulbs.
Not sure what I can upgrade those to but I will do more research. In the meantime these are a nice simple easy upgrade that transforms the boat. They come with a remote. There are about 20 Colors you can change each bulb to, and they can be changed independent of each other or can be matched.They can be set to alternate through all the colours or set to stay solid on one color.. Pretty cool.

 

[Jeff Delbuono]

Awesome, love it. You have perko lights in your arch, you can swap out the floor ones with the same style to make them match. This is what you need but can go to aftermarket too to save some boat bucks

 

[Gunn]

That's pretty cool. I have had the Apeiron tri-color lights in my arch (blue, red, white) for over a decade. They were well over $100 back then! And since they didn't match with the lower lights, I just had blue LED lights down there.

Between the two of you, you've found the perfect low-cost setup!

Direct link to bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/Festoon-Control-Replacement-License-Courtesy/dp/B08L3VDDL7
Direct link to housing: https://www.amazon.com/Perko-Stern-Light-Flush-Mount/dp/B0009TTPIA

 

[just1time]

I would be ok with the two cockpit/stern lights being white. Don't need them to have the changing color effects like the arch lights.
Is there a white bulb I can change them to to avoid rewiring and changing the whole thing?
Otherwise, I saw these on amazon, I would have to cut the wires to connect them.

https://www.amazon.ca/Waterproof-Na...sprefix=perks+stern+light,aps,75&sr=8-12&th=1

 

[just1time]

That's pretty cool. I have had the Apeiron tri-color lights in my arch (blue, red, white) for over a decade. They were well over $100 back then! And since they didn't match with the lower lights, I just had blue LED lights down there.

Between the two of you, you've found the perfect low-cost setup!

I would prefer white down there. Reason being I noticed every time the arch light switched to blue LED, bugs gravitated towards it like ant on sugar.

 

[royalpiper]

I would be ok with the two cockpit/stern lights being white. Don't need them to have the changing color effects like the arch lights.
Is there a white bulb I can change them to to avoid rewiring and changing the whole thing?
Otherwise, I saw these on amazon, I would have to cut the wires to connect them.

https://www.amazon.ca/Waterproof-Navigation-Courtesy-Interior-Sailboat/dp/B095GJCFXF/ref=sr_1_12?crid=2RC3G49A8P5Q6&keywords=perks+stern+light&qid=1656596710&sprefix=perks+stern+light,aps,75&sr=8-12&th=1

I have those in blue, working well so far 2 seasons in.
Easy install, good luck.

 

[just1time]

Here is some more info on some tiny repair I did. Might help someone down the line. Toilet seat was broken at hinges.
I got white hinges off Amazon and installed. Took 5mins. doesn’t match but it’s not an eyesore. Cheap fix for fully functional seats.