Official 290 Sundancer Thread

That is EXACTLY what I am looking to do. I have two old Raymarine C70s now. Where did you get the panels from? (and the steering wheel). Looks great!
 
Looks awesome. Lots of ideas there. The C80 cutout height is larger than 9" Axioms.
A few additional questions:
1. Any idea where you plan to mount the transducer?
2. Did you use the Mercruiser smartcraft to nmea convertor or something else? I'm looking at the converter from yachtdevices
3. Is the smartcraft transducer fast enough to plot over time? No idea how quick that updates.
4. Axiom+ just came out and the only advantage from what I can tell is they are brighter. I'm thinking the 290 dash is fairly shaded with the large arch and canvas. Any reason to want brighter screens?

I would love to do a 12" + 9", but can't justify paying double for even one. I think they also come right up the edges of the backboard so not sure if it will look good.
 
That is EXACTLY what I am looking to do. I have two old Raymarine C70s now. Where did you get the panels from? (and the steering wheel). Looks great!

Thanks! I really do love the way it turned out!

The panels are made by Tecnografic out of Ft Lauderdale, FL. They are the original manufacturer for Sea Ray for these helm panels. My electronics panel was broken in the lower corner, so I had Tecnografic just make me a whole new one. They have all the original template's on file, so my new one fit like a glove! Plus he laid out the Axiom 9's for me and sent me the preview to make sure I was happy with the spacing and layout. While I was at it, I sent them my top gauge panel and the switch pad covers to have them redo the coating on those to match the new panel I was having them make. The panels are hydro dipped from Tecnografic...so if your panels are in good shape and just want to change the look. Anyone who specializes in hydro dipping can redo them for you.

I'll have to look where I got the steering wheel...I know it's a Uflex steering wheel. They have a Italian lineup that I picked it out of. It's faux black leather...looks good and feels good though. I'm happy with it, especially for the price!
 
Looks awesome. Lots of ideas there. The C80 cutout height is larger than 9" Axioms.
A few additional questions:
1. Any idea where you plan to mount the transducer?
2. Did you use the Mercruiser smartcraft to nmea convertor or something else? I'm looking at the converter from yachtdevices
3. Is the smartcraft transducer fast enough to plot over time? No idea how quick that updates.
4. Axiom+ just came out and the only advantage from what I can tell is they are brighter. I'm thinking the 290 dash is fairly shaded with the large arch and canvas. Any reason to want brighter screens?

I would love to do a 12" + 9", but can't justify paying double for even one. I think they also come right up the edges of the backboard so not sure if it will look good.

I'm planning on mounting it on the transom just to the starboard side of the garboard drain. There is a clean spot that is clear of strakes and thru hulls that should allow it to work fairly well. If it works up to 26 mph or so I'll be happy. If not I do have my trusty Smartcraft depth sounder for speeds over whatever the Raymarine won't work. So I'm not sweating it honestly. Like you, I'm not looking to fish or anything crazy. The deal they had when I bought mine was the same price with the depth sounder as the one without. So I figured what the heck...why not LoL

I did use the Mercury Smartcraft to NMEA converter. Plugged in and worked perfect! We have a extra plug behind the helm that's labeled "steering wheel". You can plug the converter into that plug and it works perfectly.

It updates very quickly...not sure what the actual refresh rate is. But it is always on par with my Smartcraft gauge readout.

I don't feel like I need any brighter honestly...the panels are pretty darn bright already! They did just update the firmware this month. Added a few new options that are pretty cool.

My OCD wouldn't allow me to run 2 differnet size MFD's right next to each other LoL It would drive me crazy! Honestly I'd just have Tecnografic cut you out a new panel or have someone local that makes signs do it. They are just acrylic sheets that have been hydro dipped. Hope that helps!
 
Thanks for the info! Btw..Is that extra plug a place that I could plug in the Mercury Vessel View? I took the panel off and there are two 4 bank ports, which both looked full. So I ordered a 6 port bank and was planning to replace it. However, this might be easier. I really need to take it all apart and do what you did with that Axioms. Might be a winter project! For now I would love to just hook up the Vessel View.
 
Thanks for the info! Btw..Is that extra plug a place that I could plug in the Mercury Vessel View? I took the panel off and there are two 4 bank ports, which both looked full. So I ordered a 6 port bank and was planning to replace it. However, this might be easier. I really need to take it all apart and do what you did with that Axioms. Might be a winter project! For now I would love to just hook up the Vessel View.

Yes you should be able to hook up the vessel view at that plug as well.
 
Quick question...has anyone ever ran a cable from the helm to the electrical distribution panel? I'm redoing my main electrical panel with my stereo upgrade. Which I went with the Fusion radio with NMEA 2K functionality...but now I need to get a NMEA cable over there. Going to start on this tomorrow afternoon...but didn't know if anyone has attempted this already. I'd like to use the old Clarion wired remote wire as a pull cable...but Sea Ray did a good job of securing all the cable bundles tightly. So I don't see that working too well...as in not at all LoL
 
Quick question...has anyone ever ran a cable from the helm to the electrical distribution panel? I'm redoing my main electrical panel with my stereo upgrade. Which I went with the Fusion radio with NMEA 2K functionality...but now I need to get a NMEA cable over there. Going to start on this tomorrow afternoon...but didn't know if anyone has attempted this already. I'd like to use the old Clarion wired remote wire as a pull cable...but Sea Ray did a good job of securing all the cable bundles tightly. So I don't see that working too well...as in not at all LoL
Following this! I am very curious also. I agree, all the cables are zip tied together and I cant find a way to use one as a pull. Please take some pictures as you go.
 
Hey folks some time ago there was a few looking for a replacement display for their Lowrance 3500.

I'm having my depth finder replaced because of a bad transducer but the display is in great shape.

I'm having the marina keep the display for me so if anyone needs it please let me know.
 
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Hi LDII - timing is everything and your last post is spot on for my issue. I have a new to me '94 Sundancer 270 with the OEM Lowrance 3500 depth finder as well. The shoot-thru-the-hull transducer is the problem, it's totally shot. My options are to either see if I can replace the OE Lowrance transducer and keep the OE Lowrance head unit (which I'm not a huge fan cuz it's not in the captain's direct field of view) or go the replacement route with something different on the head unit (possibly full color with fish-finder), but using a new shoot thru-the-hull transducer attached at or near the old one.

Myself, and others I'm sure, would love to hear the specifics about your plans for how you want to do your new depth finder set up, what type, make, model, etc., and maybe some details on the installation, any issues that came up, and most importantly, how well did it turn out after it was done? Pics would be awesome!!

Currently, I'm running my boat on a lake that I know very well so the lack of a depth finder this season is not critical at all, but I intend to take her to new places, specifically in or near the ocean next season where not having a working depth finder is not an option.

Thanks and keep up with your awesome posts - I'v really enjoyed reading many of them!
- Jed from New Jersey
 
Well the only way I found to run a network cable from the helm to the electrical distribution panel. Was to go towards the stern on the starboard side...into the engine room and over to port above the generator. Then forward toward the bow through the bulkhead were all the other wires pass through. Pull the access panels out of the aft cabin cabinets on the port side, it makes reaching the inside section of that bulkhead a breeze. After that it’s a short run to the electrical panel. Hope that helps someone
 
Hi LDII - timing is everything and your last post is spot on for my issue. I have a new to me '94 Sundancer 270 with the OEM Lowrance 3500 depth finder as well. The shoot-thru-the-hull transducer is the problem, it's totally shot.

I just needed something simple and to get my boat back in the water after being out for 2 weeks this was the option the marina could install quickly. It comes in 3 different styles.... I was offered white or black but I see now there was also a black with a chrome ring which I probably would have picked if they could get one quickly. The only problem they had was the thru hull needed an adapter to fit properly into the old transducer area which the mechanic made on site. I bet it was just a spacer of some sort.

Thanks for the complement ...... I'm glad I can be additive to the cause.

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Hey folks some time ago there was a few looking for a replacement display for their Lowrance 3500.

I'm having my depth finder replaced because of a bad transducer but the display is in great shape.

I'm having the marina keep the display for me so if anyone needs it please let me know.
Still available?? Jason
 
Question for the group.

I had my boat worked on a few weeks ago which required the port engine (5.0) to be removed.

Last weekend I was out zipping around at about 4K RPM and I had an engine alarm go off. Pulled the throttles to idle the engine alarm stopped and during this time I noticed my temp gauge went from 170 to zero...... and then back to 170 which is normal temp for my boat.

I checks all the fluids, pushed on most of the connectors I could reach w/o getting burned and everything looked like it was in place. Started back up and off I went w/o issue the rest of the day even after taking a nice long ride at about 3500 RPM enjoying the smooth water.

Fluke, Loose wire, or is there something specific I need to look at the next time I'm at the boat. Does the alarm system even go off if it looses signal from the temp sender?
 
Did you happen to look at both temp gages before slowing down? Sometimes a bad impeller (or softer material) can cause overheating at higher RPMs, but they will cool quickly as soon as you back down. Had this exact problem with Sierra impellers...
 
Did you happen to look at both temp gages before slowing down?

When the alarm went off I was like WTF and panicked for a few seconds then looked at my gauges to asses and the only one that looked like it fluctuated was the port temperature.... down and then back up again. I'll have to keep an eye on it whenever I go for a zoom zoom next weekend.

Before starting out and while it's cold I'll go through the connections again just to make sure everything is seated properly.

The port engine was the one that was just removed and put back in a few weeks ago to install the new transom assembly.
 
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Well what started out as a simple radio upgrade....quickly escalated into a whole new electrical distribution panel Had my buddy laser cut me a new panel with some custom work. Turned out great and the new Fusion radio is awesome. Plus it is networked into my Axioms so full control from the helm is always cool. Rewired some stuff while I was in there, and got her back together

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