Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Rosson Richardson said:
Floating yesterday and heard a loud buzzing alarm from behind switch console. When I removed console I was able to isolate it down to this little guy. Turned off perkos and it buzzing. Killed all possible power and it kept buzzing. Clearly wired to battery. It looks aftermarket to me and I can't seem to find what system it controls. Everything on boat works just fine without it wired up as far as I can tell. Any thoughts as to what this is or what to goes to?View attachment 111300 View attachment 111301
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Bilge pump alarm? That is generally what is wired direct to the batteries bypassing the switch. Was your bilge pump by chance running at the time?
 
Creekwood said:
Bilge pump alarm? That is generally what is wired direct to the batteries bypassing the switch. Was your bilge pump by chance running at the time?
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Hmmm...You might be on to something. I disconnected it and the bilge remained functional BUT when we were getting off of the boat I could hear the bilge 'dry pumping.' I climbed into the bilge and the drain hose was loose so water was circulating in the bilge but not being pumped out. I resecured it and the water pumped out. Weird thing is that it really did not sound like an alarm. More like a shorted-out electrical circuit..which is what a bilge alarm is, I suppose.

I am going to run down to reattach it see if that is what it is. Good call. Not sure how I didn't connect the dots on that one...
 
Rosson Richardson said:
Hmmm...You might be on to something. I disconnected it and the bilge remained functional BUT when we were getting off of the boat I could hear the bilge 'dry pumping.' I climbed into the bilge and the drain hose was loose so water was circulating in the bilge but not being pumped out. I resecured it and the water pumped out. Weird thing is that it really did not sound like an alarm. More like a shorted-out electrical circuit..which is what a bilge alarm is, I suppose.

I am going to run down to reattach it see if that is what it is. Good call. Not sure how I didn't connect the dots on that one...
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Those are cheap buzzers. If its failed, replace it. They are there for a reason. You want to hear it if you are running on plane and taking on water for some reason. The light on the bilge pump switch (thin blue light) is also wired so it comes on if the automatic pump is activated. But its really hard to see that light when it comes on. Thus the buzzer.
 
Creekwood is correct on what that is. However, it is only connected to the high water bilge pump(at least on our 1999 it is). Were both pumps running?
 
Wanted to bring this to the top, just closed on a 97 330 Sundancer. Looking for any general advice on ownership and maintenance, though first project is install a nmea 2k network after reviewing some posts here, and connecting back to route engine data, radio, vhf back to an 8612xsv.
 
EmeraldStar said:
Wanted to bring this to the top, just closed on a 97 330 Sundancer. Looking for any general advice on ownership and maintenance, though first project is install a nmea 2k network after reviewing some posts here, and connecting back to route engine data, radio, vhf back to an 8612xsv.
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I have been trying to find a local place around Annapolis to do this, so far unable to find one, its annoying me.

As for maintenance....what engines do you have? so far mine is just the usual spring/winter stuff and spending way too much $$$ to upgrade eveything. ha.
 
DCsnoWWake said:
I have been trying to find a local place around Annapolis to do this, so far unable to find one, its annoying me.
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Call Jim at BOE Marine. He is the CSR site owner also and I'm sure they can take care of all of your electronics and installation needs, not to mention a probable CSR member discount.
  • 325 Cleat St
  • Stevensville, MD 21666
**Mobile Service Available with our fleet of service vehicles

https://www.boemarine.com/boe-marine-service-department-electronics-installations.
 
techmitch said:
Call Jim at BOE Marine. He is the CSR site owner also and I'm sure they can take care of all of your electronics and installation needs, not to mention a probable CSR member discount.
  • 325 Cleat St
  • Stevensville, MD 21666
**Mobile Service Available with our fleet of service vehicles

https://www.boemarine.com/boe-marine-service-department-electronics-installations.
Click to expand...


@DCsnoWWake I second calling Jim, or if you are free... visit their booth at the sailboat show this weekend. Jim sold me my entire Garmin suite back in 2011, and was great at helping me figure out everything I needed while comparing the pros/cons of each brand and product. They had the best prices (including boat show discount at the time). Vance who did the install was amazing. Took his time but got the entire setup installed in one afternoon. Kept things clean, even while roto tooling out the fiberglass helm to fit. You wouldn't have known he was there afterward, and the install looked factory. 100% recommend.

I have considered doing the same, but haven't put it high enough on the priority list yet. I've also seen some of the wifi gateway stuff that's come out recently which can transmit to a tablet as well. Will be following, so please keep us updated on your progress and choices.
 
Compare 2011 with 2010
I'm looking to buy stern driven 330 (mag350). I've found 2. The only difference is one has the Kenyon grill and blue bottom (the 2011). Is there any difference between the two years. I can't find any differences except for propulsion options. Did they work more kinks out of the axius systems by then?
Both have low hours ~350-400. Anything I should look for specifically when I get on the boat?
I don't know if there are known issues with these.
Thanks alot!

Duane
 
Hello everyone,
I need some help with the fridge in the 1996 searay 330;
I have the power on, shore and battery with the a/c converter on.
I left the fridge on for a number of day while docked.
I came back today to find that the fridge is not working (and the drinks and stuff all all spoiled).
However, the power button at the bottom of the fridge has the green light on, and the temp is set to #3.

in my very ignorant opinion, this could be one of two things:
The fridge is done for good, or maybe a breaker went out.
Can anyone let me know where the breaker for the fridge is? Or what is the easiest way to replace this fridge? I think this is the original one to the vessel. It’s a norcold model DE-541

thanks!
Amd my apologies if I sound like I don’t know what I’m talking about…but it’s true. I don’t ;)
 
Luis said:
Hello everyone,
I need some help with the fridge in the 1996 searay 330;
I have the power on, shore and battery with the a/c converter on.
I left the fridge on for a number of day while docked.
I came back today to find that the fridge is not working (and the drinks and stuff all all spoiled).
However, the power button at the bottom of the fridge has the green light on, and the temp is set to #3.

in my very ignorant opinion, this could be one of two things:
The fridge is done for good, or maybe a breaker went out.
Can anyone let me know where the breaker for the fridge is? Or what is the easiest way to replace this fridge? I think this is the original one to the vessel. It’s a norcold model DE-541

thanks!
Amd my apologies if I sound like I don’t know what I’m talking about…but it’s true. I don’t ;)
Click to expand...
There are two breakers for the fridge. There is one switch for when it is on shorepower (one of the 120v parts of the power panel) and one for when it is on battery power (12v part of the panel). The fridge will prioritize using 120v AC if it is getting that power. It will switch to 12v if the 120v power goes out.

Its possible that the fridge is dead, but I think they can sometimes be repaired. I ended up replacing mine with a Nova Kool model (5810) that is larger and uses less power. There are other good options that I am sure people will tell you about.
 
Creekwood said:
There are two breakers for the fridge. There is one switch for when it is on shorepower (one of the 120v parts of the power panel) and one for when it is on battery power (12v part of the panel). The fridge will prioritize using 120v AC if it is getting that power. It will switch to 12v if the 120v power goes out.

Its possible that the fridge is dead, but I think they can sometimes be repaired. I ended up replacing mine with a Nova Kool model (5810) that is larger and uses less power. There are other good options that I am sure people will tell you about.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much. Both breakers showed to be on. I assume they would “trip” like they do in a regular panel?
My guess is that the fridge has seen better days.

thanks so much
Luis
 
Duane Kimball said:
Compare 2011 with 2010
I'm looking to buy stern driven 330 (mag350). I've found 2. The only difference is one has the Kenyon grill and blue bottom (the 2011). Is there any difference between the two years. I can't find any differences except for propulsion options. Did they work more kinks out of the axius systems by then?
Both have low hours ~350-400. Anything I should look for specifically when I get on the boat?
I don't know if there are known issues with these.
Thanks alot!

Duane
Click to expand...
Blue bottom = Bottom paint? Or did you mean blue colored hull? If colored hull, they look great (love mine) but definitely a lot more work to keep it looking good and oxidation free. Regular compounding 2x a season unless you keep up with it in-between. That may tip your hand to going one way or the other.
 
JimFromMD said:
Blue bottom = Bottom paint? Or did you mean blue colored hull? If colored hull, they look great (love mine) but definitely a lot more work to keep it looking good and oxidation free. Regular compounding 2x a season unless you keep up with it in-between. That may tip your hand to going one way or the other.
Click to expand...
It's the blue paint..so I know polishing work...
 
Luis said:
Hello everyone,
I need some help with the fridge in the 1996 searay 330;
I have the power on, shore and battery with the a/c converter on.
I left the fridge on for a number of day while docked.
I came back today to find that the fridge is not working (and the drinks and stuff all all spoiled).
However, the power button at the bottom of the fridge has the green light on, and the temp is set to #3.

in my very ignorant opinion, this could be one of two things:
The fridge is done for good, or maybe a breaker went out.
Can anyone let me know where the breaker for the fridge is? Or what is the easiest way to replace this fridge? I think this is the original one to the vessel. It’s a norcold model DE-541

thanks!
Amd my apologies if I sound like I don’t know what I’m talking about…but it’s true. I don’t ;)
Click to expand...


I just went through this very thing. The green light was on but the refrigerator was not cooling. Turns out it was the compressor. Mine being a 1999. the refrigerator is obviously discontinued. Look at post 2874 here from @rumrunner. I replaced mine with: Isotherm Cruise 130 Elegance Black AC/DC - 4.6 cu.ft., Black door, 3-Side Flange × 1 through www.mmarineonline.com

Let me know if you have any trouble.
 
Rosson Richardson said:
I just went through this very thing. The green light was on but the refrigerator was not cooling. Turns out it was the compressor. Mine being a 1999. the refrigerator is obviously discontinued. Look at post 2874 here from @rumrunner. I replaced mine with: Isotherm Cruise 130 Elegance Black AC/DC - 4.6 cu.ft., Black door, 3-Side Flange × 1 through www.mmarineonline.com

Let me know if you have any trouble.
Click to expand...
Wow. Thanks so much.
I’ve read horror stories about how these don’t fit through the entry to the cabin. Did you have any issues?
 
No problem getting the unit into the boat. Getting the old unit out, however, is a different story. Suffice it to say that it is still in the boat. I took the door off. Still too big. Now I need to carve out the time to disassemble the compressor and other parts from the back of the unit. I should be able to get it out without assistance once that is completed.

I will try to get to marina to take some photos for you. The unit rests ~ 3" from top of cabinet. I am going to have to create some shims to lift it 3" so I can secure it to cabinet. Not a huge deal. @rumrunner framed his out great and I am going to try to duplicate his work.
 
@Luis If you are looking for an alternative, I installed a Nova Kool 5810 on my 330. It’s actually 5.8 cu ft capacity and required me to cut the top edge of the cabinet by about 1/2”. It required a small amount of bending of the insulated cover on the back lower right corner to fit back on the stringer on mine. Here is a link to a few earlier threads about the install. Others have installed Vitrifrigo’s with good results.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/hull-question-about-a-1996-330-sundancer.50925/

And here is my install:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/1997-330-da-refrigerator-replacement.73651/#post-837452
 
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