Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Ummm.. Well they both have aft cabins but one has more room in the engine room. The I/O boat has the transmission hanging off the transom in the water while the inboard transmission is in the engine room.

95 was the change over year. Then there were evolutions around mostly cosmetic changes from there. I personally prefer the 97-99 range mainly for the helm and neutral interiors that seem to age well over time. But hey I'm biased.

Had I/O in our old boat I find I like the inboard more less maintenance no gimbal bearings to lube, no shift bellows to leak, no exhaust bellows to leak, most likely raw water cooling on the I/Os, and the hurth transmissions in the inboard are very smooth shifting.
 
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Ummm.. Well they both have aft cabins but one has more room in the engine room. The I/O boat has the transmission hanging off the transom in the water while the inboard transmission is in the engine room.

95 was the change over year. Then there were evolutions around mostly cosmetic changes from there. I personally prefer the 97-99 range mainly for the helm and neutral interiors that seem to age well over time. But hey I'm biased.

Had I/O in our old boat I find I like the inboard more less maintenance no gimbal bearings to lube, no shift bellows to leak, no exhaust bellows to leak, most likely raw water cooling on the I/Os, and the hurth transmissions in the inboard are very smooth shifting.

I echo Tom's comments. The reason the inboards fit is because they use vDrives. The engines are flipped around with the waterpumps facing aft. The transmissions are then at the foreward side and have a V setup to connect back to the prop shaft. However, then engines are placed more towards the forward side of the engine room compared to I/Os and when you look at one you will see how cramped the engine room is and that access to the water pumps and alternators etc is more difficult. That means mush more awkward DIY maintenance and a bit more $$ to get waterpumps and impellers changed if you pay a mechanic (which is why you must have a mechanic check the engines or get solid evididence of this work being done in case the prev owner bawked at the cost of this maintenance.

All of that said, I would take vDrives over I/O on this size boat. The pro's outweigh the cons in my mind.
 
I've been getting a small amount of water intrusion in my forward V-berth compartment and wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. It's never much but it is annoying. The foam backing (on the wall covering material) underneath the bedboard at the v of the hull is wet and drips the water into the compartment. I don't see how any water can be coming in from the anchor locker, besides the locker has it's own drain. All of my rubrail seems to be sealed fine as well. Anybody have any thoughts on how it is getting in?
 
Agreed. The biggest pro with the IOs would be a little better fuel economy and maybe a knot or two faster cruise. But maintenance on the drives sucks. I hated painting those drives. Maneuvering around the docks will be better with v drives. My last boat was the last IO boat I'll ever own.

Also the 97-99 models had nicer interior fabrics too. No cloth.

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Well..boat has been in for a week now. Enjoyed our first weekend on her. Downside.... Started to get gear clatter from port Hurth vdrive transmission. No clatter in nuetral, no clatter after I put load to it in forward at about 1100 rpm. It's even worse in reverse. Anyone with similar problem ? It's a Hurth vdrive 630v (1993 model) it is such a sickening sound. I think our 2 week excursion to st.Lawrence is gonna be cancelled.. anyone with any knowledge ?

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Well..boat has been in for a week now. Enjoyed our first weekend on her. Downside.... Started to get gear clatter from port Hurth vdrive transmission. No clatter in nuetral, no clatter after I put load to it in forward at about 1100 rpm. It's even worse in reverse. Anyone with similar problem ? It's a Hurth vdrive 630v (1993 model) it is such a sickening sound. I think our 2 week excursion to st.Lawrence is gonna be cancelled.. anyone with any knowledge ?

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Do some searching on this site. Others have had similar issues with a simple fix. If you have a rough idle and need a tune up including new plugs, wires and cap, it sometimes causes clatter from the transmission due to vibration. Have a mechanic check it and if you have not done a good tune up and replaced those things try that before you get too worried.
 
Well..boat has been in for a week now. Enjoyed our first weekend on her. Downside.... Started to get gear clatter from port Hurth vdrive transmission. No clatter in nuetral, no clatter after I put load to it in forward at about 1100 rpm. It's even worse in reverse. Anyone with similar problem ? It's a Hurth vdrive 630v (1993 model) it is such a sickening sound. I think our 2 week excursion to st.Lawrence is gonna be cancelled.. anyone with any knowledge ?

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Yep had your same issue. A tune up may work I've been told that causes the issue. If the sound goes away at 1100 rpm then I would not be too worried about it. I used to set my slow cruise at 1100 and the sound would go away. It is an unnerving sound.

So far I also found that the transmission would not shift into gear at idle and it had to be revved up a bit before it engaged.

So last year I had the filter and fluid changed and what difference that made. The transmission shifts at idle smoothly and no clatter. I do get a whine at low rpm but I was told that is because one of the transmissions runs in reverse all the time.

In simple terms check is the dipstick make sure it is tight and making a good seal. The transmission pressuizes and if it can't hold the pressure you might get that clatter. You need to twist the t handle then pull out the stick then reverse it to put it back in. I had a heck of a time figuring that out when I brought the boat. Even the service manager at Marine Max did not know how to do that!
 
Talked to friends who have 300 DA. They had same problem, symptoms as us last year with their v drives. Reputable marina diagnosed it as a strut bearing. They fixed it for $650. I'm hoping this is all it is. They had same issue down to the " T".

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Now that I think about it when I was looking over everything before we launched, I did note to myself and my wife that the strut bearings didn't look healthy. Thought to myself they would have to be changed next season. Looks like it will be earlier than I thought.

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most likely if the tuneup does not fix, you have a flex plate minus a spring or 2. part is cheap approx $300
labor is what kills you. you have to pull the engine/ or disengage the transmission to fix. the flex plate smooths out vibration to transmission at under approx 1100 rpm which is why you only hear the clinking when at low speed and reverse
 
Talked to friends who have 300 DA. They had same problem, symptoms as us last year with their v drives. Reputable marina diagnosed it as a strut bearing. They fixed it for $650. I'm hoping this is all it is. They had same issue down to the " T".

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I'd put money on it that a tune up will fix the problem. I had this issue 2 summers ago. Man can that clattering sound drive you crazy or what! :smt021 I used to tell people as I was manevuring into my slip that I had rocks in my transmission...

I did a quick tune up on my starboard engine, the troubled engine, plugs, cap/rotor and I bought new plug wires, but never put them on. This did help some. The noise was much quieter, and frankly at 700 rpms both my trannys have always made a little noise. So that winter I had both my carbs rebuilt as I was not sure when the last time they were done. And that did the trick. Boat runs my smoother now and no tranny noise. :smt038 So I would say try the tune up, if the problem persists consider carb rebuilds before you start pulling engines to get at the trannys. Good luck!
 
UPDATE on progress with the new Dash Panels

We were blessed with a warm sunny weekend and I made some progress on the dash panels. I only managed to install the one lower one. It was a slow tedious process, one at a time, pull wires, remove switch and install in new panel and connect wires. As I went across it got tighter in space but it worked out in the end. Here is a before, during and after pictures.

They look great, although mine did not fit perfectly as you will see in the photo. The upper left and right at the top is too high by about 1/8in. That is why in the picture I only installed the centre screws. I think I can use a palm sander to carefully blend it down so it will fit nicely, but I did not bring it to the boat. Unfortunately by installing the way I did, I only found out at the end. I think the top one has the same issue. I can try fitting that one easier because the gauges don't sit out as far as the switches do on the lower one. Its a real nuisance but what can I do at this stage. It will be great once they are done.

Before:

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During:
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After:
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That looks great. Which vendor did you purchase them from??


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yep looks real good. I also had to do a few minor sanding jobs to get it just right. I wound up using a small dremel and grinding wheel.
 
Creekwood did you buy new backlighted tape or reuse what was there? I have new panels also to out of the and a am a curious if I can reuse the light stripe that is there as it works well. Thanks!
 
Creekwood did you buy new backlighted tape or reuse what was there? I have new panels also to out of the and a am a curious if I can reuse the light stripe that is there as it works well. Thanks!

I reused the existing strips but they aren't mounted well yet. I am going to try aluminum duct tape next.
 
Looks good Frank.

Paul
 
Okay, I give up. I need to replace my power engine hatch lift. But my boat is 170 miles away. Does anyone know the size, lift length, manuf., model #...? I know I'm not asking for much! LOL! Especially since I could have gotten all this information yesterday before I left the gorge.
 

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