Official 350 Thread

[1956olds]

Last call350 what are you replacing your push breakers with. I saw some nice ones a few years ago but couldnt get any at the time they were lighted with cut outs for each operation.

 

[LastCall350]

Last call350 what are you replacing your push breakers with. I saw some nice ones a few years ago but couldnt get any at the time they were lighted with cut outs for each operation.

I replaced the panels with repops from FP Marine, and I kept the same push button style breakers..you can buy new replacements from FP marine as I replaced a few of mine as they were showing their age but they are pricey at I believe $18 bucks a piece. Wish like hell sea ray would've put our DC panel breakers on the AC panel in the cabin like newer models.

 

[Beech2000]

Grrr frustrating to say the least! Maybe they learned the reason why they should always test run their work. Easy to reverse them on the bravo pumps, but that sucks because it's a tight job on our boats!

Mike (tech who screwed up) said easier to work on raw water pumps with electric fuel pump than with mechanical pumps.. Good to know

 

[Beech2000]

I replaced the panels with repops from FP Marine, and I kept the same push button style breakers..you can buy new replacements from FP marine as I replaced a few of mine as they were showing their age but they are pricey at I believe $18 bucks a piece. Wish like hell sea ray would've put our DC panel breakers on the AC panel in the cabin like newer models.

Yup I agree.
Grey and white wire to my electric chokes have no power while engines running. Where does this wire go to on our boats?

 

[LastCall350]

Mike (tech who screwed up) said easier to work on raw water pumps with electric fuel pump than with mechanical pumps.. Good to know

That is good to know, atleast they will get it taken care of tomorrow. You'll be boat riding next weekend!

 

[LastCall350]

Yup I agree.
Grey and white wire to my electric chokes have no power while engines running. Where does this wire go to on our boats?

Did you mean to say purple and white? The only gray wire I could think of that will be in our harness would be coming off of the coil for the tach lead.

 

[Beech2000]

Yes purple and white

 

[Beech2000]

Looking for some help.
So my new engines are installed and running pretty good.
Both Port and Stbd water temp gauges; I feel incorrectly read at over 240F. How do I know you ask?
Using a fluke infrared lazor, I measure 145-148 anywhere I check on the cooling system pieces such as water outlet, intake manifold, freeze plugs etc... Same is true for both engines. So my guess is the NAPA automotive temp sensors are incompatible for Sea Ray / Mercrusier
Can someone measure the resistance of the sending units for our boats with the engines at temp? I measure 37 ohms on both with engines running.
I tried looking up the correct part on MercruiserParts.com but no part number shown.

 

[Beech2000]

In effort to keep this tread alive I offer updates to our engine replacement upgrade.
I am happy to report our 90 350 is finally seaworthy and running good.

A Couple of lingering problems. So with previous posts you will recognize that I have indication discrepancies. Especially with regards to water temperature. This in part due to dry rotted insulators on sending units and sensors. (Leads wont properly tighten etc..)
With these aged challenges, I chose to source out new parts. I noted super hard to find correct items..... first attempt was the water temp sending units. I purchased sierra sensors sold under echelon (Napa). Supposedly compatible but in the end results were 100F off reading high.
I reinstalled the original worn units and today boat water temp was normal. Now 5.8 hours on new long blocks I had another last minuet shocker.
While coming into the marina; I was warned of her unhappiness. New warning was a sounded squeal and oil pressure alert light on port engine. I took notice that engine oil pressure was 75PSI so I continued on at idle. Once in slip I pulled port cover and noticed a broke wire off of a transmission sensor. It looks to be a similar alarm switch to that of water overtemp. Does our Hurth Transmissions have both pressure and temp sensors wired to audible alarm system? If yes why would a broken wire cause the alarm to sound.
I would love to purchase a full set of new sensors, and sending units of the correct part number for our boats.
Looks like out boats have lots of sensors and sending units. 8 total. Would FP marine be a good source? I'm so wishing for gauges and audible alarms to be accurate as new. Thanks for any help and or suggestions on the matter.

 

[SLB]

Hello all. I’m a newbie here, lots of interesting stories above. I just bought a 2017 350 Sundancer last fall. I’m looking to install a Raymarine Doppler and FLIR M232 camera on my hardtop. Any suggestions or insights from anyone who has attempted this on their own?

 

[LastCall350]

Finally got some pics of my finished dash remodel. Used FP Marines panels, the sea ray "legend" series gauges, installed 12" Garmin chart plotter, Garmin VHF, and new steering wheel from FP Marine as well. Got the majority of my "winter work" list knocked out, with the weather changing here in TN we are ready for some boating. Already have my next winter list growing!

 

[Timvail]

In effort to keep this tread alive I offer updates to our engine replacement upgrade.
I am happy to report our 90 350 is finally seaworthy and running good.

A Couple of lingering problems. So with previous posts you will recognize that I have indication discrepancies. Especially with regards to water temperature. This in part due to dry rotted insulators on sending units and sensors. (Leads wont properly tighten etc..)
With these aged challenges, I chose to source out new parts. I noted super hard to find correct items..... first attempt was the water temp sending units. I purchased sierra sensors sold under echelon (Napa). Supposedly compatible but in the end results were 100F off reading high.
I reinstalled the original worn units and today boat water temp was normal. Now 5.8 hours on new long blocks I had another last minuet shocker.
While coming into the marina; I was warned of her unhappiness. New warning was a sounded squeal and oil pressure alert light on port engine. I took notice that engine oil pressure was 75PSI so I continued on at idle. Once in slip I pulled port cover and noticed a broke wire off of a transmission sensor. It looks to be a similar alarm switch to that of water overtemp. Does our Hurth Transmissions have both pressure and temp sensors wired to audible alarm system? If yes why would a broken wire cause the alarm to sound.
I would love to purchase a full set of new sensors, and sending units of the correct part number for our boats.
Looks like out boats have lots of sensors and sending units. 8 total. Would FP marine be a good source? I'm so wishing for gauges and audible alarms to be accurate as new. Thanks for any help and or suggestions on the matter.

Did some checking in my neck of the woods (North), no luck so far.

 

[Beech2000]

Did some checking in my neck of the woods (North), no luck so far.

Ah the challenges of classic boat ownership and parts availability or lack of.
I now have about 8 hours on the new 454 long block engines.
Since splash and installation of the original water temp sensors, the gauges read normal.
Thanks for looking!

 

[Beech2000]

Finally got some pics of my finished dash remodel. Used FP Marines panels, the sea ray "legend" series gauges, installed 12" Garmin chart plotter, Garmin VHF, and new steering wheel from FP Marine as well. Got the majority of my "winter work" list knocked out, with the weather changing here in TN we are ready for some boating. Already have my next winter list growing!

Gorgeous. Definitely on the todo list..... but not this year

 

[Timvail]

Any chance you replaced your hot water tank to a larger capacity?

 

[Beech2000]

Not I. Someone might chime along and share otherwise.
I did change the water heater on "plenty of time" but didn't increase the capacity.
The New Kuuma water heater I installed this winter is quick to heat up, not sure I would need increased capacity either.
The two of us showered last night back to back (Bride wanted solo shower) with enough hot water left to do the dishes. All on a Honda EU2200i too on the overnight in a cove.

 

[Timvail]

Not I. Someone might chime along and share otherwise.
I did change the water heater on "plenty of time" but didn't increase the capacity.
The New Kuuma water heater I installed this winter is quick to heat up, not sure I would need increased capacity either.
The two of us showered last night back to back (Bride wanted solo shower) with enough hot water left to do the dishes. All on a Honda EU2200i too on the overnight in a cove.

Tks for the info. Exactly the info I was looking for.

 

[aross2566]

Hi everyone. I posted an issue I have with my 91 350/370, 454’s v-drives a couple years ago. My issue is when fresh start up, the port motor runs awful. After about 10 to 15 mins, it smooths out and runs perfect all day. The next morning the problem starts again. After 15 mins, it smooths out and runs all day, with no problem. I’ve replaced every electronic piece on the motor. I finally had a mechanic come out and he thought it was the carburetor. So he took both and rebuilt them. Same problem. He now thinks there is water leaking into a cylinder. Not enough to hydrolock the motor. Now he thinks it’s the riser that’s bad. I researched the risers. It’s reasonable to think they could be the problem. Could a bad intake gasket be bad and leaking in too? I’ve chased this problem for two years. Any suggestion?

 

[Beech2000]

Hi everyone. I posted an issue I have with my 91 350/370, 454’s v-drives a couple years ago. My issue is when fresh start up, the port motor runs awful. After about 10 to 15 mins, it smooths out and runs perfect all day. The next morning the problem starts again. After 15 mins, it smooths out and runs all day, with no problem. I’ve replaced every electronic piece on the motor. I finally had a mechanic come out and he thought it was the carburetor. So he took both and rebuilt them. Same problem. He now thinks there is water leaking into a cylinder. Not enough to hydrolock the motor. Now he thinks it’s the riser that’s bad. I researched the risers. It’s reasonable to think they could be the problem. Could a bad intake gasket be bad and leaking in too? I’ve chased this problem for two years. Any suggestion?

Engine troubles for me hopefully are a thing of the past. We too had previous difficulties with cold starts. Not just the boat but my surrounding dock neighbors. Smoke, constant high rev starts, etc.... with lots of stinky smoke everywhere.
Since then, I've made a purchase. Two new Michigan Motoz GM crate long blocks. While still Carberated, the classic boat start ups are improving daily.
With regards to questioning your troubleshooting steps thus far I can offer the following life experiences.
My Stbd engine was the same as your port. Tough start ups followed by a perfect day of running.
I can share that being an aircraft mechanic I own an $18000 fully articulating 4MM borescope.
What I found during borescope through Stbd Odd cyl bank spark plug holes was constant wetness and coupled with water in oil..(Milky).
Engines ran good once they were at operating temp which is hard to do in winter on lakes.
Long story short I found the end problem to be a faulty after market elbow. (Not Mercury but something like Barr) Not sure. Found rusted hole from salt water running in Florida I guess. I went with all new Mercury manifolds and elbows. Aftermarket exhaust parts are hit and miss. IMO
Hows your compression cold?
Hows you compression at temp?
How do your spark plugs look?
How do your oil changes look?
Have you removed and inspected the exhaust elbows and gaskets lately?
My rule of thumb is... Make sure you have a good engines first... Then troubleshoot the easy stuff. No sense throwing time and money at them if the engines need help.
For me? The Stbd engine had been a thrown together 2bolt truck motor by someone whom had no compassion for any marine quality requirements. We only get one chance to do it. So do it right the first time.
Question everyone and everything including my response. Machines do break and give us high's and lows in this thing we call life. Since new engine installs I'm mostly happy. Working through a vibration issue and a water leak under high power on Stbd side. Otherwise happy I went with new Long Blocks

 

[aross2566]

Thanks Beech. Yes I have done all you suggested. No water in oil. You confirmed what my mechanic stated. And I’m with you on OEM parts. I’ll have them replaced and report back. Thanks again.