Official 370 Express Cruiser Thread (1997-2000)

Heres a +1 for barnicle buster cleaning heat exchangers. Ill post the befores and after of the heat exchanger on my generator. Its flowing much better now.
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Yeah, that stuff works really well. I was at the boat this weekend and got a short video of the water output from my generator, not sure if you still needed it or not but here you go:

The fender in my main exhaust is to keep out the muskrats, I had a family of them living in there last fall. :)
 
That is exactly what I was looking for. With the heat exchanger cleaned out and new impeller I have similar output. I really appreciate the help and video!
 
TNT8808 said:
If interested I've seen these on other boats with muskrat issues: https://hurleymarine.com/shop/muskrat-otter-guards/muskrat-otter-exhaust-guards/
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Yeah, I looked into those when the pack first moved in, but I had a cheap set of fenders that fit the exhaust port perfectly so I couldn't justify the expense. I bought a "Remove Before Flight" tag that I keep on my starter switches as a reminder to make sure I pull the fenders out before starting - that would be bad.
 
Any of you guys fishing and running diesels - How are you dropping your speed down for trolling? I ran a 48" bag and still feel like I'm going too fast. My electronics are original and not the best - GPS shows Im around 2.6-4 mph depending on current.
 
Shooter_x said:
Any of you guys fishing and running diesels - How are you dropping your speed down for trolling? I ran a 48" bag and still feel like I'm going too fast. My electronics are original and not the best - GPS shows Im around 2.6-4 mph depending on current.
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I don't have Diesels, but I have Trolling Valves on my transmissions. If you need to go slow, this is the only way to do it..
 
West32 said:
I don't have Diesels, but I have Trolling Valves on my transmissions. If you need to go slow, this is the only way to do it..
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I've heard that. Which transmissions do you have? From what I was reading on boat diesels, the ZFs in mine come with a heavy price tag for trolling valves. I like the concept a lot, but for recreation around 4k+ seems steep to lose a couple knots.
 
I have ZF 63A's. Its about 4K per each to have someone install them from what I have heard. If your Mechanically inclined, there is not much to them. The Valve is about $800, then you have to get the controls. Make sure you get an interlock for the Throttle. You can NEVER go about 1000 rpm with the Valves engaged.
 
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I love these Boats. Attached is a link to a short video of us running back to port in Heavy seas. The boat performed like a champ. The lake went from dead calm to 40 mph winds and 6 to 8 foot waves in a short amount of time. We had to run 14 miles back to port and be in by 12 noon for Tournament time. I had to push her a little, but she performed awesome!
 
Has anyone added cleats to the stern of your 370EC? The only cleats mine currently has on the stern are inside the holes in the back, and it's such a pain having to thread through the lines when we're trying to tie up to other boats or to a lock wall. I've been thinking about adding a horizontal cleat on each side above the rub rail, or a vertical cleat below the current hole, both on the outside, to make it easier to manage. Anyone done that on yours?

Here's my boat, top arrow would be where a horizontal cleat could go, bottom arrow is where a vertical one could go.

SeafariStern.jpg
 
GnrlPatton said:
Has anyone added cleats to the stern of your 370EC? The only cleats mine currently has on the stern are inside the holes in the back, and it's such a pain having to thread through the lines when we're trying to tie up to other boats or to a lock wall. I've been thinking about adding a horizontal cleat on each side above the rub rail, or a vertical cleat below the current hole, both on the outside, to make it easier to manage. Anyone done that on yours?

Here's my boat, top arrow would be where a horizontal cleat could go, bottom arrow is where a vertical one could go.

View attachment 71172
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I know what you mean. To do this, you would need to Glass in a Backer board in the inside under the gunnel. I would make sure to "De-stress" the Cleat holes on the ouside and or put a piece of Starboard right under the cleat so you don't get stress cracking around the cleat holes.
 
Everyone here with the 370 ECs with gas engines should have the Westerbeke 7.0 BCG gas generator. Just wondering if anyone has been able to determine exactly who manufactured the engine? I'm currently looking at replacement ignition parts and would like to avoid paying the high prices demanded by the WB dealers. Thanks :)
 
Good afternoon gentleman,
I have been inactive since selling my 91 350EC diesel over a year ago.
Now I find myself in the market again and was wondering If any of you may be able to offer some insight. I recently had a contract on a 2000 Tiara 35 open fall thru at survey due to moisture issues. Now I have 2 vessels on the table for consideration. One being a 2000 SR 370 EC with Cat 3116s, and the other is another Tiara, 2001 35 open with Cummins 5.9 CTAs.
My first question is in regard to the hull construction on the 370 EC. Are they entirely cored, even below the water line? Have there been significant / common problems with this model hull that I need to be especially aware? My surveyor told me in advance about problematic moisture issues in the Tiaras so I had done my research and was prepared.

Second comes down to the power. And I expect this to be somewhat subjective. I am only considering diesel power and one of the things that impressed me with my short time on the Tiara was the low noise level. I actually asked the broker if both engines were running during my first walk thru. Now keep in mind I was used to listening to my much older cummins 6BTAs in the 350 which I could never make that mistake. I understand that turbo placement are in different locations between the two. So my question is, how do you find the level of sound to be while at A) 800- 1000 rpm , and at B) cruise speed?
I don’t suppose anyone has been on both to compare, and unfortunately the SR is not close to me at all where I can do this just yet.

Thank you in advance.
 
Boca_Vincent said:
My first question is in regard to the hull construction on the 370 EC. Are they entirely cored, even below the water line? Have there been significant / common problems with this model hull that I need to be especially aware? My surveyor told me in advance about problematic moisture issues in the Tiaras so I had done my research and was prepared.
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From what I've read and what I've been told, the hull is solid below the waterline, no coring. My boat has had some repairs on both side decks where the radar arch meets the deck. Apparently there is a problem with water that gets into the side vents and not draining where it's supposed to.
 
gerrpicc said:
From what I've read and what I've been told, the hull is solid below the waterline, no coring. My boat has had some repairs on both side decks where the radar arch meets the deck. Apparently there is a problem with water that gets into the side vents and not draining where it's supposed to.
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Thanks Gerry, continuing research this week before making any decisions.
 
Boca_Vincent said:
Good afternoon gentleman,
I have been inactive since selling my 91 350EC diesel over a year ago.
Now I find myself in the market again and was wondering If any of you may be able to offer some insight. I recently had a contract on a 2000 Tiara 35 open fall thru at survey due to moisture issues. Now I have 2 vessels on the table for consideration. One being a 2000 SR 370 EC with Cat 3116s, and the other is another Tiara, 2001 35 open with Cummins 5.9 CTAs.
My first question is in regard to the hull construction on the 370 EC. Are they entirely cored, even below the water line? Have there been significant / common problems with this model hull that I need to be especially aware? My surveyor told me in advance about problematic moisture issues in the Tiaras so I had done my research and was prepared.

Second comes down to the power. And I expect this to be somewhat subjective. I am only considering diesel power and one of the things that impressed me with my short time on the Tiara was the low noise level. I actually asked the broker if both engines were running during my first walk thru. Now keep in mind I was used to listening to my much older cummins 6BTAs in the 350 which I could never make that mistake. I understand that turbo placement are in different locations between the two. So my question is, how do you find the level of sound to be while at A) 800- 1000 rpm , and at B) cruise speed?
I don’t suppose anyone has been on both to compare, and unfortunately the SR is not close to me at all where I can do this just yet.

Thank you in advance.
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Boca_Vincent,

RE Hull construction, I contacted Sea Ray with the same question and they sent me the blueprint for our hull. See the attached image. At idle I can speak comfortably. At cruise (for me 29 mph @ 2400 rpms) I have to yell, over the engine, or the music. I don't have the decibels for either but I could pull something up as an app and run it next time I'm out which would be this weekend or sooner. I've got the 3116s and so far I am happy with their performance. With mine being fully mechanical my only grumble is that I can't interface (easily) with NEMA stuff the way some newer engines can. 1st world problems...
 

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Hey guys. I'm having a Charging issue with my port motor. I believe the issue is related to the "Isolator" which is mounted on the wall in front of the port motor.
I took both alternators in to be checked out the technician said they were perfect.
My issue is if I am only running on my port motor, after a few hours, I start getting low voltage alarms. As soon as I fire up the Starboard motor, the Port Volt gauge goes up and the alarms go away. Does anyone have a Schematic for this Isolator? Anyone ever had this issue before. Last year I trolled on my Starboard motor all year, this year I am trolling on my port motor and am having Voltage issues.
Thoughts?
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