Official 370 Sundancer thread

I have two 10 inch subs in rear cockpit area and I'm putting two more under the captains seat area then I'm done.. My rockville fm4 amp mounted under the couch in the saloon goes into protection mode if I'm really pushing it. I'm going to install a cooling fan with a temp sensor.
 

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I don't think my opinion is worth that much, but I don't think I'd jump to quick on rebuilding those transmissions. Mine clunk like crazy when I shift into gear, and I have just under 1500 hrs on them. In the middle of the night, I'm sure they were plenty loud.

i tend to agree, took it out this weekend while changing slips and couldn't hear anything...
 
i tend to agree, took it out this weekend while changing slips and couldn't hear anything...
im trolling the 370 forum at work here... when I bought my 330 with hurth v drives, the port motor was chattering like crazy during the seatrial. I was almost lead to believe it needed replacing at a cost of $1200. after some research , a tune-up and idle adjustment later , they are smooth as glass and quiet. try adjusting your idle which can cause a clunk going into gear. I was surprised how sensitive these were to the motors' running condition. I had one throttle linkage that had worked its way out of adjustment with use.... hook up a separate tach for the adjustment
 
I'm thinking about installing an actisense emu-1 and converting my guage analog signal to a digital nmea 2000 Signal and feeding the information into a raymarine axiom 9. Has anyone attempted this? Should be interesting.
 
My Norcold DE 540 is no longer cooling, it powers up but I never hear the compressor kicking on, I am guessing a thermostat control perhaps? Does anyone have a part number?
 
Does anyone know if these boats can be beached on sand at high tide safely? Bad idea? I want to install some underwater lights on my swim grid
 
Mine gets hung in slings, and set on stands every few years. I would think the running gear would be the million dollar question. No keel to protect it.
 
Can you install a Raymarine C80 and have it run on the original outside equipment that came with the boat in 1998?
 
Can you install a Raymarine C80 and have it run on the original outside equipment that came with the boat in 1998?
?? Original equipment could have been the 380 GPS, Tri-data, and who knows.
C 80 was during the transition years, so I would ask Raymarine. There is a great board there that looks at your proposed changes and lets you know if it won't work.
 
?? Original equipment could have been the 380 GPS, Tri-data, and who knows.
C 80 was during the transition years, so I would ask Raymarine. There is a great board there that looks at your proposed changes and lets you know if it won't work.
Thank you Sir.
 
View attachment 52571 View attachment 52569 Been chasing a rare leak in the V berth for quite a while, and I think I am on the path to closure on it.
This is the one where the bolster gets wet (underneath), and runs along the bolster, in my case to the cabinetry/closet on the port side. from there, it was dripping down the furniture and coming out the bottom drawer of the 2 steps on the port side.
I removed the bolster this week, and discovered that the water is coming between the port side shelf that has a fixed portlight, and the vinyl covering. At first I thought it must be coming through the portlight frame, but now I am leaning towards the stanchion mount that is directly above the portlight on deck. Referring to the pictures in this link to dropbox:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8iirxqho0j0aeo6/AABdMzVInSlewUuEg6MHhazca?dl=0
there is a "box" above the portlight which hides the rail and mounting hardware. it is between the TV cabinet, and the speaker cabinet. I cannot find any of the usual Sea Ray hidden screws, or something from the TV cabinet side that is attaching it to the headliner. I also see no way into the speaker enclosure. Has anyone gotten into this area of their interior to expose the stanchion mounting nuts?
TIA for any help you can provide. In case the dropbox link gets blocked, I'll try to upload pics of the interior pieces in question.
I have an update on this, now that rainy season is back, and we "lost" 2018 due to red tide.
The leak is not from the stanchion above. I think that condensation was some 20 years worth of this spot leaking. The leak is still not known, but I do know exactly how it is getting into the bolster on the port side, for me. Others have had this issue on the Starboard side.
When I went to remove the portlight trim ring, I found water pooling in the bottom of the portlight. If water is there, it is saturating the wall covering of the shelf down to the exit point of the back of the bolster. Ok, so how did water get into the portlight?
After I removed the trim ring inside and the portlight outside, I found the bottom of the portlight cutout (the picture above) was fiberglass/gelcoat on the outside, and fiberglass/shelving (inner liner) on the inside. What was probably some kind of plywood strip between them was totally waterlogged and rotted out, but only on the bottom. Not the top, not the sides, just the bottom. I explored with a screwdriver and I believe that the hull "feature" under the portlight, that spans the length of the hull is compromised wood wise. I am baffled about where it's getting in.
I vacuumed out what I could using some very inventive adapters to a shop vac, and caulked the space between the outer hull and the inner liner a lot. It all dried, except the very bottom of the cutout as it rained on me later that day. My goal at the moment is to block the leak from coming into the cabin. I don't believe that the compromised wood is structural at all. It's more about creating that lip between the boot stripe and the hull. Next move will be to run a moisture meter all around that area until I find the entry point. Could be the windshield. I seriously doubt the fittings nearby like the water fill, windless foot switches, etc. I have re-bedded everything close by. I'll have to wait for fall, though. We'll be 100% humidity for the next 3 months.
I'll report back after the next deluge to see if I was successful in blocking the leak to the cabin.
 
Need some help, looking to replace all interior bulbs in cabin with LED, does anyone have a list? I am
Not sure how to even remove the bulbs, tried pulling and pushing and twisting....???
 
Need some help, looking to replace all interior bulbs in cabin with LED, does anyone have a list? I am
Not sure how to even remove the bulbs, tried pulling and pushing and twisting....???
There may be significant differences between a '92 fixture, and the '95 to '99 version. A picture would really help.
 
There may be significant differences between a '92 fixture, and the '95 to '99 version. A picture would really help.

See attached
 

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See attached
The round ceiling mount ones just pop off, stick something plastic or a small screw driver with tape on the end between the chrome part and the ceiling and give it little twist and they pop right off.

I changed all of our wall mount ones to a brushed stainless fixture and the old ones are just in a box at home and we are out on our boat for a couple weeks. But if I remember right the bulbs were like an automotive bulb such as an 1156.

Ed
 
hey guys! need some repowering help! has anyone ever repowered their 370 from 7.4 to 8.1 volvos?
 
I stuck with Mercruisers to make sure engine mounts didn't have to move, and it would bolt right up to my V-Drive trannys. Engine harness cable plugged right in. If your volvos are substantially less, then perhaps you can live with modifications. Mercruiser has a repower program and division that I would at least investigate.
 

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