Official 370 Sundancer thread

Stee6043 said:
I don't know what you guys run but I have 3 of the battery powered combo CO/Smoke alarms linked below on my boat. These are in addition to the two hardwired CO detectors I've got.

Cheap, reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXJ498/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is nothing quite as glorious as being out on a "raft up day" with a bunch of boats, time to leave, all the boats fire up their engines and you have FIVE CO detectors going off in unison. Truly fantastic, would recommend.
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So you have 3 additional CO/Smokes below on your boat. If you don’t mind me asking, where did you locate? I have the two OEM CO detectors, one in stateroom and one in galley. Just curious, you can never be overprotective.
 
does anyone know if the front visor size is different for Stainless steel windshield vs standard aluminum windshield. why are they offered in 2 different specs? I found a great price for the front visor and side curtains but they are labeled for SS and I think I have the standard windshield.
 
Mauler34Rod said:
So you have 3 additional CO/Smokes below on your boat. If you don’t mind me asking, where did you locate? I have the two OEM CO detectors, one in stateroom and one in galley. Just curious, you can never be overprotective.
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I keep one in the master berth, one in the galley area and the other in the aft/mid berth. This way even if all doors are closed we're covered in all the rooms. The other nice thing about the battery powered units is that they're portable. I've anchored out on a cold day, canvas up, generator running and have moved one of the CO detectors up into the cockpit just to be safe. None of my battery units are hard mounted. I just set them in convenient locations.

Aside from redundancy, the other nice thing about having 2-3 of these around is that when one goes off due to a low battery or other non-CO issue you can quickly confirm whether or not it's a "real" emergency. At home and on the boat I've had CO detectors go bad over time...
 
Alright.. Operation fix my #&$@ water leak here we go...

Drained the water. It's pooling here in the photo and then draining down into where the water heater is. I'm almost sure it's coming from one of the water connections but getting it all dried out and we'll start troubleshooting.
 

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Falcon370 said:
my point exactly, I saw that 380DA have 3 !!! so I was wondering if I am missing a second one on mine, but can't find it anywhere :) what fire alarms did you get for yours ?
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Fire are just the Fireboy Xintex round smoke detectors. FRB-SS-775. I have one in the salon and one in the stateroom at the highest point. They are not networked/relayed.

The CMD5s are shipping my way to replace the three 4s.
 
Mauler34Rod said:
Falcon370, I need to replace my CMD Xintex CO Detectors, can you tell me where you sourced them from?
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They sell these all over. Be sure to order the correct version. There is a relayed and non-relayed version.

CMD5-MDI-R - with interconnect for the relayed version that also shuts down gensets
CMD5-MD-R - for the standalone version

There is also a CMD5-MB version but these are battery powered, totally standalone.

You will also need the Fireboy RCM5 relay if you intend to replace your CMD4s with CMD5s that interconnect them to your genset for shutdown.

Hodge's Marine sells them for under retail but I picked up the RMC5 from Westmarine.

Search results for: 'cmd5 md' (hodgesmarine.com)

FIREBOY-XINTEX CO Alarm Relay Control Module | West Marine
 
NateVancouver said:
Alright.. Operation fix my #&$@ water leak here we go...

Drained the water. It's pooling here in the photo and then draining down into where the water heater is. I'm almost sure it's coming from one of the water connections but getting it all dried out and we'll start troubleshooting.
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That's an interesting spot for collection. I would chase the whole fresh line circuit. (I assume it's fresh)
Welcome to the club. I am still chasing a port side leak, which I am now pretty sure originates at the hull deck joint right around the fixed porthole in the forward cabin, perhaps since Charlie. flows into the hull liner void, and out the bottom of the porthole cutout, down to the shelf under the nice vinyl covering to bolster around the Vee Berth. That's why that corner is always wet after a Tropical storm. down the wall behind the port step up for the berth to the salon floor. Then down into the center floor storage lockers, along the floor under all the junk the galley needs, and into the salon bilge where the sump pump out is. Never deep enough to set off that bilge alarm, but definitely runs the length of the storage floor and pools up around that pump. Probably contributed to weeping into the non-accessible lower bilge cavities unless you get out the Sawzall. I almost have this model figured out.
 
Stee6043 said:
I keep one in the master berth, one in the galley area and the other in the aft/mid berth. This way even if all doors are closed we're covered in all the rooms. The other nice thing about the battery powered units is that they're portable. I've anchored out on a cold day, canvas up, generator running and have moved one of the CO detectors up into the cockpit just to be safe. None of my battery units are hard mounted. I just set them in convenient locations.

Aside from redundancy, the other nice thing about having 2-3 of these around is that when one goes off due to a low battery or other non-CO issue you can quickly confirm whether or not it's a "real" emergency. At home and on the boat I've had CO detectors go bad over time...
Click to expand...
 
Thanks I’m going to get three-10 year battery powered units next spring.
 
370Dancer said:
That's an interesting spot for collection. I would chase the whole fresh line circuit. (I assume it's fresh)
Welcome to the club. I am still chasing a port side leak, which I am now pretty sure originates at the hull deck joint right around the fixed porthole in the forward cabin, perhaps since Charlie. flows into the hull liner void, and out the bottom of the porthole cutout, down to the shelf under the nice vinyl covering to bolster around the Vee Berth. That's why that corner is always wet after a Tropical storm. down the wall behind the port step up for the berth to the salon floor. Then down into the center floor storage lockers, along the floor under all the junk the galley needs, and into the salon bilge where the sump pump out is. Never deep enough to set off that bilge alarm, but definitely runs the length of the storage floor and pools up around that pump. Probably contributed to weeping into the non-accessible lower bilge cavities unless you get out the Sawzall. I almost have this model figured out.
Click to expand...
370Dancer said:
That's an interesting spot for collection. I would chase the whole fresh line circuit. (I assume it's fresh)
Welcome to the club. I am still chasing a port side leak, which I am now pretty sure originates at the hull deck joint right around the fixed porthole in the forward cabin, perhaps since Charlie. flows into the hull liner void, and out the bottom of the porthole cutout, down to the shelf under the nice vinyl covering to bolster around the Vee Berth. That's why that corner is always wet after a Tropical storm. down the wall behind the port step up for the berth to the salon floor. Then down into the center floor storage lockers, along the floor under all the junk the galley needs, and into the salon bilge where the sump pump out is. Never deep enough to set off that bilge alarm, but definitely runs the length of the storage floor and pools up around that pump. Probably contributed to weeping into the non-accessible lower bilge cavities unless you get out the Sawzall. I almost have this model figured out.
Click to expand...


Definitely fresh water. Going to pull the hot water heater after running the water system and finding out where the seep is coming from.

One day we'll get these water issues sorted
 
NateVancouver said:
Definitely fresh water. Going to pull the hot water heater after running the water system and finding out where the seep is coming from.

One day we'll get these water issues sorted
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If it's in there, hopefully its just the fittings/hoses. Can't help but think it may not be the heater itself in this case.. but that doesn't help solve your issue of no hot water too.
 
NateVancouver said:
Definitely fresh water. Going to pull the hot water heater after running the water system and finding out where the seep is coming from.

One day we'll get these water issues sorted
Click to expand...
There's only 2 sources of fresh water on a salt water boat.
Rain, and the fresh water tank. If it's the tank, and the pump is on, you will hear it run periodically for "no" reason. Mine doesn't, and it only leaks after a gully washer, as we are apt to get around here. I've re-caulked the top of the rub rail joint to the hull, but now I'm thinking this might be breaching on the underside using friction (like a gutter guard) to run around the rub rail, and find its way in. Dunno, could be closing in on the day we yank the rub rail, re-seal the hull deck joint, and start over.
 
BigRay370 said:
If it's in there, hopefully its just the fittings/hoses. Can't help but think it may not be the heater itself in this case.. but that doesn't help solve your issue of no hot water too.
Click to expand...
BigRay370 said:
If it's in there, hopefully its just the fittings/hoses. Can't help but think it may not be the heater itself in this case.. but that doesn't help solve your issue of no hot water too.
Click to expand...

I think it could be the heater too. I'm going to pull it soon.

Will update.
 
370Dancer said:
There's only 2 sources of fresh water on a salt water boat.
Rain, and the fresh water tank. If it's the tank, and the pump is on, you will hear it run periodically for "no" reason. Mine doesn't, and it only leaks after a gully washer, as we are apt to get around here. I've re-caulked the top of the rub rail joint to the hull, but now I'm thinking this might be breaching on the underside using friction (like a gutter guard) to run around the rub rail, and find its way in. Dunno, could be closing in on the day we yank the rub rail, re-seal the hull deck joint, and start over.
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It does run periodically. I also have a leak where the shower is at the transom so that may be causing it. I actually removed the shower head and nozzle and tried to cap those poly b pipes back there (unsuccessfully.). Just waiting for it to get bone dry in there and then will start running some tests. / preparing to remove hot water heater.



Does anyone know where to get a new transom shower head/lever? Most styles out now use a hot and cold separate system instead of the one lever. I may just drill another hole and install two levers.
 
Falcon370 said:
does anyone know if the front visor size is different for Stainless steel windshield vs standard aluminum windshield. why are they offered in 2 different specs? I found a great price for the front visor and side curtains but they are labeled for SS and I think I have the standard windshield.
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. Do you have a link for that? I'm also interested in checking it out
 
TN370 said:
For anyone who keeps the heat on to run throughout the winter but has to deal with freezing temps. I added the two valves with bleeder ports to hot and cold lines that supply the outside of the boat. This lets the swim shower, outside sink, hose bib, and shore supply to be blown out. While keeping all inside working
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Hey can you give me some more information on how you did this and what parts you used? Was it a sharkbite adapter?
 
Screenshot_20201210-175225_WhatsApp.jpg
Screenshot_20201210-175309_WhatsApp.jpg


Here are some shots of the aqua vu underwater hd camera.

First we put it inside the crab trap(right at my marina) . The water is VERY silty but still made for some interesting viewing we would see a crab every few minutes. Then we did a top down shot and saw that there were literally hundreds of crabs and fish prawns. all around everywhere. The top down view is much more clear.

I am going to build a proper rig set the camera up High on an underwater tripod and make a custom pan underwater motor setup so we can look around with a joystick.

More to come..
 
NateVancouver said:
It does run periodically. I also have a leak where the shower is at the transom so that may be causing it. I actually removed the shower head and nozzle and tried to cap those poly b pipes back there (unsuccessfully.). Just waiting for it to get bone dry in there and then will start running some tests. / preparing to remove hot water heater.



Does anyone know where to get a new transom shower head/lever? Most styles out now use a hot and cold separate system instead of the one lever. I may just drill another hole and install two levers.
Click to expand...
Search my posts, and you'll see what I found for the replacement transom shower fixture. My original also leaked if it were not fully shut off. A wayward knee or kid would bump the mixer handle, and I could lose a 70 gallon tank in a couple of weeks out the transom.
I know it's really long now, but there is a treasure trove of experience in this one thread about the 370. More than you will ever want to know.
 
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