Official 380 Thread

Erik R said:
Anyone know which model Norcold fridge did Sea Ray put in the cockpit of the 2003 380's? i'm needing to order a part for it, I forgot to look at the model number before I left the boat.
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I have the same model year 380. Mine is a Norcold DE461. Good Luck on the parts
 
Hi folks I am looking for supplier on the rochester fuel tank sending unit for my 2003 380. Has anyone got a reference for one?
 
Does anyone notice a back-draft of salt or freshwater mist coming into the rear of the cockpit when the boat is on plane and headed into the wind of 8 kts. or more? It's OK during the spring, summer and fall, but in the winter, nobody really wants to get damp. The swim ladder is up, I have no transom mount devices - it is a clean transom with the exception of the trim tabs. The tabs are not bent or out of original shape.

Just wondering if others experience this issue. I do not notice it in the driver's position, but if you are sitting in the back part of the cockpit, you will be damp from the water in 20-30 minutes. I searched this thread here and did not see anything. Any help is welcomed. My boat is an 02 380DA.

Vince
 
Boat is 380 Aft cabin year 1989 anchor is original to boat. Rebuilt in 2012, works fine, was working well when rebuilt; but felt it need looking at. The deck Up/Down switches are individual solenoids not common box. The down solenoid some times does not work on first try from either foot switch or remote switch. Up works fine. Question: Does anyone know if you can purchase the single solenoid switches. Marina wants to change system to single block solenoid type. To do they they need to change the deck foot switches.
 
northern said:
Boat is 380 Aft cabin year 1989 anchor is original to boat. Rebuilt in 2012, works fine, was working well when rebuilt; but felt it need looking at. The deck Up/Down switches are individual solenoids not common box. The down solenoid some times does not work on first try from either foot switch or remote switch. Up works fine. Question: Does anyone know if you can purchase the single solenoid switches. Marina wants to change system to single block solenoid type. To do they they need to change the deck foot switches.
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Try Flounder Pounder.
https://www.searay-parts.com/
 
Cleaning my AC filters, they def needed it, been a year.

so, in my bedroom AC, the stat always shows it’s warmer than it is. Wife sets the ac to 69 and it won’t shut off. Just doesn’t get the sensor location cool enough, stat will show 72 as the temp in the room, it’s much cooler

I lifted the access under the mattress, the temp went from 74 to 58 in 15 mins, the ac shut off, but that’s how cold it actually was.

Where is the temp sensor/probe, assuming it’s near the return, but it’s not jumping out visually to me.... has anyone moved this, or do you just adjust your stat to a higher setting, like 74?

TIA
Chris
 
I would like to know as well. I have SMX tstats. I go through the programming and set what I think is the ambient temperature in the boat every time I stay on the boat.

it seems to work better that way but I have to keep resetting it after I turn power off/on
 
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@Roch, unrelated question.... I see you are from Tuckerton. That is where I started in boating back in 71. We kept our boat at Haye's Marina. Just wondering if it is still there. I have not been back there in 40 years or so. I guess Green St. looks a lil different now. It was such a special place to me.

Vince
 
Were supposed to be at sheltered cove marina on s green street close to the end of the point at bay. but were at total marine marina now getting SB engine replaced. this is our first time being down the shore we were on the Delaware river for 15 years so I don’t know many marinas down here other than the ones we looked at. Hayes doesn’t ring a bell off hand.
 
Insurance renewal came in, forgot I added this endorsement it’s called “Underinsured” and “Underinsured” coverage. Was only $60 for 1 year of $300k worth of coverage. May be something to look into with all the new boaters on the water this year.... basically it helps cover medical expenses ect. in an accident caused by another operator who does not have liability insurance or inadequate coverage limits.
 
The Un/Under insured is a good idea. I need to check my new insurance for that.

Chubb did not send in a bid, ended up with Travellers. $1,250 per year.
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
The Un/Under insured is a good idea. I need to check my new insurance for that.

Chubb did not send in a bid, ended up with Travellers. $1,250 per year.
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I have my 360 with Travelers and mine is also about the same price with the Un/Under Ins Endorcement.
 
BBOC said:
Does anyone know what the hull of a 2003 380 DA is balsa cored?
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Someone mentioned manf location was a factor. From what I understand you have to contact Sea Ray and give them your Hull ID. Also it was mentioned that if it was SERF it is Solid Core which my Boat is. But to double check I sent in an inquiry last week so I will let you know when they respond.
 
Just wanted to share with you all that if you are looking to leverage the 2001 era OEM Pathfinder Chart-plotter, Analog Radar, ST7k Autopilot and ST60 tridata, without a full blown upgrade, that you can purchase the Axiom and Seatalk to SeatalkNG converter and everything works very well.

I set it all up early in the season and took my first trip at length last weekend and was able to use the Navionics dock to dock auto route and the ST7k Autopilot was able to track the data. You can also see the data from the tridata on the Axiom and the Axiom talks to the pathfinder. I installed the Axiom on the side with a Umount. It also replaces your GPS which mine was the RN300, I keep it hooked up as a back-up but just keep it powered down. I am very happy with the upgrade for a minimal cost about 800ish. Below is the parts list. No splicing wires. or having to run power. It all connects and plug in play.

Parts Needed:

Seatalk Cable RUL 4001-138-A 3 pin Seatalk Cable
Seatalk d244 junciton box
(2 above only needed if you want to keep the RN300 GPS in the network for a Backup)

Or just use the RN300 seatalk cable to converter adapter

Axiom 7" with navionics 600ish
Raymarine Seatalkng To Devicenet Female Adapter Cable - 1m $32
Raymarine E22158 Seatalk 1 To Seatalk Converter Kit $84
 
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I just checked my Travelers policy and we have 500k under insured included.
 
That’s an awesome piece of information. I have been looking at this upgrade as well. Are you using the radar? I have the Raymarine 4kw closed array and want to replace one component at a time? What about the original chart plotter? Did you leave it in and is it still hooked up? I am going to replace that and put in a new panel as well.


tdb380Ray said:
Just wanted to share with you all that if you are looking to leverage the 2001 era OEM Pathfinder Chart-plotter, Analog Radar, ST7k Autopilot and ST60 tridata, without a full blown upgrade, that you can purchase the Axiom and Seatalk to SeatalkNG converter and everything works very well.

I set it all up early in the season and took my first trip at length last weekend and was able to use the Navionics dock to dock auto route and the ST7k Autopilot was able to track the data. You can also see the data from the tridata on the Axiom and the Axiom talks to the pathfinder. I installed the Axiom on the side with a Umount. It also replaces your GPS which mine was the RN300, I keep it hooked up as a back-up but just keep it powered down. I am very happy with the upgrade for a minimal cost about 800ish. Below is the parts list. No splicing wires. or having to run power. It all connects and plug in play.

Parts Needed:

Seatalk Cable RUL 4001-138-A 3 pin Seatalk Cable
Seatalk d244 junciton box
(2 above only needed if you want to keep the RN300 GPS in the network for a Backup)

Or just use the RN300 seatalk cable to converter adapter

Axiom 7" with navionics 600ish
Raymarine Seatalkng To Devicenet Female Adapter Cable - 1m $32
Raymarine E22158 Seatalk 1 To Seatalk Converter Kit $84
Click to expand...
tdb380Ray said:
Just wanted to share with you all that if you are looking to leverage the 2001 era OEM Pathfinder Chart-plotter, Analog Radar, ST7k Autopilot and ST60 tridata, without a full blown upgrade, that you can purchase the Axiom and Seatalk to SeatalkNG converter and everything works very well.

I set it all up early in the season and took my first trip at length last weekend and was able to use the Navionics dock to dock auto route and the ST7k Autopilot was able to track the data. You can also see the data from the tridata on the Axiom and the Axiom talks to the pathfinder. I installed the Axiom on the side with a Umount. It also replaces your GPS which mine was the RN300, I keep it hooked up as a back-up but just keep it powered down. I am very happy with the upgrade for a minimal cost about 800ish. Below is the parts list. No splicing wires. or having to run power. It all connects and plug in play.

Parts Needed:

Seatalk Cable RUL 4001-138-A 3 pin Seatalk Cable
Seatalk d244 junciton box
(2 above only needed if you want to keep the RN300 GPS in the network for a Backup)

Or just use the RN300 seatalk cable to converter adapter

Axiom 7" with navionics 600ish
Raymarine Seatalkng To Devicenet Female Adapter Cable - 1m $32
Raymarine E22158 Seatalk 1 To Seatalk Converter Kit $84
Click to expand...
 
BBOC said:
Does anyone know what the hull of a 2003 380 DA is balsa cored?
Click to expand...



what the hulls consist of ...here’s a plug from the bottom from a virgin area on the bottom of a 2001 380 DA

Going outside to inside
Gelcoat then 3/4inch fiberglass then 5/8inch wood core then 1/2 fiberglass then Gelcoat


18CC977D-1AF2-459D-9978-C78FC290ABBA.jpeg
 
Two things to report today...

The Clean Fuel Anti Spill device was a complete bust. Did not have the fuel go up in the baffles. It just flowed out around the filler as if the device was not there. Plus, the fuel dumped out of the overflow. It seems that it would be easier to just listen to the fuel gurgling in the pipe for a second before it overflows.

The second thing is I had to tap the starter with a hammer to get the solenoid to engage. Dunno how far away the death of the starter is...
 
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