Official 400EC thread

OK...this weekend my windshield actuator on the 400 will pull the window down, but does nothing to lift it. I looked on Ebay and they are available. What should I know and has anyone else had this experience?
 
do a general google search for linear actuator, have your measurements handy, compare length and extension. should be pretty cheap compared to searay. strength shouldn't be an issue because the window is very light.

the factory unit has an overlimit switch built into the ram. try giving it a little assistance while somebody activates the switch, and maybe you can take the pressure off the limit switch.
 
thanks......will get measurements this weekend. I will try to assist it.
 
I just had a similar problem. It was the limit ... just a bit of adjustment and it works fine now. Someone else posted not to open it to the max ... and no new problems.
 
how do you adjust the limit switch..? It goes down just fine..wont go up.
 
you tube is your friend..I understand now. Will get into it this weekend. Thanks for the tip.
 
jonsm114 said:
WOT report.....1/2 fuel and water, 2 people on board, 4400 rpm at 30mph....didn't play with the trim much but I think it could do better. Fresh bottom paint, new 4 blade props. New prop pitch is as follows, 20X18 with medium cup 1.5. The engines are 7.4 MPI 340 horse, raw water cooled mercruisers.

I took the old props to a local prop house. They were Nibral, 3 blade 20X21 1.5. two blades dinged on one prop. $370 to repair, refinish, clean and balance. They look like new. I guess I will keep them for spares.

Jon
Click to expand...

I'm not sure where you were before with the old props, so how does this compare in performance? I'm running my original props and wonder if I'd see speed/efficiency difference with newer props.
 
Wasn't Looking for more speed but I was looking for better hole shot and idle maneuvering. The 4 blade moves more water for sure and at idle its a big improvement. Mid range and plain ing time are much improved. Will know more today when I get out for the WOT test. Looking for 30MPH. The dealer that supplied the props suggested I document the performance and if I needed a bit more pitch, they would adjust the props as needed. I will pull the props and send to them for final tuning, if needed. So far I am very satisfied if for nothing else, the increased maneuverability at idle. 4400 rpm is the goal....we shall see.
 
jonsm114 said:
Wasn't Looking for more speed but I was looking for better hole shot and idle maneuvering. The 4 blade moves more water for sure and at idle its a big improvement. Mid range and plain ing time are much improved. Will know more today when I get out for the WOT test. Looking for 30MPH. The dealer that supplied the props suggested I document the performance and if I needed a bit more pitch, they would adjust the props as needed. I will pull the props and send to them for final tuning, if needed. So far I am very satisfied if for nothing else, the increased maneuverability at idle. 4400 rpm is the goal....we shall see.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I don't have any issues for improving slow speed maneuverability, but I would love "more speed" so that I can cruise the same speed at a lower rpm (efficiency). I would assume that with a four blade I could stay on plane a slightly slower speed as well. Just not sure if it's worth the investment.
 
Speed and rpm are not the only factors that determine efficiency. If over propped you would need to advance the throttles more in order to maintain rpm. The increase in throttle would then lower manifold pressure and increase fuel flow. As they say there is no free lunch. Prop the boat so it will achieve rated rpm whether you have 3 or 4 blade props. As you have suspected 4 blades will usually improve dock manners and 3 blades will give higher top speed.
 
hottoddie said:
Speed and rpm are not the only factors that determine efficiency. If over propped you would need to advance the throttles more in order to maintain rpm. The increase in throttle would then lower manifold pressure and increase fuel flow. As they say there is no free lunch. Prop the boat so it will achieve rated rpm whether you have 3 or 4 blade props. As you have suspected 4 blades will usually improve dock manners and 3 blades will give higher top speed.
Click to expand...
Love the idle response..moves water now. Stops on a dime. Investment...not hardly on these old girls...it's fun playing around tweaking them...efficiency is a long play at best...I just enjoy this thing...
 
Good Morning,

I had the chance to spend a day on the boat finishing some projects this week. Made a ton of progress but also added a few things to my punch list. I'm hoping to get some help from some of you that have already completed these projects.

  1. Masthead/Anchor Light Replacement - My OEM pole is worn out and unreliable. It has to be replaced. I would like to relocate it from the windshield to the Radar arch. Has anyone done this? I know I will need a 3 wire unit. How long should it be? Is 12" enough? I don't have much up there other than an old TV antenna and a GPS antenna, the GPS antenna is 8-9" tall. I would probably leave the old socket in place and just run new wires to the switches, does that make sense?
  2. CO detector - The 2 wires going to the wall mounted detector in the Salon seem to be dead. The wires to the detector in the master bedroom showed ~12Vdc. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?
  3. Shower Sump - My sump looked to have quite a bit of water in it. I would guess it was 1/2 full. Is there a way to manually turn on the bilge pumps located in the sump?

As always thanks for any help you can give me.
 
Olysan said:
Good Morning,

I had the chance to spend a day on the boat finishing some projects this week. Made a ton of progress but also added a few things to my punch list. I'm hoping to get some help from some of you that have already completed these projects.

  1. Masthead/Anchor Light Replacement - My OEM pole is worn out and unreliable. It has to be replaced. I would like to relocate it from the windshield to the Radar arch. Has anyone done this? I know I will need a 3 wire unit. How long should it be? Is 12" enough? I don't have much up there other than an old TV antenna and a GPS antenna, the GPS antenna is 8-9" tall. I would probably leave the old socket in place and just run new wires to the switches, does that make sense?
  2. CO detector - The 2 wires going to the wall mounted detector in the Salon seem to be dead. The wires to the detector in the master bedroom showed ~12Vdc. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?
  3. Shower Sump - My sump looked to have quite a bit of water in it. I would guess it was 1/2 full. Is there a way to manually turn on the bilge pumps located in the sump?

As always thanks for any help you can give me.
Click to expand...

Search this thread as I have relocated my anchor light to the radar arch. I have posted some pictures of the finished product as well.

As for the CO Detector, check the breakers in the breaker panel and make sure they are not tripped. Check for power at the breaker also to rule that out as well.

The shower sump usually has standing water in it. I do not know of any switch to manually activate it. You can always remove the top of the shower sump and manually lift the float switch to run the pump.
 
h_gerry said:
Search this thread as I have relocated my anchor light to the radar arch. I have posted some pictures of the finished product as well.

As for the CO Detector, check the breakers in the breaker panel and make sure they are not tripped. Check for power at the breaker also to rule that out as well.

The shower sump usually has standing water in it. I do not know of any switch to manually activate it. You can always remove the top of the shower sump and manually lift the float switch to run the pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply h_gerry.
  1. Nice job relocating the light. Did you pull the wires out of the windshield and try to relocate them or did you just run new wires in the arch?
  2. I did check the breakers for the CO system and they seem to be fine. I'm wondering if anyone knows the routing of the wire to the detector in the salon so that I can start trying to trace it back and check for issues.
 
Olysan said:
Thanks for the reply h_gerry.
  1. Nice job relocating the light. Did you pull the wires out of the windshield and try to relocate them or did you just run new wires in the arch?
  2. I did check the breakers for the CO system and they seem to be fine. I'm wondering if anyone knows the routing of the wire to the detector in the salon so that I can start trying to trace it back and check for issues.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I ran new wires from the terminal block located behind the salon sofa cushions (on the engine room bulkhead to the starboard side of the stairs into the cabin) to the arch.

I have no idea how the wires are run to the co detector locations but would presume it runs along the engine room bulkhead then behind the galley.
 
Relocated the light to the arch. Much better.
Replaced CO detectors with new sealed battery type with 10 year life.

Next items on the punch list:

  1. Open up the shower sump and clean and evaluate condition.
  2. Re-plumb ice maker cabinet. New sink faucet and drain.
  3. Do something about the open side compartments in the rear of the cockpit. The original carpet is no longer attached so they look terrible.
 
So, it has happened. After 5 seasons of owning my 400 Express, it is time for a repower. Unfortunately, it is not by choice. Three days into a family vacation, a coolant hose burst on my port motor and it lost all of the antifreeze causing an overheat. End result being I either blew a head gasket, craked a head or cracked the block. All of the replacement antifreeze and water ended up in the crankcase.

The fact that all of this happened 200 miles from home really made the experience wonderful.

Since both motors were up to 1600 hours I am going to repower both engines at the same time ( I really don't want to go through that experience twice).

I am waiting for the insurance companies ruling on covering it as part of my mechanical breakdown coverage.

I will post pictures of my progress once I get started. Stay tuned.
 
h_gerry said:
So, it has happened. After 5 seasons of owning my 400 Express, it is time for a repower. Unfortunately, it is not by choice. Three days into a family vacation, a coolant hose burst on my port motor and it lost all of the antifreeze causing an overheat. End result being I either blew a head gasket, craked a head or cracked the block. All of the replacement antifreeze and water ended up in the crankcase.

The fact that all of this happened 200 miles from home really made the experience wonderful.

Since both motors were up to 1600 hours I am going to repower both engines at the same time ( I really don't want to go through that experience twice).

I am waiting for the insurance companies ruling on covering it as part of my mechanical breakdown coverage.

I will post pictures of my progress once I get started. Stay tuned.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear this. I hope your insurance will be able to help you out. Regardless, not a fun process. And all because of a coolant hose.
 
h_gerry said:
So, it has happened. After 5 seasons of owning my 400 Express, it is time for a repower. Unfortunately, it is not by choice. Three days into a family vacation, a coolant hose burst on my port motor and it lost all of the antifreeze causing an overheat. End result being I either blew a head gasket, craked a head or cracked the block. All of the replacement antifreeze and water ended up in the crankcase.

The fact that all of this happened 200 miles from home really made the experience wonderful.

Since both motors were up to 1600 hours I am going to repower both engines at the same time ( I really don't want to go through that experience twice).

I am waiting for the insurance companies ruling on covering it as part of my mechanical breakdown coverage.

I will post pictures of my progress once I get started. Stay tuned.
Click to expand...

Oh boy, so sorry Harold.
I wish you luck in the recovery.
Your going to be faced with the choice of what to repower with??

You’ll recall I did both motors (long blocks) 6 seasons ago.
Good news is the engines are relatively easy to remove and the replacements are readily available.

I wish you luck and if I can be of any assistance don’t hesitate to reach out to me.
 
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