Official 400EC thread

Hey, guys -
Anybody know what's on the other end of this hose projecting thru the forward bilge bulkhead? I just visited the boat this week and noticed what appears to be oil apparently leaking from the hose in the pic. I can't imagine what it could be, particularly since it seems it's the source of the oil. Ideas appreciated. Thanks in advance.View attachment 99832

I’m going to say with a high level of confidence...I don’t have that hose in my 1995. Must be a customs drain for ?
 
Any ideas on how to remove the sliding door from the small stateroom on the starboard side. The hardware is loose and we need to tighten it up. We also want to remove the door to finish the carpet job (pictures to follow soon).

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Also, how do you post pictures so they are oriented correctly

Thanks
 
The cold weather in Texas has passed and we finally can inspect our boats. Looks like I cracked at least one of the raw water strainers. Luckily, it was a small crack and my bilge pump could keep up with it until I shut off the seacock.

Do I need to try to find a Sea Ray part, or can I replace with a generic type such as this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Groco-Raw-Wa...child=1&keywords=groco&qid=1613945108&sr=8-13

For those that have replaced, what size, type did you use?
 
Looks like I cracked at least one of the raw water strainers.

You probably have either a groco or a perko unit. If just the glass is broken, you can get new glass. Although it may (depending on cost and availability) be easier to buy a new complete unit and simply use only the glass.
 
Any ideas on how to remove the sliding door from the small stateroom on the starboard side. The hardware is loose and we need to tighten it up. We also want to remove the door to finish the carpet job (pictures to follow soon).

View attachment 99947 View attachment 99948 View attachment 99949

Also, how do you post pictures so they are oriented correctly

Thanks
There are 2 tabs top and bottom of the first door. Unscrew them, the second or back door will now come off the bottom track and u can remove it from the top track
 
The cold weather in Texas has passed and we finally can inspect our boats. Looks like I cracked at least one of the raw water strainers. Luckily, it was a small crack and my bilge pump could keep up with it until I shut off the seacock.

Do I need to try to find a Sea Ray part, or can I replace with a generic type such as this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Groco-Raw-Wa...child=1&keywords=groco&qid=1613945108&sr=8-13

For those that have replaced, what size, type did you use?


Your engine intakes are 1 1/4.
I have the Groco’s, love the spin on caps.
 
SWS, Take a look at these pictures
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One is from engine compartment the other from the salon looking aft from my stringer repair job. Note I had a stain in my gel coat in same place as your picture! When I did a stringer replair in my boat in this area I saw dark water wick out of some of the exposed wood before removing the old stringer. The water was able to wick under stringer beacuse the compound used to bed the stringer to the hull was done poorly, so it left a gap between the stringer and hull and it acted like a water channel. The water turns dark brown from the wood over time, same as what I see in your picture. The one picture I attached with three colored lines is taken from inside the salon looking aft at the bulkhead under the steps. I have already removed the floor in salon and part of the port stringer. I also removed the polyester resin from the front of bulkhead and the bulkhead plywood that was rotten. You can see some of the rotten wood in left of picture. The yellow lines indicate the channel under stringers and bulk head wood where water can flow thus saturating the wood. The red circle is around the hole cut in bulkhead for the overflow drain tube from shower sump. Your picture shows this tube from engine room side. The blue lines are how high the water wicked inbetween polyester resin of my bulkhead, saturating the wood. When I started removing the bulk head polyester resin there was so much water between the bulkhead layers water actually started flowing out, and it was the same color as what I see in your bilge.

What might be happening in your boat is just like my situation. The hole SeaRay cuts in the bulk head for the sump drain tube, is not sealed very well (with polyester resin). Water that is leaking into your boat from an outside is finding its way under the stringers and bulk head. The water will eventually leak out of this hole. I bet if you look close at the silicone used to seal around the overflow tube is not applied very well and if the bulk head is wet, it will slowly wick out drip into your bilge and collect, right where your liquid is. Look really close to your tube, below it you can see the gel coat is stained and to me looks like the path of the dark water in your bilge. Part of the water path has dried, but where it collects in your picture has not evaporated yet.

I can also see water stains in bottom of bilge by pump and float and although this looks to be the average height of water I do see another water mark some inches ABOVE the sump drain tube. When your bilge fills with water to this level it might be finding its way into the bulkhead becasue, like I said earlier, SeaRay does a poor job of sealing this hole with gel coat plus the silicone is most likely not sealing around tube, thus allowing water that collects inside the bulkhead. Over time this water will saturate the wood and cause same issue.

If this water only shows up after it rains I would suspect you have what I described. FWIW, my water leak was a bitch to find. I looked at all the suspect areas, windsheild, canvas leaks, radar arch, through hull holes, etc. What I found on my boat was the main joint between the upper and lower halves of the hull behind rub rail was poorly sealed from factory.
 
Forgot to mention, one quick way to check for a wet bulkhead is drill a 1/4 hole in gelcoat near bottom and if wood is wet you will see it on drill bit and most likely water will leak out of hole. You can later patch hole with silicone or get coat.
 
Guys, esp. Greg, thanks for the great input. I made it to the boat on Saturday, but as my wife was boarding from the dock, she lost her footing and fell back onto the dock. Unfortunately, she broke the fall with her face. After a trip to the local ER and and diagnosis of a broken nose, we headed back to Atlanta. She has 2 black eyes and bruising all over the lower part of her face - think Alice Cooper after a bad night She's a retired RN who spent a lot of time working for the local public health dept. She kept telling me when we'd see a new doc, RN, etc. "Let me do the talking. I know how this works. When the husband starts trying to tell the story, they get really suspicious.".

So, no resolution as to the above situation on my boat. Assuming the Admiral doesn't mothball the boat, I'll head back and start the investigation.

NEW QUESTION: I have a fuel filter/water separator mounted on both engines, but I also have a similar-looking filter in each of the fuel lines behind the panel where the fuel crossover valves are located. I can't get a Brand or model number on either of them. The only lettering I see says something like: "Fuel/Water Separator 60 GPH". Does anybody have any info on a suitable brand and model for these filters?

Thanks again for the help
 
... filter in each of the fuel lines behind the panel where the fuel crossover valves are located...

You probably have a Fram fuel filter behind the cross over valves. Its a canister with a internal filter that can be replaced. I use a WIX33110 from Rock Auto, around $8.55 each. While the canister has a bolt at the bottom (looks like a drain) -- you actually loosen a bolt at the TOP to undo the canister. Not a lot of room at the top, but enough to loosen that bolt. I don't remember if its right-tight, left-loosen, or backwards. Something tells me its backwards. Make sure you get the old o-rings out - they stick.

fram_fuel_filter.JPG fuel filter.JPG
 
Starting to get everything together on the new boat. Refinished the dash last weekend and took the panels home to Atl. Made these last night
 

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Guys, esp. Greg, thanks for the great input. I made it to the boat on Saturday, but as my wife was boarding from the dock, she lost her footing and fell back onto the dock. Unfortunately, she broke the fall with her face. After a trip to the local ER and and diagnosis of a broken nose, we headed back to Atlanta. She has 2 black eyes and bruising all over the lower part of her face - think Alice Cooper after a bad night She's a retired RN who spent a lot of time working for the local public health dept. She kept telling me when we'd see a new doc, RN, etc. "Let me do the talking. I know how this works. When the husband starts trying to tell the story, they get really suspicious.".

So, no resolution as to the above situation on my boat. Assuming the Admiral doesn't mothball the boat, I'll head back and start the investigation.

NEW QUESTION: I have a fuel filter/water separator mounted on both engines, but I also have a similar-looking filter in each of the fuel lines behind the panel where the fuel crossover valves are located. I can't get a Brand or model number on either of them. The only lettering I see says something like: "Fuel/Water Separator 60 GPH". Does anybody have any info on a suitable brand and model for these filters?

Thanks again for the help
Sorry to hear about your wife, keep us posted.
 
Starting to get everything together on the new boat. Refinished the dash last weekend and took the panels home to Atl. Made these last night
I love this! I planned to do the exact same thing to my boat, and I actually started looking for gauges last night. What gauges did you use?
 
Starting to get everything together on the new boat. Refinished the dash last weekend and took the panels home to Atl. Made these last night
This looks fantastic. Definitely on my list of "eventual fixes", as pretty much all of my gauges have a bad sun-haze effect going for them.
It looks like you fabricated the panel from scratch, maybe? What material did you use? And just used the old panel for the template?
 
This looks fantastic. Definitely on my list of "eventual fixes", as pretty much all of my gauges have a bad sun-haze effect going for them.
It looks like you fabricated the panel from scratch, maybe? What material did you use? And just used the old panel for the template?
I ordered some sheets of carbon fiber off of ebay then used the old panel as templates. Very easy to do. With 2 sets of gauges and the carbon fiber I'm into the whole project for about $1000 and that includes new vinyl for the top pad. It will totally clean up the helm. I recoated the whole dash last weekend. The hardest part was stretching the vinyl to be seemless. That has taken me all morning
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That Dash looks great I’m kind of in the middle of that myself. I’m not going back with analog gauges I’m going back with get all digital stuff through to Garmin GPS units mounted in place of the instruments and using fox gateways on the engines to provide the signals. I really like the carbon fiber... I initially thought about using aluminum to fabricate my panels and using 3M dynoc carbon fiber material to wrap the panels with. It remains to be seen how I’m going to pursue it. But in the end all the panels will be replaced all the switches will be refurbished and I’ll go all digital with the instrumentation.
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