OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

[Maybe A Dancer]

I bought a roll of AQUA BLUE 120v LEDs

Would be a major improvement over the currently displayed URINE YELLOW

I'll give the right hand side a try today, but must be careful not to damage those "aquariums"

Here's my current non-access pics:

Hey, at least I got to vacuum up 26 years of schmutz from behind/below those cushions

PLEASE IGNORE the disgusting, stained carpet.

It's on the list but not before I seal the windshield base and some other more serious items.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Magic]

Are those of you running PSS shaft seals following this instruction to the letter? Mine does not have this and I’m going to ask the mechanic to put it in just in case an engine goes out and I have to run on one.

Note: Twin engine boats that can exceed 12 knots on a single engine must run a crossover line between seals to ensure both seals maintain water flow while running on only one engine.

Thanks

Greg

 

[fwebster]

Yes, I installed a crossover cooling line when I replaced my first Tides Strong Seal in 1997 on my 1996 450DA.

You should have crossover cooling lines on any drippless seal installation on a 450DA, whether it is a Tides or PSS type seal.

 

[Saverio]

I recalled someone mentioned about securing the forward cabin door. I realize mine had this add on I guess??

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I did all 3 sliding doors to secure them while underway:

Darn it - I'M ADDICTED TO CSR !

Is there such a thing as Boatacholics Anonymous?

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

An interesting 450 DA design feature is the portlites all being placed above the bowrail.

As compared to my 10 meter and others, it keeps them, for the most part, out of direct saltwater/seawater spray.

That said, rainwater, washwater, ALL WATER running over the bow will travel over and down these portlites.

During my search, I've seen numerous 25 year old 450 DA boats which have not seen any hull maintenance. It's expensive to have it done by a yard and time consuming for a DYI and as compared to a new boat gadget or toy, as my buddy says..."ya don't get anything for it"

Sealant dries out, gaskets dry up. With the portlites, water will find it's way into your boat in two ways:

These portlites are somewhat angled. Water will run off the bow and over the lens. It will collect around the bottom of the lens. Bad gasket? it comes in around the lens.

Likely the 25 year old sealant has dried out. Water runs over the bow and finds its way UNDER the stainless outer ring and into the boat.

Much of this water, especially the water that comes in behind the stainless trim ring will not be apparent on a casual glance, as it will run behind the trim and along the inside hullside wall.

It will run behind the fwd head, under the sink and may even drip out around the cabinet above the commode.

It will run down behind the stbd salon cabinets.

It will run down behind the cabinets in the fwd berth.

I even saw serious long-term water stains around the microwave on a 450 that I looked at.

Anyhow, the good news is that these portlite openings are solid fiberglass with no exposed balsa core.

I've removed, re-bedded and replaced the gaskets on all 10 of mine.

At this age if it hasn't yet been done, it needs to be done and should not be ignored.

Then there's the rebedding of the hatches, but that's another topic.

Here's some photos of my own repair.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Magic]

Where do you get the portlite lens? Or are these just acrylic and can be fabricated using the old one as a template?
I notice a couple of small "crows feet" splinters coming from around the bolt holes.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Where do you get the portlite lens? Or are these just acrylic and can be fabricated using the old one as a template?
I notice a couple of small "crows feet" splinters coming from around the bolt holes.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The lenses are factory original.

I cleaned everything up - all surfaces, replaced the gaskets, removed & rebedded all 10 portlites

Tedious but important

RWS

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

MOST EFFICIENT DISPLACEMENT SPEED - HULL SPEED CALCULATION:

I measured the waterline at 36.5'

This gives our boats a hull speed of 9.3 kts

Hull speed or displacement speed is the speed at which the wavelength of a vessel's bow wave is equal to the waterline length of the vessel. As boat speed increases from rest, the wavelength of the bow wave increases, and usually its crest-to-trough dimension (height) increases as well. When hull speed is exceeded, a vessel in displacement mode will appear to be climbing up the back of its bow wave.

From a technical perspective, at hull speed the bow and stern waves interfere constructively, creating relatively large waves, and thus a relatively large value of wave drag. Ship drag for a displacement hull increases smoothly with speed as hull speed is approached and exceeded, often with no noticeable inflection at hull speed.

The concept of hull speed is not used in modern naval architecture, where considerations of speed/length ratio or Froude number are considered more helpful.

Hull speed can be calculated by the following formula:

So..... I didn't write this but I'm damned good at cut and paste . . . .

For me it "feels" more like 7 kts but

max hull speed on the 450 is 9.3 KTS

anything above that you're pushing water till you're well on plane at 2000+ RPM

BEST !

RWS

 

[Dave Marshall]

Following up on the compass rebuild topic, Ritchie Navigation was able to determine that my compass is from the Navigator line, though the model number is not legible. They still offer a reconditioning service on this compass for $220. I takes about 5 weeks. The price includes full reconditioning, shipping back, and a 1 year warranty. I'm sending mine in per their instruction in a couple weeks when I'm back at the boat. If you know the model number of your compass you can send it to them to see if they can recondition yours.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

MOST EFFICIENT DISPLACEMENT SPEED - HULL SPEED CALCULATION:

I measured the waterline at 36.5'

This gives our boats a hull speed of 9.3 kts

Hull speed or displacement speed is the speed at which the wavelength of a vessel's bow wave is equal to the waterline length of the vessel. As boat speed increases from rest, the wavelength of the bow wave increases, and usually its crest-to-trough dimension (height) increases as well. When hull speed is exceeded, a vessel in displacement mode will appear to be climbing up the back of its bow wave.

From a technical perspective, at hull speed the bow and stern waves interfere constructively, creating relatively large waves, and thus a relatively large value of wave drag. Ship drag for a displacement hull increases smoothly with speed as hull speed is approached and exceeded, often with no noticeable inflection at hull speed.

The concept of hull speed is not used in modern naval architecture, where considerations of speed/length ratio or Froude number are considered more helpful.

Hull speed can be calculated by the following formula:

So..... I didn't write this but I'm damned good at cut and paste . . . .

For me it "feels" more like 7 kts but

max hull speed on the 450 is 9.3 KTS

anything above that you're pushing water till you're well on plane at 2000+ RPM

BEST !

RWS

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The 3100 series CAT engines like to RUN.

The point of this post is 9.3 kts is the CALCULATED MAXIUM hull (or displacement) speed for this length vessel.

The number does not take into account hull shape, prop pockets or how "SLIPPERY" the actual hull design is as it moves through the water.

I brought this up because I've been testing my boat for speed at every 100 rpm as well as WOT as I get her dialed in for max performance and efficiencies.

Interestingly her numbers improved after the CAT 250 hour service and aftercooler cleaning.

Another interesting observation on this hull setup is that advancing the throttles in 100 rpm increments, she actually looses SOG as she struggles to get on top of the water while approaching planing speed.

 

[Saverio]

Anyone replace the green 110 v lights. Mine are really dim and flickering

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Anyone replace the green 110 v lights. Mine are really dim and flickering

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Mine are also dim but fully functional.

I believe it is simply a diode - (unconfirmed)

FWIW -

As a result of my own boat search process, it appears to me that most of the 1995 models are 110/120 volt systems.

For some reason this was changed in 1996 to a split 220/110 system as all the 1996 panels I have seen contain the 220 v feature.

Not to hijack the thread, just a point of information.

BEST !

RWS

 

[The Bill Collector]

Anyone replace the green 110 v lights. Mine are really dim and flickering

We are 240 / 50 amp so I don't have line 1 & 2...

 

[fwebster]

If you have a cable master, your boat was ordered and built with the 120/240 volt system so one cable could power up the boat.

 

[E.Rice]

History of this ongoing issue, several times at dock and at anchor STBD will crank 4-5 seconds than start or not start at all. I could after several times cranking usually get it started. Eventfully it got worst and wouldn't start than I found I could toggle the master ignition switch and until I heard a click and then it would start immediately. Last Sunday fun day at the dock it wouldn't start no matter what I did. I had a spare 12V starter solenoid figured it was the issue after losing 2lbs of sweat replacing and confident this was my problem it wasn't. I also went ahead and replaced the switch on the helm for good measure and the 10amp inline fuse. I am guessing the click might be the fuel solenoid now. Nippon Denso cpl1613 fuel pump

Next thought is power not getting to fuel solenoid from starter or fuel solenoid is shot, headed back down to dock tonight. Wondering if anyone has any other ideas like to get this resolved - consuming my night thoughts

 

[The Bill Collector]

Cranking and not starting has the possibility of being lack fuel. Meaning your fuel solenoid is not opening and allowing fuel to pass. When I experienced this I rigged a jumper wire with an inline fuse and alligator clips on each end (I still carry this). Go from the positive side of the fuel solenoid to 12v positive, I used my main battery. You are standing there in the E.R. and it will be very noticeable. Now go to helm and start your engine, if it starts you now have intel on what rabbit hole to go down...

 

[E.Rice]

Yes lack of fuel is my thought - thanks good idea will allow me to be down there, think the fuel solenoid is not getting power to open or its toast. Had the same issue on the Genny and replaced fuel solenoid

 

[The Bill Collector]

Yes lack of fuel is my thought - thanks good idea will allow me to be down there, think the fuel solenoid is not getting power to open or its toast. Had the same issue on the Genny and replaced fuel solenoid

After replacing the fuel solenoids on both CATs and still experiencing the same issue, I replaced the 12-volt relay in the electrical box with guidance from FW & Barlow in NZ. The problem has not resurfaced in 10+ years.

 

[E.Rice]

After replacing the fuel solenoids on both CATs and still experiencing the same issue, I replaced the 12-volt relay in the electrical box with guidance from FW & Barlow in NZ. The problem has not resurfaced in 10+ years.

I have the Cummins with ford style starting solenoid - hopefully fuel selonoid is the issue