OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

[Magic]

After replacing the fuel solenoids on both CATs and still experiencing the same issue, I replaced the 12-volt relay in the electrical box with guidance from FW & Barlow in NZ. The problem has not resurfaced in 10+ years.

Barlow and I caught up for a beer last week as I recently acquired his 450 from another CSR member. I'm now the 3rd NZ owner and she is still in immaculate condition. It's great to be able to talk to former owners about the history.

The jumper lead for the fuel shutoff solenoid is still in the engine room for emergencies along with a spare 12v relay.

I'm not sure why the relay cooks itself. Possibly arcing "fuses" the contact points in the relay. Presumably a solenoid coil can discharge when power is removed (back EMF, I think it's called) and this might cause a problem over time.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Congrat's and welcome to the club !!!

 

[E.Rice]

Congrat's and welcome to the club !!!

I have the Cummins with ford style starting solenoid - hopefully fuel selonoid is the issue

Fuel solenoid is operating correctly even removed and held open fuel is getting to the injection pump and after trying to bleed injectors and took all filters off and had to fill up. For some reason the system had air seemed like it had a vacuum pulled open racors and air was sucked in (problem 1) we filled all filtera even switching tanks for good measure and purged system of air. We are getting fuel to the injection pump but that’s where it ends it is not coming out return line or injectors, opened and cranked no fuel. Mechanic has no experience with removing or testing injection pumps so I am getting referred to another company to remove and have it bench tested. Long hot night with no good results

 

[The Bill Collector]

The fuel hand pumps and the the open close valves are likely culprits too..

 

[E.Rice]

We have fuel pressure to the last secondary filter and the Denso injection pump opened the line and cranked to check but fuel is not getting through that pump to the nozzles - nothing when we cracked open to bleed the air no fuel. Calling around now to find a diesel company to come check out the injection pump and maybe pull and bench test.

 

[E.Rice]

Anyone replace the anti-siphon valves on the tanks - would you have a partno? Ordered new mechanical lift pump and going to replace this valve also ruling out everything, I do not have enough fuel pressure for the Denso injection pump that needs 20-25 psi. Also got the Racor gauges to see if I am pulling a vacuum.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Sorry I've been behind in my posting responses - will get caught up this week.

Anyway, my factory wiper arms/blades were in pieces. - literally

totally unusable

Just installed new pantograph arms and blades using the numbers posted by Dr. Webster.

I've got them adjusted but not perfectly.

Where do y'all "park" yours?

Also, any tips on adjusting the lazy arm would be appreciated.

BEST !

RWS

 

[mpatton]

Having been chasing the starboard starting issue for a couple of years, replaced all logical parts, had cat out ($$).... and for whatever reason this year no issues. I'm certain it didn't fix itself but... hard to diagnose now that it works!

 

[The Bill Collector]

Where do y'all "park" yours?

I park mine against the center windshield frame. I don't use them, as I am never seated while running the boat.

 

[Magic]

First overnight stay!
After I overcame the anchor drag anxiety, which took about 3 hours of debate with myself, the night was peaceful!

 

[Magic]

These gold / brass door handles (love 'em or hate 'em), I've decided to try and restore them (salt damage).
Seems to be going ok, but does anyone know whether they just have a clear coat spray over them or they have been coated in plastic (or some other material)?

Step 1 - test to see what's under the clear coat.

Step 2 - rip into it and polish.

Step 3 - I think I'll clear coat rattle spray - what do you think?

Thanks

Greg

 

[techmitch]

These gold / brass door handles (love 'em or hate 'em), I've decided to try and restore them (salt damage).
Seems to be going ok, but does anyone know whether they just have a clear coat spray over them or they have been coated in plastic (or some other material)?

View attachment 132269

Step 1 - test to see what's under the clear coat.

View attachment 132270

Step 2 - rip into it and polish.

View attachment 132271

Step 3 - I think I'll clear coat rattle spray - what do you think?

Thanks

Greg

Wow! That looks great. Are they solid brass? If so, the soft rags you use to take wax off saved in a bag are your friend going forward.

 

[Magic]

Wow! That looks great. Are they solid brass? If so, the soft rags you use to take wax off saved in a bag are your friend going forward.

Fortunately they're Brass (thumbs up Sea Ray!).

Finally applied 3 coats of Everbrite coatings using a sponge. I think it's fine for a novice DIY.

 

[techmitch]

Fortunately they're Brass (thumbs up Sea Ray!).

Finally applied 3 coats of Everbrite coatings using a sponge. I think it's fine for a novice DIY.

View attachment 132461

Looks great! It will only be lower maintenance if you tell everybody to keep their rings away from them. Lol

 

[The Bill Collector]

• A little fly by with Seattle in the background.
• 
  
• 

 

[The Bill Collector]

Ran this paddle wheel around Seattle today... A little different from my 450DA.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Bell Harbor Marina, downtown Seattle...

 

[Magic]

AC Perko sea water strainer clean.
You all have probably done this a lot in the past but this is new for me. Decided the sea strainer needed cleaning for the air conditioning.
1. Looks like it hasn't been cleaned in 20 years

2. The older style takes a cork gasket 493-DP5-99M
Amazon.com: Perko 0493DP599M Spare Gasket Kit for 1/2" and 3/4" Intake Water Strainer - Cork : Automotive

3. clean the strainer and bowl with a toothbrush (could have pulled this apart as well but it seemed pointless). remove the drain plug at the bottom and flush all the crud out.

4. Put the lid back with new cork

5. Look at all the crud that came out. Also I found the bilge line is potentially blocked after the point marked by the red arrow pointing up.
Any ideas on techniques to unblock this - the line is quite long going back past the starboard engine to the stern exit point.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Something BLOCKING the bilge output hose AFTER the backflow valve?

 

[Magic]

Something BLOCKING the bilge output hose AFTER the backflow valve?

Yes. I pulled the backflow valve, and a heap of water flowed back into the bilge. So the bilge pump will pump until the outflow hose is full and then just sit there trying to pump. None of the water is expelled out of the side of the boat, so it’s blocked in the outflow hose somewhere. Maybe some drain cleaner poured on from the outside, but I need to get it past the hose bend just inside the ER (hard to describe).