Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

No idea, maybe zincs, from outside looks perfect from inside all pitted
Just for precaution I will fabricate 2 new ones with D’Angelo.
How much are they charging you for the elbows? After a thorough search I haven't found anywhere that stocks them.
 
Could someone post the step by step process for changing the t-stats. Looks like the alternator needs to come off. Maybe be some other stuff. Thanks in advance.
 
Could someone post the step by step process for changing the t-stats. Looks like the alternator needs to come off. Maybe be some other stuff. Thanks in advance.

My me memory blows, but I took pictures for a breadcrumb trail .....
Drain as much of the coolant you can. 5+ gallons

Radiator removal
20160407_184848.jpg
Remove belt
20160407_184853.jpg

Remove hoses
20160407_184902.jpg

Remove alternator....I was able to swing it away in location
20160407_184857.jpg

Pull the T-Stat housing

20160407_184439.jpg
 
Thanks Paul! Oh joy, I get to remove the starboard belt guard again. One of my least favorite recurring things to do.
 
FWIW, I was able to drop the alternator enough to take the thermostat housing out sideways, because of that I didn't remove the tank and unhook those little hoses, just the big one going to the heat exchanger. The belt tensioner had to come off on mine, there's two flat head countersunk bolts that use torx bit under there that go into the side of the housing.
Belt Routing 8.3 6CTA.JPG

Maybe a little harder to access everything on your boats by the looks of your pictures, are you able to get behind the engine or are you working leaning over the top?
 
FWIW, I was able to drop the alternator enough to take the thermostat housing out sideways, because of that I didn't remove the tank and unhook those little hoses, just the big one going to the heat exchanger. The belt tensioner had to come off on mine, there's two flat head countersunk bolts that use torx bit under there that go into the side of the housing.
View attachment 58013
Maybe a little harder to access everything on your boats by the looks of your pictures, are you able to get behind the engine or are you working leaning over the top?
Straight drives, so t-stats on port engine are to the inside. Plenty of front, side, top access there. Starboard t-stats are outward so mostly working from the top there. I'll practice and refine a prices on the port side, first.

FYI I have had a t-stat "clang" on the starboard for several years, when I squeeze the big hose. Haven't addressed it because That engine heats and cools normally. But previous poster above made me think about it again. I guess it's broke so the passsge is open.
 
Bill, might be an opportunity to change that coolant return hose from the H/X pipe to the block on the starboard side that we talked about. Also be sure to buy t-stats with your serial number, 2000-2001 could be 160 or 180 degrees.
 
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Bill, might be an opportunity to change that coolant return hose from the H/X pipe to the block on the starboard side that we talked about. Also be sure to buy t-stats with your serial number, 2000-2001 could be 160 or 180 degrees.
FWIW my 2001 had 160s. Have a talk with seaboard marine. They can recommend the right temp based on how you run the boat.


Thanks Paul! Oh joy, I get to remove the starboard belt guard again. One of my least favorite recurring things to do.
Haha, I hear ya. But it is a cake walk compared to R&R the port engine water pump. That is my least favorite mechanical job on the 400db
 
FWIW my 2001 had 160s. Have a talk with seaboard marine. They can recommend the right temp based on how you run the boat.



Haha, I hear ya. But it is a cake walk compared to R&R the port engine water pump. That is my least favorite mechanical job on the 400db
Mine are 160s. Never wavered a bit from 160 on either engine in my five years of ownership.

I've done 3 port pump replaces, Paul. Mine, RayO's 400DB and another 400DB in Charleston. Hopefully no more, but I have it down to a manageable process.
 
I was all set to put the 180 T-stats in before spring launch. My cooling system pumps a lot of water because I put on Tony's SMX pumps. (His impellers really hold up.) Therefore I figured lots of safety, so go for a hotter engine. The Cummins mechanic who I work with was all set to go and then Cummins released a bulletin saying to stay with the 160. Seaboard Marine seems to agree with this revised point of view.
I'm a bit disappointed but we are erring on the side of caution rather than use the better performance with a hotter engine of 180 stats. Therefore we only changed the coolant and serviced the aftercoolers instead. My gauges never read over 160F before and still don't. Totally reliable...
 
We are coming up to our 1000 service. Does anyone have a list on what is involved with the 1000 hour cummins service
Thanks John
 
We are coming up to our 1000 service. Does anyone have a list on what is involved with the 1000 hour cummins service
Thanks John
Well, if the engines got regular annual maintenance/monitoring and cooling system cleaning every 2-3 years, there really isn't anything special about 1000 hours. That said, if you don't think any of the following had ever been done I'd do them:

Check/adjust valve lash
Replace coolant
Replace belts
Replace airsep filters
Replace seawater pumps
Remove/clean aftercoolers
Clean heat exchangers
Replace transmission oil coolers
Replace transmission oil
Clean/test fuel coolers
Replace seawater cooling hoses.
 
I would add thermostats and hose clamps to the list. Also belt tensioners and I rebuilt my alternators for good measure.
 
+1 on belt tensioners. Especially if they are throwing red dust!
 
just got our engine oil report back from both engines. it is showing Aluminum levels at Port is 45 and starboard is 28. All other items on the tests are within range.
Anyone have this issue and what could be a cause to these levels. Boat is an 01 460 sundancer

Thanks
John
 
Nice article on taking oil samples and interpretation of elevated Aluminum.

https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/maintenance/aluminum-engine-oil

The first question I would ask is when was a sample taken previous to this one? Next, was this sample taken correctly (engine run till hot, sample line adequately purged before grabbing sample)?

Jaybeaux
 
Nice article on taking oil samples and interpretation of elevated Aluminum.

https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/maintenance/aluminum-engine-oil

The first question I would ask is when was a sample taken previous to this one? Next, was this sample taken correctly (engine run till hot, sample line adequately purged before grabbing sample)?

Jaybeaux
thanks that article is good reading. Oil was taken after engine heated up and i pulled it mid stream from the oil pump out. My original oil sample was last year when we purchased and the levels then were within range and showed very low Aluminum 2 ppm. I was thinking possible piston wear.

John
 
thanks that article is good reading. Oil was taken after engine heated up and i pulled it mid stream from the oil pump out. My original oil sample was last year when we purchased and the levels then were within range and showed very low Aluminum 2 ppm. I was thinking possible piston wear.

John
I would do it again by using an extraction tube down the dipstick tube about 2 inches into the oil. That guarantees no contamination. I personally don't trust samples taken any other way (hey, but that's just me).
 

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