One Engine Operations

With straight drives the rudders don't do much for steering at slow speeds. If you are in a tight marina you may need a short tow out or more as 370Dancer mentioned above. Once clear and ready to get on course to your repair facility the highest speed you can attain without plowing will yield the best steering results. Be sure to lock the prop shaft of the non running engine to preserve your shaft seal from overheating.

As far as the canvas on my 270 is concerned. Yes that is a bimini top, the rear section that is not
up in that pic is called a camper top and the side panels are called the enclosure.
I saw in your other thread where you asked about new canvas and were referred to your local shops for fabrication. (there must be a ton of places in Florida) That's gonna be your best bet.

Welcome to CSR and please update your user information i.e. Your location, year of your boat and drive configuration so members can help you better in the future.

Edit: @Creekwood beat me to some of it. Oh, and just an FYI, 40 miles at 8 mph is 5 hours.
One important thing is - unless you have crossover shaft cooling water you must lash off the dead shaft to prevent it from spinning and ruining the shaft seal.
 
Planning to do the Florida Loop this summer - handling mostly sane issues ahead of time.

Will likely add the crossover plumbing for the shaft seals.

Here's the question:

Given: water will follow the path of least resistance.

If one engine is running, let's say 1,000 RPM, and the other is not, I'd be afraid that the pressurized cooling system raw water could back up into the non-running engine to the point of damaging the turbo and or risking water ingress into the cylinders visa the open valves.

Perhaps some sort of check valve would be required to insure the raw water/cooling water travels in the intended direction only.

Does this make sense???

BEST !

RWS
 
Planning to do the Florida Loop this summer - handling mostly sane issues ahead of time.

Will likely add the crossover plumbing for the shaft seals.

Here's the question:

Given: water will follow the path of least resistance.

If one engine is running, let's say 1,000 RPM, and the other is not, I'd be afraid that the pressurized cooling system raw water could back up into the non-running engine to the point of damaging the turbo and or risking water ingress into the cylinders visa the open valves.

Perhaps some sort of check valve would be required to insure the raw water/cooling water travels in the intended direction only.

Does this make sense???

BEST !

RWS


I never really considered that to be a problem....but I suppose it could be. Most of the time you find yourself on one shaft you are just motoring along where the raw water pressure is around 5-10 psi. Given the path of least resistance is the seal....it should exit there. Higher rpms could increase the raw water pressure to a point where it pushes back into the raw water of the off engine.

I haven't seen this create a problem but it is one that can be easily solved with using these:

514ZzHS2s6L._AC_SL1100_.jpg








https://www.amazon.com/Check-Valve-...ocphy=9008154&hvtargid=pla-452864970235&psc=1
 

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