Replace Holding Tank?

[Suncatcher]

Just bought this Sundancer 270. Surveyer said I should consider replacing the holding tank due to a crack. But I don’t see a crack however there is a crinkle (?) in the top. Photos below. Does it need replacement?

Also what are the wires for that comes out the top? I can’t find a monitor for it.

thx

 

[Creekwood]

The tanks in those years did not have a suction relief valve, so really strong pump out systems can partially collapse the tank when being pumped out. As long as it is not actually cracked, no need to replace the tank. However you should install a vaccum relief valve if there is not one. You install it on the top of the tank on a flat spot.
https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/outdo...tation/accessories/dometic-tank-saver-_-25365

The wires are for the tank level sender which is what that cover holds. The vent line is also attached to that cover so that the tank manufacturer did not have to have a separate hole.

Welcome to CSR. I see you are in Penetang. I am at Hindson Marina.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Ditto

 

[Lazy Daze]

If that's all it is, as others mentioned, I wouldn't worry about it. Kinda looks like someone dropped something on it - there's a heavy scratch right there?

Check with the surveyor as to what he was referencing. The tanks from that era sometimes came out of the mold with a weak spot on the underside where they were "held" in the mold during manufacturing. The weak spot would open up to be a crack on the bottom and it would leak. It may or may not always leak - depending on the amount of fluid in the tank.

 

[bobeast]

A crack in the top should not be much of an issue. In the bottom or side would ...well...stink. Those wires in the top go to your gage which on mine, is located on the DC panel in the cabin. Its easy to miss because it doesn't light up until you turn on the head system switch. Then it could have one or more burned out LEDs (very common on this era) in which case you would get no indication. You can test the gage by filling the tank with water to see if the empty, ½, full leds light up in turn.

That's also a good way of determining if you actually have a leak.

 

[Suncatcher]

The tanks in those years did not have a suction relief valve, so really strong pump out systems can partially collapse the tank when being pumped out. As long as it is not actually cracked, no need to replace the tank. However you should install a vaccum relief valve if there is not one. You install it on the top of the tank on a flat spot.
https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/outdo...tation/accessories/dometic-tank-saver-_-25365

The wires are for the tank level sender which is what that cover holds. The vent line is also attached to that cover so that the tank manufacturer did not have to have a separate hole.

Welcome to CSR. I see you are in Penetang. I am at Hindson Marina.

Hello neighbour…I’m in Beacon Bay Marina.
Thanks for the advise. I’ll install the vacuum relief valve.
I haven’t come across the tank level monitor…more investigating!

 

[techmitch]

Hello neighbour…I’m in Beacon Bay Marina.
Thanks for the advise. I’ll install the vacuum relief valve.
I haven’t come across the tank level monitor…more investigating!

If you have a vacuflush system, the monitor display/level indicator will be on the panel in the head right next to the key switch for the vacuflush system.

 

[Creekwood]

Hello neighbour…I’m in Beacon Bay Marina.
Thanks for the advise. I’ll install the vacuum relief valve.
I haven’t come across the tank level monitor…more investigating!

On mine, when you turn on the head system breaker, the tank fill level gets displayed on the panel by the switch.

 

[HawkX66]

Mine has almost the same wrinkle. Doesn't change how it operates for me. No issues.
For mine, I suspect someone sat on it, stood on it or sucked to hard emptying the tank.
Mine is supposed to light up next to the key I believe. I haven't let it get that full yet.

 

[Suncatcher]

It seems to me that a red light always turned on when I turned the key. I just thought it was confirming that it was operational. I’ll check it again.

And install the vacuum relief valve…in the spring.
Right now I’m planning to make a frame for the canvas winter cover that came with the boat. I was just told that 2” PVC would only crack in the cold weather so back to the drawing board. But that is for another thread

thanks to all for remarks and suggestions!

 

[Lazy Daze]

I know that some have used regular Sched 40 (white) with good results. However, I agree that I wouldn't feel comfortable with it. You could step up to Sched 80 - it has thicker walls. The key is to tent the cover as high as possible to lessen the snow load. However, your cover is going to be the limiting factor and only allow you to go so high, unlike something like shrink wrap or a having a cover made to YOUR frame. But regular 'ol dimensional lumber works very well.

 

[Creekwood]

Mine has almost the same wrinkle. Doesn't change how it operates for me. No issues.
For mine, I suspect someone sat on it, stood on it or sucked to hard emptying the tank.
Mine is supposed to light up next to the key I believe. I haven't let it get that full yet.

Hawk, I hate to tell you, but your engine fell out.

 

[Suncatcher]

I know that some have used regular Sched 40 (white) with good results. However, I agree that I wouldn't feel comfortable with it. You could step up to Sched 80 - it has thicker walls. The key is to tent the cover as high as possible to lessen the snow load. However, your cover is going to be the limiting factor and only allow you to go so high, unlike something like shrink wrap or a having a cover made to YOUR frame. But regular 'ol dimensional lumber works very well.

Thanks

I’m considering using 2x4s…as most are doing in my marina. But, as you say, I have to take a good look at my coverto determine how high I can get it. I’ll probably go as high as it can and see how it handles the winter here.

I’ve also got a cover that only covers the windshield and buttons behind the aft seats. Is it worth putting both of them on for added protection?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Thanks

I’m considering using 2x4s…as most are doing in my marina. But, as you say, I have to take a good look at my coverto determine how high I can get it. I’ll probably go as high as it can and see how it handles the winter here.

I’ve also got a cover that only covers the windshield and buttons behind the aft seats. Is it worth putting both of them on for added protection?

Your second cover is called a "cockpit cover". That should have a short pole, or two, to keep it tented. However, that's really only for rain - it will be too flat for snow load.

Can't use both... if the cockpit cover is on, how will you properly tent the full cover - which, I assume, would naturally tent higher - and need a higher support.

There's lot's of "full" covers, though - so it's hard to give any accurate advice without knowing more about it.

 

[Spark600]

It seems to me that a red light always turned on when I turned the key. I just thought it was confirming that it was operational. I’ll check it again.

And install the vacuum relief valve…in the spring.
Right now I’m planning to make a frame for the canvas winter cover that came with the boat. I was just told that 2” PVC would only crack in the cold weather so back to the drawing board. But that is for another thread

thanks to all for remarks and suggestions!

I had a Fisher canvas for my last boat an I made the supports out of 3" and 2" PVC pipe and never had a problem for the five years I used the cover and the guy that bought the boat still uses it to today,

 

[Fill Ess]

Hawk, I hate to tell you, but your engine fell out.

Look on the bright side: bilge access is pretty good!

 

[Nater Potater]

That PVC jungle-gym of @Spark600 is impressive!
While trying to outrun the fall weather last year, I quickly cobbled one together out of 2 X 4's and threw a silver hay tarp over the top:

...and re-used it again this year when we had it wrapped.

 

[Pirate Lady]

I love MD. Winter cover same as summer.

 

[dtfeld]

One other possible option for a suction vent instead of curtting holes. Add a Big Orange Filter, has a vent (albeit small) and its a Canadian Product to boot!! Fits right were the current filter sits and is a 5 minute job (if you can reach it).

https://bigorangefilter.com/collections/related-products/products/big-orange-oem-filter


And what's this talk about Winter? Just getting to be the best time of the year! Other wise know as late Summer!!

 

[Suncatcher]

Your second cover is called a "cockpit cover". That should have a short pole, or two, to keep it tented. However, that's really only for rain - it will be too flat for snow load.

Can't use both... if the cockpit cover is on, how will you properly tent the full cover - which, I assume, would naturally tent higher - and need a higher support.

There's lot's of "full" covers, though - so it's hard to give any accurate advice without knowing more about it.

Good point about using the cockpit cover under the winter cover!