Replaced EIMS with hard wiring, port engine won’t start

Dta

New Member
Nov 2, 2020
8
Boat Info
300 Sundancer 2005
Engines
Twin MCM 5.0 MPI w/Bravo III drives
Hey Guys,

Need some help. 2005 Sundancer with twin 5l MPI Bravo lll with 190 hrs, I had to replace the failed EIM units and go to hard wired helm with fuse boxes. All functions of the previous soft switch pad work properly, and the starboard engine fires up perfectly, but not the port. It cranks fine, but won’t turn over. Checked fuel pressure(ok), replaced fuel filter, replaced plugs, wires, distributor, swapped idle control and ecm, and ran a diagnostic on the engine. No fault codes found. Checking compressing today. Do you think there is an issue caused by the replacement of the EIM’s? Noticed that two connections from the AFT EIM were not made, the 9. Smartcraft Unswitched Power/Volvo EDU, and 10. System Monitor. Any ideas why the port engine won’t start?
 
Who did the wiring install?
Could be just something got knocked loose under the helm.
Did it ever run after the new wiring work?
Stop throwing parts at that engine until you narrow it down.

Check ignition switch connections, and engine harness plug under helm (should be a 8 pin rubber block)
I would guess yeah you need the smart network to work, do you have smartcraft gauges?

How did you identify "# 9" tag on wire?
Schematic shows pin 9 on aft EIM is the Mercathode system power. (which should definitely be 24x7 power)
 
The technician bypassed the boat wiring and tried to start the engine with the same negative result. No 9 in my wiring diagram is Smartcraft unswitched power. If I’ve done this properly, see attached file. Having bypassed wiring from the helm and still not having the port fire up leads me to believe it’s not loose wires, but am I missing something in what you have suggested that bypassing the helm wiring would still need to be checked to endure it’s not electrical?
05BBEB92-C2DA-453A-9BCC-03971356DCA8.png
05BBEB92-C2DA-453A-9BCC-03971356DCA8.png
 
If the tech bypassed the ignition properly, yes that should eliminate the new work.

I'm going to start of how I always do when trying to troubleshoot electrical and engine problems.
First I am a former USCG Machinery Technician, I was a marine mechanic, I am a ASE certified master HD Truck technician and Auto technician. Most of that was 20 years ago. I currently am a Senior Systems Engineer/Infrastructure Architect for computer systems. I mention this so you understand I am not asking random questions. And please respond to each question specifically. This way I know what you've done and that you have completed what I asked. It's hard enough to troubleshoot when the engine is right in front of me, over the Internet adds a lot of confusion.

So rules:
Every diagnostic test you make should prove or disprove something specific.
Each step should prove something works or something does not.

So again,
The engine operated normally before the wiring work? Y/N
Did the engine ever work after the initial helm rewire? Y/N
You "replaced" the entire distributor? or the cap and rotor?

You state you have fuel pressure, when?
Let the pressure bleed off, or relieve the pressure in the rail. (zero)
Cycle the ignition key, does the fuel pump run and build pressure again?
(if yes, this proves the ignition circuit has power, and is operating the fuel pump main relay)

Have you tested for spark at the plug wire ends?
Have you pulled a plug out?
Was it wet or dry?
If wet was it gasoline? (be sure its not water)
 
Ok, so I am watching this thread closely now. I don't have much to add other than Hughespat57 has my respect an undivided attention. My guess is accidental disconnect of system wiring somewhere in fuel/ignition system during prior work. Engine turns over but wont start. will be interested to see outcome. Please keep us posted.
 
If you have spark, fuel, timing and compression it should run. At least that use to be the case.
 
Ok, problem solved. Bad fuel. Even though we tried to start the engine using ether, apparently that wasn’t enough to make it fire.

Thanks Hughespat57 for your very prompt help and suggestions. It’s very much appreciated.
 
Well that wasnt what I was expecting. Sort of anticlimatic. Suggestion. Go buy a whole lot of seafoam and run through the fuel system to support not plugging up the injectors with what crappy fuel was in there that happen to run through them during the continual attempts to start it. Even better, drain that crappy fuel completely and then put in no ethanol fuel with a bunch of seafoam.
Ok, problem solved. Bad fuel.[/QUOTE
 

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