Replacing Cool Fuel III

Ron you don't have the isolator on correctly, take a real good look at how it sits on the pump and make sure it's in that position when you tighten the cover down. You still havn't mentioned how the cover looks under the reg.
 
Scof
I left the pumps at the boat so I can't look at them until I get down there next weekend. Thanks for your help.
 
I was under the assumption that the pressure regulator hose was a vacuum line.
 
675-9-33211.jpg


This is a pic of it. That screen part drops into the top of the pump module and the hose slips over the spout. I don't have any of this stuff at home but I wonder if it somehow allows air movement in only one direction. I'll have to take it off and give it a blow. LOL!
 
Ron,
I have been patiently waiting for you to post on your resolution. Do you have one?
 
He does, but I don't think he wants to talk about it..........

Dale
 
Wig, I didn't want to get into this but since you ask and since I know you are a student of these stupid CF things...

Firstly, I gave up on it and bought a complete CF unit, slapped it on and it worked fine. I put the housing in my garage and went boating. Couple of days later I got to talking about the problem with my Dad. I was showing him the new housing that I bought (the one I couldn't get to work) and as I'm doing this sort of show-and-tell thing, explaining to him how it is supposed to work I notice an threaded orifice that is not plugged/capped. I then remember that on the other CFs that I've handled (2 old and 2 brand new) there was a brass plug of some kind in this hole. So I run to the computer to look at the exploded parts diagram...


Item #5 below - CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY. (Item 5 includes item 6, as the parts of item 6 are NSS [not sold separately]).



When you buy the housing (item #1 below) alone, they don't give you Item 5. So, of COURSE no vacuum was created and no fuel flowed into the filter chamber b/c there was literally an opening to the outside world from the inside of the unit. Why I didn't notice this in the 5 hours I was messing around with it last weekend is beyond me.

The only stuff that comes with the housing are the nipples, a brass fuel line fitting and the blue wingnut drain plug.

$387 folly. But now I have a spare!!





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Lol! I feel for you.
My CF iii (port) is still original. Waiting for the inevitable failure. My original failure (starboard) was corrosion between the water side and fuel side causing fuel to be forced out the exhaust. I saved the pumps/filter from it, just need a housing to put them in when it finally fails. Hint hint. ;)
 
I'm going to hang on to this one as a spare. Pick yourself up an 8M0047215 from THESE guys and assembly yourself a new one. This was the best price I could find, with free and fast shipping. Just pull the check valve assembly, filter holder, pumps and all bolts out of your old one. I wish I could tell you it will work but i can't. Scoflaw had success and it's likely I would have if not for my oversight.
 
My bad. I sh!t canned the old housing not know about the check valve. Thx for the tip.
 
But you have a ck valve on the port one that you can recycle.
 
True that. When you buy the housing alone, how does it arrive as far as the water fittings? Threaded?
 
Threaded female 3/8" NPT. Comes with the two nipples. Strip your pumps, filter and plug (possibly your brass fuel fitting) from the old one and let her rip. Just be sure to get those rubbber gasket/grommets set up properly.
 
Ron,

The more I read this thread, I am glad my former 8.1s had the CF2. I believe I would "down grade" a CF3 to the older config. Much simpler...

Looking forward to seeing you in 9 days!
 
Carter
It's a pretty good system - just expensive to replace! Not sure if you can downgrade the system if you wanted to though.
See ya in AC. You still coming stag?
 
So here's a "Check Valve Assembly" kit. The kit supplies two things that you won't need

1. a plug that closes another orefice - your new housing comes with this plug already in place)
2. a seal that goes inside the check valve hole. The new housing comes with that seal already in place.

Lower right of the pic is the old check valve assembly, removed from the old Cool Fuel unit. It consists of the plug (with rubber o-ring) and stem, the spring and a metal ball. The seal, which is basically a seat for the ball to sit up against, seems pressed into the orefice of the old Cool Fuel. Not sure how easy it would be to get but leave it in there since the new housing comes with one already pressed in. BTW, the ball is not attached to the spring - I just sat it up on the spring for the picture.

You can see the hole for the assembly in the 12 o'clock position of the housing. The other holes are threaded mounting holes for the bracket that retains the CF to the engine.

If you stick a wire into the check valve assembly hole you'll find that it leads directly to the pump chamber of the housing. So if it isn't closed up, the pump will do nothing more than suck air through that hole.

106_4995_zps95d75aa2.jpg
 
Ron or anyone else that has done this replacement...
One of mine has finally started link and I went to replace with a new one. I am unable to remove the fuel outlet line (pg 2A-4) and I have been using this manual http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser40.html#/0 as my reference along with this post. How does one remove it I have taken out the fuel outlet screw and tried to pull it straight out as they describe, but either myself or a friend could get it. Is there a trick or tool that I am missing?

Thanks,
 
can anyone tell me if water should constantly come out of the plug removed while the engine is running on the gen IIIdid this by mistake and a flow of water rushed out.
 
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