Replacing Fuse Block

argus1

Member
Apr 12, 2015
196
Apollo Beach, FL
Boat Info
2011 350 Sundancer
Engines
MerCruiser 377 MAG ECT w/Bravo III Drives, Axius
My 2011 350 Sundancer has a fuse block under the console that using blade type connectors that push on the spades on the fuse block (similar to the one the picture below but mine is no way close to being organized and tidy).
2f8809edfb05e2a4b2d4d18569ec0867.jpg


I have a tendency of pulling of a connector and cannot determine what space the wires goes. I am considering replacing a Blue Seas Fuse panel like this that uses ring connectors because they are more secure. Any thoughts?
3733490_1500.06092018103002.jpg
 
Huh? The fuse locations are identified on the fuse block and the wires are not only color coded, but also marked with their purpose. The blue seas fuse block is a good product, but it doesn't look like you gain anything.
 
Huh? The fuse locations are identified on the fuse block and the wires are not only color coded, but also marked with their purpose. The blue seas fuse block is a good product, but it doesn't look like you gain anything.

Most of the the wires that connect to the fuse block on my boat are not color coded. The original electronics have all been replaced so the wire colors now do not match anything from the factory. After I wrote this I did some research and discovered the ring connectors that are screwed into the fuse panel are preferred. A wire that has come loose and not noticed could cause a spark under the console and short out critical safety devices.
 
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I was just pointing out out sea ray color coded and permanently marked all of the wires they installed. If some prior owner hacked up your wiring I still don't see what changing your fuse block is going to accomplish. A Brother P-Touch label printer and their flexible label material for wiring marking might be a more effective solution. But if ripping out a functioning fuse block floats your boat, then go for it brother.
 
Spade connectors are just fine, they're not going to just pop off and create a fire storm

What am I missing here. I mentioned the problem is when I go under the console I manage pull a connector off. This has happened to me more than once. Multiple installers have replaced/ added electronics on the boat. Now there is a birds nest of wires under the console and it is almost impossible to tell what wire goes to where. I saying I am having this problem on my boat. The answer cannot be is that I don't have a problem and the blade wires will not come off - I have done at this least three times. Marine Max when they installed new electronics on the boat added a Blue Seas fuse block but did not label any wires. So I have two fuse blocks under the console and very few wires are labeled.
 
I personally like and have used that Blue Sea fuse block...top notch.

I also have a messy and old fuse block under my dash from multiple electronics upgrades. Once I have everything installed, that will be on my project list. I say redo it, remark the wires and use the supplied labels. It will look great.

Post pictures, or it didn’t happen!
 
As a relative new boater, I research and read constantly to learn and understand how things work on my boat. Because boats were a mystery to me, I relied on the professionals to do work for me. I am amazed about the poor quality of work some of these professionals have done for me. Just one example, I had MarineMax replace the anchor light as part of new installation a radar. After I got the boat back, I had no rear mast light with the running lights. When I checked the wiring leading the anchor light, I discovered that of the three wires there was one hot lead not connected. When I applied current to this the all-around combination light worked as intended. There are many others examples - like telling me that I need to get my fuel polished ($1000.00) because one engine was cutting off when the culprit was a loose battery connection. After many $1,000’s of dollars for work that had to reworked and always the answer was the problem was something else unrelated; I decided that I need to learn how to do things myself.

Back to my original question, I read this on West Marine’s website
"Ring Terminals
For permanent secure termination. Ring terminals can’t pull off, and for that reason are preferred over spade terminals. Per ABYC E-11.14.4.1.11, “Ring and captive spade type terminal connectors shall be the same nominal size as the stud.” https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs

By the way here is the the professionals left the fuse block on my boat. These are best I could get through the bird's nest of wires.
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That is a mess. The terminals are not correctly heat shrink'd. I think a new Blue Sea with ring terminals, correctly heat shrink'd, labled and loomed, would be a great pride in ownership job.
 
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I don't think the terminal block type is the issue. I think you just need to re-route some of the wires. The spade terminals can become loose overtime from people moving wires around many times. One other trick is you can take needle nose pliers and apply a light force to clench up the spacing. You can get the spade terminal extremely tight that they won't pop off anymore. In fact sometimes too tight that you can't get it back on, so you have to pry something in there to open it back up. If you are doing enough of these, cut a shim down and clench it against the shim for accurate spacing.

And +1 on the label maker.
 
Had a hodgepodge mess on my old boat.
Replaced blockS with new blue seas blocks to neaten things up, and eventually replaced all connectors.
It’s an inexpensive and worthwhile project.
You can get an assortment of heat shrink ring connectors on Amazon.
I keep an assortment of them, along with heat shrink blade connectors, handy for repairs.
 
I started out with a complete mess, over the years of adding electronics, then installed the Blue Seas 12 circuit fuse block with grounds
 

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Thanks all for sharing. I am waiting on UPS to deliver the ring terminal connectors that I ordered. I moving wiring from the new electronic devices installations to a Blue Seas Fuse Block. One of the problems that I am correcting is make sure that the correct size fuse is used for each circuit. You guys are truly inspirational.
 
Hi, I’ve just replaced the fuse box in my Sundancer 260 with the Blue Seas box. Looks great.

I need to extend the positive supply wire by about 20cm. Anyone know what gauge the wire is used by SeaRay for this?
 

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