Replacing original battery charger on '07 38DA

Atalla

Active Member
Sep 1, 2020
244
Seattle
Boat Info
2007 38 Sundancer
Engines
Twin Merc 8.1 S Horizon V-Drives
I am planning a like for like replacement of the Intellipower charger on my 38DA. One that supports AGM charging. My 4 new AGMs are 440 total amp/hr so I believe the guidance is a minimum of 44 amp charger, so I expect I'll pick up a 50 or 60 amp charger.

While I will take recommendations on the charger for sure, I am mostly interested in whether replacing this is a reasonable DIY job. I'm pretty comfortable with DIYs...notably, I have a working Kohler generator, so I must have some talent...but would welcome any guidance on risks. My instinct is that this shouldn't be complicated, but those are often famous last words.

Thanks.
 
I have the same boat. I haven’t swapped mine, but it seems like there is a reasonable amount of access to do the swap. If you’re doing one to one, there shouldn’t be much to look for. If you are increasing the charge current then you need to make sure the wiring can support it. It probably can, but you should check to confirm. The manual should give you details on what is needed.
 
Replacing the charger is one of the easier DIY jobs I've done on my boat. The ProMariner ProNautic P 1260 would be a good choice.
 
Replacing the charger is one of the easier DIY jobs I've done on my boat. The ProMariner ProNautic P 1260 would be a good choice.
That's what I like to hear!

I had been thinking of the ProNautic. Thanks!
 
Sorry, this the unit I have been looking at, if I don't go with the Promariner, I still have my original
 
I agree it is a DIY, but there is one area where the ProMariner installation instructions differ from Sea Ray's original installation on my 370DA. The instructions call for three (3) 12V fuses at the charger (one for each bank) sized a bit larger than the charger's total output (40 Amp is recommended for a 1230P charger). So in my case i installed a ProMariner Pronautic 1230P and installed three (3) - 40 Amp fuses as close as i could to the charger. From there you tie in the 12V wires to the three battery banks. So while it is pretty much plug and play the 12V wiring does require a bit more work. Note the 12V wires should be sized for the fuse size. In my case the original wires to each battery bank were sized to handle 40 Amps (8 guage and fairly short run to line side of battery switch - less than 10 feet). FWIW i used MAXI fuses, which made for a fairly neat compact installation.

I am not certain why SeaRay did not think it was necessary to protect these wire runs with a fuse in the original installation.
 
I agree it is a DIY, but there is one area where the ProMariner installation instructions differ from Sea Ray's original installation on my 370DA. The instructions call for three (3) 12V fuses at the charger (one for each bank) sized a bit larger than the charger's total output (40 Amp is recommended for a 1230P charger). So in my case i installed a ProMariner Pronautic 1230P and installed three (3) - 40 Amp fuses as close as i could to the charger. From there you tie in the 12V wires to the three battery banks. So while it is pretty much plug and play the 12V wiring does require a bit more work. Note the 12V wires should be sized for the fuse size. In my case the original wires to each battery bank were sized to handle 40 Amps (8 guage and fairly short run to line side of battery switch - less than 10 feet). FWIW i used MAXI fuses, which made for a fairly neat compact installation.

I am not certain why SeaRay did not think it was necessary to protect these wire runs with a fuse in the original installation.
Interesting; are you sure there isn't circuit breakers hidden? - All of the SR boats that I've owned had circuit breakers between the charger/converter and batteries. My 400DA (similar to the 370DA) which the main battery disconnect panel was in the cockpit next to the transom door had those circuit breakers behind the panel. You had to unscrew and pull the panel face out to accesss the three (3 battery banks) 50 amp button circuit breakers. Here is a pic of that boat's arrangement.
Regardless, very easy to R&R a charger/converter. Just make sure you remove the battery cables and shut down the AC power.
IMG_3613.JPG
 
Interesting; are you sure there isn't circuit breakers hidden? - All of the SR boats that I've owned had circuit breakers between the charger/converter and batteries. My 400DA (similar to the 370DA) which the main battery disconnect panel was in the cockpit next to the transom door had those circuit breakers behind the panel. You had to unscrew and pull the panel face out to accesss the three (3 battery banks) 50 amp button circuit breakers. Here is a pic of that boat's arrangement.
Regardless, very easy to R&R a charger/converter. Just make sure you remove the battery cables and shut down the AC power.
View attachment 120275

Good point. At some point SeaRay may have changed this up, but on a 1998 370DA these breakers are not there.

On a 370DA the batteries are about 4 feet away from the charger. There is a circuit breaker panel in that area but it does not have any CBs for the charger. 380DA may be different than a 370DA so not sure what OP has, just making him aware of the recommended installation procedures.
 
I just replace the old IntelliPower as it quit (not bad given it was original from 2000). I went with this:
https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/...eultra12volt40amp-marine-battery-charger.aspx
It can handle all types of batteries, has an internal fan, comes with battery temperature sensor. It can handle 90-260 incoming volts (good in case your slip has power fluctuations) also 11 pre-programmed charging curves plus one you can customize. Battery's can be de-sulfated with a separate setting.

It installed in the same spot as the Intellipower and I reused the stainless steel "roof, drip edge" that was on top of the Intellipower.

Watching the digital display change and adjust charging as I test run 12v drain on battery's showed this to be a very capable unit and easy to install.

As in any DIY electrical work: ALWAYS DISCONNECT SHORE POWER AND DISCONNECT ALL BATTERY'S INCLUDING THE ONE FOR THE GENERATOR!!
 
I just replace the old IntelliPower as it quit (not bad given it was original from 2000). I went with this:
https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/...eultra12volt40amp-marine-battery-charger.aspx
It can handle all types of batteries, has an internal fan, comes with battery temperature sensor. It can handle 90-260 incoming volts (good in case your slip has power fluctuations) also 11 pre-programmed charging curves plus one you can customize. Battery's can be de-sulfated with a separate setting.

It installed in the same spot as the Intellipower and I reused the stainless steel "roof, drip edge" that was on top of the Intellipower.

Watching the digital display change and adjust charging as I test run 12v drain on battery's showed this to be a very capable unit and easy to install.

As in any DIY electrical work: ALWAYS DISCONNECT SHORE POWER AND DISCONNECT ALL BATTERY'S INCLUDING THE ONE FOR THE GENERATOR!!

The Sterling ProCharge unit and the ProMariner ProNautic unit are identical. I believe they are or were made by the same company, with the Sterling sold mostly in Europe. Sterling is now being sold in US too. From Bay Marine Supply (BMS) Website:

"That the Sterling ProCharge Ultra resembles the ProMariner ProNautic is no accident - they were co-engineered and are jointly manufactured - the labels are the only difference. Until recently, the ProMariner chargers were sold in the North American market and the Sterling chargers were sold in Europe and the UK. Sterling has recently begun marketing in the U.S., and offers full support and a 5-year warranty from their operations center in Maine."

At the Bay Marine website the Sterling 12V 30A unit costs $323 and the 1230P ProMariner costs $491. For the 50 Amp unit the Sterling is $425 and the ProMariner is $683. Not sure how ProMariner sales will sustain with this price delta between two supposedly identical units.

BY the way - I made this comment in a similar prior thread - Biggest advantage to these new high tech chargers is that they do not boil the water out of the battery. My distilled water use has pretty much been reduced to nothing (but i still check monthly).
 
Installed photo in case anyone is thinking of getting one....I went with Sterling as it is made by the same company as ProNautic but cheaper due to a licensing deal.
IMG_2257[3494].JPG
 
Thanks for all the tips!

I do have a breaker for the charger on my 2007 and proximity is about 4’ as well. I will look into that 50A Sterling. Seems like a good choice and appreciate the info on it.
 
How do you guys figure out which charging profile to use? I’ve staring at the documentation for my AGMs and can’t figure out what would inform one vs the other or a custom profile. It appears the thresholds for the two profiles are all within the ranges specified by the battery itself. I’m sure I’m missing something.

I have Fullriver Full Throttle FT1100-31s.

Oh, and the install was cake other than the normal hard to reach places problems. Had to crimp on some new ring connectors since the post sizes were different but pretty straight forward as was reported.
 

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