Replacing yoke/u-joint assembly on Bravo 3

Danny Troy

Member
Oct 8, 2009
861
Candlewood Lake, CT
Boat Info
2003 280 Sundancer
Engines
496MAG w/genset
As the title says, I'm replacing the entire yoke/u-joint assembly on my Bravo 3. I noticed a few mentions online of aligning timing marks on the gears, which can be seen after removing the rear cover. Is this procedure necessary when only replacing the yoke assembly? From what I see in the service manual, it's more involved than just removing the cover, since it seems the shift linkage must be removed first. Any advice on this is much appreciated.
 
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You could use something like this to replace the universal joints without removing the input shaft assembly.
B409A416-6DEF-45DD-B600-A2D2E1A8F0BC.png
 
I did get a u-joint/ball joint set from Autozone. One of their loaner sets. I tried doing it, but it was nothing like I ever did on car u-joints, and gave up. Maybe it was because there was a fair amount of rust, from several years of water intrusion. I already have the assembly out, and have the new assembly ready to go in. I'm just waiting for an o-ring and oil seal to be delivered. It's also possible the oil seal or o-ring was leaking, so it's just as well I replace the whole thing and be done with it.
 
Might as well flip the cone clutch over while you're in there, obviously forward cone gets more wear t h a n the reverse cone
 
As it turns out I probably won't be removing the back cover after all. I stumbled on a post where someone said he was able to see the timing marks from the front. When I checked, sure enough you can see them. I'm glad about this since the three cover bolts were frozen. And even after applying heat they wouldn't budge. I'll do a pressure test to be sure the heat didn't melt any o-rings. Since it's a B3, because of the reservoir system, it will have to wait until it's mounted on the transom.
 
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I'll do a pressure test to be sure the heat didn't melt any o-rings. Since it's a B3, because of the reservoir system, it will have to wait until it's mounted on the transom.

There is a spring loaded check valve that should seal shut with the drive removed. This should allow you to do a pressure check without having to reinstall the drive.
 
There is a spring loaded check valve that should seal shut with the drive removed. This should allow you to do a pressure check without having to reinstall the drive.
Thanks for mentioning that. I thought the only spring loaded check valve was on the bell housing. Sure enough, just checked and there's one on the drive. Nice to know I won't have to wait till Spring to do that pressure test.
BTW, used some brute force and got the back cover off. Corrosion held the stainless bolts in pretty good. Cleaned them up so next time they will come out easier. All looks dry, so the shift shaft bushing is good.
 
Hi Danny,
Can you clarify your answer, I have the same exact question. When you say you can see the timing marks from the front, what "front" do you mean? I'm trying to understand which cover(s) need to come off to remove and install the driveshaft yoke.
 
Hi Danny,
Can you clarify your answer, I have the same exact question. When you say you can see the timing marks from the front, what "front" do you mean? I'm trying to understand which cover(s) need to come off to remove and install the driveshaft yoke.
This thread may shed some light. I'm pretty sure you may need to remove the top cover, because once you insert the yoke there is no way to tell if the timing marks are still lined up.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums...timing-marks-still-cant-get-set-up-right.html
 
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Cone clutch ? I thought the B-3 has dog clutches.
Nope. No covers need to come off to remove the shaft, it's held in with that big nut with all the slots on it. No need to be concerned about timing marks when installing it.
 
So I assume timing marks are only if you mess with the shift mechanism.
Sounds like you just need a spanner wrench for the spanner nut you refer to which you can find cheap on ebay $30, and the precision torque gauge for setting the rolling torque is about $150.
 
Once the yoke is out you could screw up the timing if you moved the gears. So do not disturb
 

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