Restore of 1986 Sorrento 19' bowrider

[jroach]

Our boat hasn't been used in a few years. All original: OMC v6, bowrider, less than 200hrs.
It has been stored inside or covered all of its life but the seats/benches are ripped at some of the seams, upholstery is discolored and the carpet is showing some wear.

I was thinking of doing a restoration project: remove the interior, replace the carpeting, and send the rest out to be reupholstered. What I'm concerned about it is more of the infrastructure of the boat: stringers, an aging OMC outdrive (serviced every year except the last few as we haven't used it).

I understand the financials (ie: cheaper to restore than to buy new). The boat has served us well over the last 30+ years but I'm concerned I'm putting lipstick on a pig. Example, will I need to replace the OMC ($3-5k) because of parts issues?

I know .... a broad topic but before I even tear into it I thought I would look for practical from those that have done this on a similar boat (sport boat, Seville or Sorrento, etc).

Thanks in advance.

 

[BillK2632]

I am not terribly knowledgeable of that era SeaRays, so my comments are regarding old boats in general.

I would think the main reason for taking on a project like this is 1. you like the boat and 2. you enjoy doing this sort of thing. If that is not the case and you really just want a nice 20ft bowrider you might be better off looking at replacing it with a newer (not new) 18-20ft browrider. A late 90's early 2000's model can be had for around $10k. I would not be looking at doing the restore because it is cheap - it rarely works out that way.

If you get into any real engine / drive work on your restore, you could quickly be in that much and still have an old boat that needs new seats and carpet and well looks like an old boat! OTOH assuming there is no structural issues (rotten transom, stringers, decking) and the engine and outdrive are still serviceable and you are handy at doing a lot of this yourself, you can have a nice restore for a reasonable amount of $$ and some DIY work. A GM 4.3 can last indefinitely if serviced, and though they are old and parts are getting harder to find, the OMC Cobra is a good drive AND if needed you can replace it pretty easily with a Merc Alpha (or SEI).

Now, if you have any of the below, I would abandon the whole idea, at least if $$ is a consideration.

1. Rot anywhere.
2. Engine problems that might dictate a rebuild or replacement. It's an old boat, so some repairs should be expected - things wear out.
2. OMC stringer drive - if it has this (I don't think it did), then just stop and go get a different boat.

 

[jroach]

Thanks BillK2632!

Your points at the end are exaclty what I'm looking for.

One reason I'm looking to restore is that I am retired and have the time. A new boat (in my mind) would likely be (I know I will catch some heat for this on the forum) a CC Launch so the numbers are in my favor for a restore. Although I might be looking for subliminal reason to buy the Launch but we will leave that for my therapist.

As I understand it (and this might be 30 year old sales hype) that the Sorrento was different. While I can't confirm it when I took a tour of the factory when my boat was being built I recall a few things: They did not use chopped fiberglass and that areas or the entire hull was kevlar.

The lines of the boat are still relevant to me; curved windshield, railings are mounted to last, teak trim, solid wiring/looms, all pretty current. Gages are a bit dated.

I'm not certain where to look for the rot ie:should I remove the cover over the fuel tank or is there a known place to look on these models/year or boats in general?

I like your point about the motor as it is just a GM 4.3. I believe it is a 4.3 L4 OMC Cobra (205 HP).

 

[BillK2632]

Places to look for rot, again in general - maybe someone if specific knowledge of the Sorrento will chime in:

Transom.
Stringers.
Deck / Flooring.

Pretty sure the hull on those boats was solid fiberglass, except the strings and transom. You would need to drill some small holes, on the inside but not all the way through the transom and in a couple of places along the stringers - and check for wet wood coring. Obvious places where a transom gets wet is improperly installed transducers and the seal around the outdrive cutout. If the wood comes out on the drill bit dry, plug the holes up with epoxy. The decking would be obvious, you would notice some soft spots in the floor. The good news is you have owned it since new and it has been stored inside out of the water. It's very possible, even likely there is no rot anywhere. But I would check and be sure before I started on this project.

 

[WV 320 Dancer]

The cost of the resto will be more than the boat will be worth so it is going boil down to your sentimental value. If I had the funds and loved the boat then the money would not be the reason to not do it if it were me. Could give that same argument about hobby cars (got one) and boats, on number 7.

 

[GypsmJim]

Indoor stored and covered is a good thing, but if the boat was put away wet it'll be rotten just the same. If stored in a freezing climate, the rot will be twice as bad and occur twice as fast.

A Marine Surveyor would have the equipment to do a non-destructive test and verify if the boat was rotten or not.

My buddy had an estimate to repair some rot, but when the mechanic started the work, the problem ended up much worse and the cost soared. Even though it was repaired by a "professional", it rotted again a few years later. As other issues cropped up he ended up selling it for about half of what the repairs cost.

Even though a restoration might cost only a fraction of a new boat, be prepared to spend more time in the shop than on the water. I say that as a restorer of antiques. Its a labor of love for sure, but on a nice sunny Sunday afternoon its our new boat that gets taken out for a ride.

 

[jroach]

To all.... Great advice! I'll pull back some of the surface parts and poke around. If I don't find anything I'll do the drill test per BillK's advice. Based on the input above I'll put a target budget of $4k for everything. If it looks to be higher then I'll go back to the family and let them know we might have to put her down. Seems like once you name them it's harder to get rid of.

 

[BillK2632]

Keep us updated - we like pictures. I personally like the classic look of the older SeaRays.

 

[jroach]

I did my first bit of poking around and here is what I found:

- Hatch over fuel tank and engine cover were OK.
- Transom appeared OK but will need to get some other items out of the way before checking this off the list
- Mid section damage to a stringer (1" diameter was soft and could poke my finger into it)
- Aft section, same stringer as above (several inches across the top)

Rot was located near the top of the stringer, maybe just a few inches down from the floor.
I've attached a couple of pics.

Is it over at this point or is this something that can be remedied with a youtube video?

(First pic is a close up of the second pic.)

 

[GypsmJim]

That's what my buddy had. No problem. $600 repair quote. In the end the mechanic found more, and he had to pull the engine and the final bill was $3900.

Boats rot from the bottom up. Thus, it gets worse as you go down.

I'm sorry to be a naysayer. If that boat was my Dad's that he bought in 1939, I would spare no expense to keep it in the family. Your decision.

 

[jroach]

GypsmJim,

I really think the rot is at the top only. To make certain I'll go out and deploy BillK's trick with drilling a few holes in the area.

We are skiers and so when the boat is in use it's people getting in/out all day long. The boat is pretty drenched by the end of a trip. The stringers are exposed at the top, no cap or real protection from water seeping between the joints of the floor where the floor is removable.

I'm going back out to probe a bit more based on your input and report back.

 

[jroach]

Reporting back.

GypsmJim,

I drilled a few holes, about 2" apart going from the top down. The wood that came out was wet or...there was no resistance once I made it past the skin. The starboard stringer seems fine.

Now my dilemma is to either to button it up and sell as-is or push forward and remove the floor on that side. Looking at a few videos it appears that the floor is one piece and maybe requires the parts that support the dash to be removed. If that is the case then I think I just reached EOJ.

 

[MonacoMike]

I understand the financials (ie: cheaper to restore than to buy new). The boat has served us well over the last 30+ years but I'm concerned I'm putting lipstick on a pig. Example, will I need to replace the OMC ($3-5k) because of parts issues?

In the used boat world you can get a decent older boat for less than refurbishing a boat with major issues. Not sure I understand the point here?

MM

 

[GypsmJim]

Reporting back.

GypsmJim,

I drilled a few holes, about 2" apart going from the top down. The wood that came out was wet or...there was no resistance once I made it past the skin. The starboard stringer seems fine.

Now my dilemma is to either to button it up and sell as-is or push forward and remove the floor on that side. Looking at a few videos it appears that the floor is one piece and maybe requires the parts that support the dash to be removed. If that is the case then I think I just reached EOJ.

Rotten boats are a cancer of sorts. Once you cut out one tumor, more are surely to develop because they were hiding in the shade.

Taking out half of the floor is futile. The other half will need it a year later. If you intend to make repairs, gut the entire hull and do the whole thing. Just be prepared for more work in the future.

 

[jroach]

Jim, understood. I have decided to take it down to a place here in Los Angeles that specializes in hull repair and have them give us a quote. They have done some pretty cool boat repairs on real classics so I'm hoping they can make it right.

One concern I have though is regarding your point "Just be prepared for more work in the future"... was that if I only do half or was that a general comment about rot? Do you think if this is professionally repaired with a "BETTER than new" design that I'll get to MTD? There are a few design/manufacturing issues with my boat ie: open stingers at the top, not well glassed or sealed, etc. that can be remedied.

Mike, I understand your point but I'm the type of person that gets depressed when food from the fridge gets thrown out because we either over bought or too lazy to cook it before it went bad The Sorrento is far from that 1950 Chris Craft Sportsman...but not certain it needs to be thrown away yet. Even if costs a little more.

 

[GypsmJim]

Jim, understood. "Just be prepared for more work in the future"... was that if I only do half or was that a general comment about rot? Do you think if this is professionally repaired with a "BETTER than new" design that I'll get to MTD? There are a few design/manufacturing issues with my boat ie: open stingers at the top, not well glassed or sealed, etc. that can be remedied.

.

Once again, I hate to be a naysayer, but with 50 years of boat ownership behind me I try to be a realist.

Your boat is 30 years old. Not many of them left. An OMC stringer drive would be the deal breaker for anyone looking for a used boat. Parts have been discontinued for 25 years or so, and that's not even the worst problem. Just try to find a mechanic that still knows how to work on them.

As I previously said, my buddy's boat was redone by a so-called professional, and several years later the floor and stringers in one place rotted out again.

My old classic car is a 35 year old full frame Big V8 land Yacht. It had been my towcar for 34 years. She's truly a virgin - never seen Winter and she never even is driven in the rain.....LOL. Garage kept and even covered in the garage. This past year plastic body parts have started to crack and fall off and even the chrome plating on some interior trip is flaking off. My point is she is costing me more to keep it running that its worth. regardless, I bought her brand new and I'll continue throwing money at her even though I only drive her 100 miles a year.

Regrettably, last Summer we sold our 34 year old boat and upgraded to a 2019 SeaRay. The main reason was to reduce maintenance costs and avoid future issues. We retired last year and not being able to go boating at a moments notice is not acceptable.

Just my personal thoughts. If money is not an issue, go for it. Good luck on your project.

 

[jroach]

Jim, thanks. We don't have the stinger but its the Cobra. I remember the stinger...if you let anybody else drive the boat that didn't know to make certain the out drive was down before putting it in gear...oh well.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[BillK2632]

Well, was hoping you would not find anything, but you needed to know. I am guessing the stringers were coated with resin, but leaving the top end grain open like that, the problems started the first day the boat was used and the carpet got wet. I am surprised SeaRay did that, but I think that was the common MO in small boat building of that era. I think you are on the right track in getting it looked at and get an estimate of just how much work is there to make it right. Afraid you are also looking at removing the engine to get any real repairs done. When it is all done you will likely need the stringers replaced and a lot of the decking. That sounds like a lot, and to some extent it is, but you said you are retired and have time - if you also have some basic carpentry skills and can do fiberglass work, it's still a DIY project. The other option is to do nothing and sell the boat or just use it -- it's not falling apart, it's got some rot in the stringers like a lot of other boats that age.

There was a guy with a YouTube channel - Friscoboater - he bought a 1995 220 Bowrider thinking it was pristine. Found out it had rot all over, he documented all his repairs on YouTube. He did a really good job and the boat turned out great -- it's worth a watch will give you an idea of what you might be getting into.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=friscoboater

 

[Lazy Daze]

Reading through this thread, there are lot's of good points made - on both sides of the coin. The trouble is that this is not a black and white issue; compounding the dilemma is that emotions are involved. I can certainly understand your reasoning for keeping it, but sometimes you need to know when to throw in the towel, too. In the end, only you can make that call.

To give you an idea of what you might be looking at, here is the Grady that's in my signature. I bought this boat knowing it had two soft spots in the floor - each no bigger than 1' square. But I also knew that the damaged area is ALWAYS much bigger than what it appears. The boat was exactly what I wanted (had some rare features) and I knew what I was getting myself into (and paid an appropriate amount for it). This would be my winter project. This is not an inexpensive job if you have to pay someone to do it. More was done than what is shown in this picture, but this gives you an idea. You may be looking at a project similar to this... maybe less... maybe more. None of us can tell you exactly what you're up against. All I can tell you is that it will be more than you are expecting - it would be extremely rare if it wasn't.

Click to make it bigger

 

[jroach]

BillK,
Many thanks for the encouragement and advice. I browsed through the VLOGs for Friscoeboater. While I think I'm handy this looks pretty intimidating. If I look at the big steps:

Remove anything bolted down
Remove anything glued down
Rip out the floor
Rip out the stringers
Cut/fit new stringers
Resin and glass
Replace floor
Glue down carpet

I have a workshop full of tools and a few of them I know how to use (smile). As kids we use to do our own surfboard repair and I don't think the resin/glass part has changed much over the years (just better gloves). Taking the engine out would be straight forward and I might want to do that to make certain the transom is OK. While the engine is out it might make sense to look at lower-end and also the outdrive. Hmmm...as I write this I can see the snowball turning into an avalanche.

I'm going to charge up the battery, make certain it starts then plot a course.

Lazy Daze,

Thanks for your input and agree, it will be more. I've raised my budget to 10k as I think I'll want to look at the engine/outdrive in the process.

I couldn't tell...did you do the work yourself? Thanks