Rub Rail recaulk product.

Harmon

Member
Jun 28, 2011
363
Jackson NJ/Beach Haven LBI
Boat Info
Current: 2006 320DA as of 6/7/19
Previous 1997 Sundancer 250
1989 Basstracker 40HP
Engines
Twin 350 Horizon with Vdrives

Single 7.4 Ltr carbed
Bravo 3 outdrive
What is to be used for a rub rail recaulk? Any suggestions
 
If you're referring to recaulking without removing it, it is not caulked like that. No need to do anything - and even if you did, it wouldn't be very helpful nor last very long.

If you're removing it completely, then any number of sealant products can be used. LifeSeal, for example. NOT 3M 4200 or 5200. Unless you want to do the deck to hull joint - then you could use 5200 there (or something else).
 
What is to be used for a rub rail recaulk? Any suggestions
If you are referring to the thin bead of caulk on the top edge of the rubrail, I used 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant that was recommended by West Marine. Just be sure to cut as small a bead as possible to control excess caulk and subsequent cleanup :) I think it has been discussed somewhere on CSR to NOT caulk the underside of the rubrail.
 
If you are referring to the thin bead of caulk on the top edge of the rubrail, I used 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant that was recommended by West Marine. Just be sure to cut as small a bead as possible to control excess caulk and subsequent cleanup :) I think it has been discussed somewhere on CSR to NOT caulk the underside of the rubrail.
OK, I’ll bite on the obvious question, why shouldn’t you caulk the underside….seems like we can all get a lot of water behind the rubrail from the bottom, too!
 
OK, I’ll bite on the obvious question, why shouldn’t you caulk the underside….seems like we can all get a lot of water behind the rubrail from the bottom, too!
So it can drain. Somewhere I did a series of posts on re-sealing the deck to hull joint on my 52DB including reinstalling and caulking the rubrail. The top of the rubrail was sealed using Sikaflex 295UV and bottom left unsealed. I thought about sealing the aft parts of the rubrail underside as water is constantly splashed there underway but then where is it going to go? The folks that did mine said they never caulk the underside as completely sealing the rubrail is impossible; it needs to drain. They did a lot of prep including a primer on the surfaces before applying the caulking.
 
OK, I’ll bite on the obvious question, why shouldn’t you caulk the underside….seems like we can all get a lot of water behind the rubrail from the bottom, too!
Like TT said, it's for drainage. The tiny little bead of sealant along the top is not very good and doesn't last long. This is why it's not even sealed from the factory - although it appears sometimes it is done. I see a lot of Sea Rays in my line of work, though, and much more often than not, the top is not sealed from the factory.

The reason the top doesn't have to be sealed is because it has nothing to do with preventing water from entering the boat. It won't "hurt" to seal the top - the idea being it would keep a little bit of dirt from getting behind there and then causing "mascara runs" when it drips out. Although, in my experience, it really doesn't make much of a difference. In my opinion, the upkeep with the frequent removal of the old top sealant and then replacing just isn't worth it. The time it takes to do that is much greater than the possible time it takes to wipe off a few runs.
 
Makes sense, always a good idea to listers to a ‘real’ professional. Thanks @ttmott and @Lazy Daze for your great directions…
 
I was at the marina yesterday and removed 90% of the silicone,from the bottom of Rub rail. It looks like top is unsealed, but im going to look closer. Very interesting indeed. thanks all
 

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