Shift Actuator Fault

[mccardillo]

Lost starboard engine control after "shift actuator" fault alarm. When I hit the "throttle only" button, engine throttles properly. But, I cannot put the boat into forward or reverse gear. Is this a common/easy fix? Can you disconnect the actuator to run the engine without that control? Thanks.

 

[Espos4]

If the DTS shift actuator isn’t moving at all, look for any obstructions and loose hardware.

You could try swapping actuators from one motor to the other.

Also check the neutral switch for proper operation. That’s the 2 wire switch up against the shift arm.

I had a problem with the neutral switch 2 seasons ago. Here’s some info on that.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/350-mag-dts-no-power-problem-and-resolution.85668/

 

[mccardillo]

Espos4 - Thank you for your response. I read your link. Mechanical/electrical concerns are above my pay grade. But it does seem like your situation is very similar (if not exact) to mine. Will help when I make that 8 a.m. call to the dealer on Monday.

 

[Espos4]

Espos4 - Thank you for your response. I read your link. Mechanical/electrical concerns are above my pay grade. But it does seem like your situation is very similar (if not exact) to mine. Will help when I make that 8 a.m. call to the dealer on Monday.

You’re welcome and welcome to CSR.

There are lots of good people here and this is a great resource for info.

Please be sure to post the resolution to this, as it may help someone in the future.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Really love all this new "modern" electronic equipment that just fails. A shame the dealers not tell you about it before the sale .
Check all harness plugs from engine to DTS controller,
Can you revert to mechanical controls?

 

[Bt Doctur]

https://samerwebapp01apncus01.azure..._remote_control_installation_instructions.pdf

 

[mccardillo]

Really love all this new "modern" electronic equipment that just fails. A shame the dealers not tell you about it before the sale .
Check all harness plugs from engine to DTS controller,
Can you revert to mechanical controls?

You’re welcome and welcome to CSR.

There are lots of good people here and this is a great resource for info.

Please be sure to post the resolution to this, as it may help someone in the future.

Went down to the boat upon your previous post. Neutral light was not lit when I turned both keys on. Then I checked the movement of both actuators. Port side was working. Starboard was not. Then, after engaging throttles, the neutral light on the inoperable engine lit up. I also disconnected the actuator in hopes that would reset operations. It did not. So, we are back to either the neutral pin, or needing a new actuator. More to follow....

Thanks again.

 

[Espos4]

That neutral switch is easily tested. It’s a simple open/closed switch.

You should have continuity across the switch terminals with the pin pushed in (neutral position) and an open circuit with the pin popped out, (shift arm moved to forward or reverse)

 

[Espos4]

Went down to the boat upon your previous post. Neutral light was not lit when I turned both keys on. Then I checked the movement of both actuators. Port side was working. Starboard was not. Then, after engaging throttles, the neutral light on the inoperable engine lit up. I also disconnected the actuator in hopes that would reset operations. It did not. So, we are back to either the neutral pin, or needing a new actuator. More to follow....

Thanks again.

A failed neutral switch could be the culprit here.

 

[mccardillo]

Update - Shift actuator bad. Mercruiser advised dealer there is no way to independently test the actuator, so they took it off, and replaced it with an actuator from another boat on the lot. Throttle worked fine. Unfortunately, part is on back order and not available till next week. But, who knows how long it will actually be.

Actuator part is $720.

My Sea Ray dealer is one of the largest in my state. Was told this was the first time a shift actuator has blown out. Just my luck!

At least I got great guidance from members of this board!

 

[Capt Bob]

What error were you getting? I have a shift error code that pops up, invokes Guardian mode, and drops power. Drop to idle, error goes away, (is not stored in memory) throttle up, and all is well until next time. Just curious, as mine is an "11 300 SLX. Being such an intermittent problem, it is difficult to pinpoint. Mercruiser has advised us (well, the Tech anyway) to check the actuator, cables (?) and linkage. What part of the world are you in?

 

[Espos4]

What error were you getting? I have a shift error code that pops up, invokes Guardian mode, and drops power. Drop to idle, error goes away, (is not stored in memory) throttle up, and all is well until next time. Just curious, as mine is an "11 300 SLX. Being such an intermittent problem, it is difficult to pinpoint. Mercruiser has advised us (well, the Tech anyway) to check the actuator, cables (?) and linkage. What part of the world are you in?

Capt Bob, your symptoms are a little more similar to what I experienced 2 seasons ago.

Here’s a link for you, maybe it’ll help.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/350-mag-dts-no-power-problem-and-resolution.85668/

 

[Capt Bob]

I saw that from earlier in the thread, I will check it out tomorrow, maybe swap from port/starboard and see if I can get it to follow it.

 

[mccardillo]

I saw that from earlier in the thread, I will check it out tomorrow, maybe swap from port/starboard and see if I can get it to follow it.

I would definitely focus on Espos4's thread. Mine was definitely a mechanical issue, which you could see by lifting the hatch and monitoring the actuator movement from both engines. I thought it would be more complicated than it was, as I am not too mechanically inclined. But, it is a rather obvious operation if you just spend 2 minutes.

My fault was "Shift Actuator" fault. The error message does go away, but the better move is to hit the left side button on the smart craft device, which shows more detail. When I did that, it indicated to return to port immediately.

I am fairly confident the dealer would have taken longer to diagnose if not for the assistance from this board. Like I wrote, this was the first time my very large dealership service team encountered the problem. Fix was VERY easy.

 

[Capt Bob]

Unfortunately it is not the neutral switch. Swapped from port to starboard with no change. We were able to sea trial with a Data logger attached. The technician was able to see the failure while a data logger was recording. The code came up, we throttled to neutral, and the code cleared, not saved in history, as if it wasn't there. Scrolling through the data log file at the time of the code, he saw that Guardian was enabled as a result of an excessive cat converter temp sensor. We could see a spike in temp that would enable Guardian. We do have higher water pressure on the Port engine (problem child) than the Starboard. Higher pressure should indicate a blockage (old vane from impeller?) downstream from the water pump. The next place to catch a vane is the power steering cooler. Before we went into that, we found a corroded thermostat housing. (There are also some poppet valves in that area that were questionable, they bypass the thermostat to keep water flow through the cats) Cat temp sensors seems to be functioning, and we are repairing the water problem, thermostat housing, valves, back flush through the power steering cooler, before attacking the temp sensor or anything else. These thing all have to be fixed anyway, and nothing will work properly without a proper baseline.

 

[scoflaw]

Would never own a Cat engine, too many expensive problems that occur often. I like a KISS engine myself

 

[Capt Bob]

Would never own a Cat engine, too many expensive problems that occur often. I like a KISS engine myself

That is such ever helpful insight. I'm not sure what it has to do with anything here, other than to acknowledge your much superior views on the ways of boating today. (boosts the post count too!) I realize there is a segment of people that wish to keep to the KISS way of life, be it boats, cars, houses, TV's, phones, and assorted other equipment. There is arguments for either view. Both sides (as in many things) could learn from the other if only they would keep their mouth shut, and observe. Technology is an amazing thing, it is only complex when you don't understand it.

I will take my own advice and try to learn from your such helpful insight. Not sure how, with the exception that all here now know you will not be blessed with a less than 10 year old (depending on if Calif or not) commercially manufactured gasoline powered boat.

Unfortunately, unlike the steam powered computer I assume you are posting on, and the mule wagon you drove into work, (or maybe a mule powered covered RV wagon if retired ) technology marches on. Or do you simply choose which technology to embrace, and which to call a load of ca-ca, that you would never invite into your pristine life?

When the robots take over the world, be the guy that fixes the robots.

 

[scoflaw]

I understand your anger and frustration, if my boat doesn't run flawlessly every day, I'd be pissed off also.
You obviously don't get around in the world of boating much or you would realize these Cat motors are fraught with expensive problems like the one you are experiencing.

Your best line was " Technology is an amazing thing, it is only complex when you don't understand it" So I guess the "you" in that sentence is you and the other guy throwing parts at it hoping for a boat ride in the near future.

Got a good laugh at the insults you directed at me too. Your gonna need thicker skin and deep pockets with your Cat

 

[Capt Bob]

You may be on point with the frustration of a non running boat. However, in my mere minutes of boat ownership I realize that boats break. It's simply one of those things that is a part of any man made object. But on the other hand, there is some satisfaction in troubleshooting and solving a difficult problem. One of those "job well done" things.

Glad you got a snicker of my comments, good to hear you have a sense of humor.

I have detailed what our diagnostic and testing finds have been. It is kind of a be helpful thing. Others will have problems also, and I wish to give back. I've gathered useful info from these forums and I'd like the opportunity to return the favor. There are some people may or may not find my post helpful, yours.. well not so much.

You are correct, any repair on any mechanical/electronic thing is expensive if you simply fire the parts cannon at it, that's where being a Technician or having an open mind to new procedures /testing is a bonus. A sensor sending a code is not always the sensor. It may be doing what it is designed to do and there is an underlying cause. Currently we are at a couple boat bills (small bills, not the big ones) for t stat housings and parts. You can still hope that all cats have melted down, sensors and all, and then somehow went ahead and destroyed the transfer case, seat memory and GPS system on my truck at the same time just for spite. Either way, I will report back what the final repair was and with a little luck you will be vindicated.

I will not derail this thread any further. Feel free to fire at will.

 

[scoflaw]

My point was, if your state EPA doesn't mandate that your boat has to have the Cats, seek an alternative choice.

Many boaters with them are in your situation. Seems like most failures are when the Cats/o2 sensor get wet.