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Strip the Wax Off?

Discussion in 'Fiberglass/Wood/Gelcoat Repair' started by brewster16, Nov 21, 2020.

  1. brewster16

    brewster16 Active Member

    626
    Aug 9, 2009
    Long Beach Island, N.J.
    '07 44 Sundancer
    Twin Cummins QSC 8.3
    First time attempting to do gel goat restoration on my 23' center console. Is it accurate that wax needs to be stripped off prior to use of rotary compounding? If so, best method to remove wax is Dawn dishwashing soap in hot water? I tried compounding a small area without doing any stripping, just a wash with my usual Orpine and the area (multiple passes) is kind of shmeared and kind of greasy although free of oxidation. Any guidance?
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2020
  2. paulswagelock

    paulswagelock Well-Known Member

    Oct 25, 2010
    pa
    2018 SDX 270 OB 300 Verado
    Verado 300
    Ideally you would use a concentrated IPA to clean off wax, but dawn in hot water will suffice.
    What product and pad are you buffing with? Generally you run your machine until there is little to no trace of compound left, then wipe it clean.
     
    Almightys likes this.
  3. Stee6043

    Stee6043 Well-Known Member

    Jun 1, 2015
    West Michigan
    1997 Sundancer 400
    7.4L Gassers
    My life was changed 2 years ago when I was introduced to vinegar. It'll take off water spots, wax, stains, nearly everything. Everything except the hardcore scum line that needs some stronger acid.

    I mix this stuff below pretty hot and it's been amazing. And cheap. Get a couple good spray bottles, spray on, wipe, spray water, wipe, be done. Welcome to the revolution :)

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VVMTM14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
  4. mdolesh

    mdolesh Member

    59
    Dec 18, 2019
    Annapolis, MD
    2006 290DA
    Twin 5.0 MPI
    Bravo I Drives
    Kohler 5ECD p.o.s.
    Very interested in this also. Do you recommend stripping the wax off each season before compounding and waxing? Our hull had heavy oxidation when we bought her last year but I compounded and waxed and she looked great to start the season. Now at the end its coming back a little but not nearly as bad. Wondering what my approach should be for year two. Thanks!
     
  5. dvx216

    dvx216 Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Feb 1, 2012
    Catawaba Island,Oh.
    2000 310 sundancer 5.7
    optional electronic package






















    n/a
    twin 5.7 300 Hp.
    Don't know why you think you have to strip the old wax off. If your hull is badly oxidized it might need wet sanded then compounded then waxed. After a season in the sun the wax is almost used up.
     
  6. paulswagelock

    paulswagelock Well-Known Member

    Oct 25, 2010
    pa
    2018 SDX 270 OB 300 Verado
    Verado 300
    Not needed really. You should lightly compound the entire boat for year 2, and go at those returning spots with aggressive compound again this year.
     
  7. mdolesh

    mdolesh Member

    59
    Dec 18, 2019
    Annapolis, MD
    2006 290DA
    Twin 5.0 MPI
    Bravo I Drives
    Kohler 5ECD p.o.s.
    Thanks guys! One less step for today!
     
  8. JVM225

    JVM225 Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 8, 2008
    Farmingdale, NY
    2002 410 Sundancer, Monaco Edition.
    3126 Cats.
    If you only use Carnauba wax once a season there is a good chance that there isn’t much, if any, wax remaining on the surface.
    You could wipe the hull down with a light spray of alcohol before compounding or polishing if you want, but the compound and rotary machine will remove whatever remnants might be there from last year anyway.
     
  9. brewster16

    brewster16 Active Member

    626
    Aug 9, 2009
    Long Beach Island, N.J.
    '07 44 Sundancer
    Twin Cummins QSC 8.3
    Just wanted to give a follow up report for those interested....there is definitely a learning curve to this process. I found:

    1. Yes, a wash down of Dawn dishwashing detergent in a bucket of warm water took off the slickness/ waxy surface on my colored hull allowing oxidation cutter and then polish to do a better job.
    3. Using a little bit of moisture in a microfiber cloth lifted off the cutter/polish residue really much better than a simple dry microfiber cloth, leaving a gleaming clean surface.
    3. Multiple passes of cutter and/or polish with the machine may be required to eliminate all oxidation and haze.
    4. Focusing on a small 2x2 area at a time rather than a huge area provided a much better overall result.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2020
  10. fwebster

    fwebster Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 6, 2006
    Middle Tennessee ; Panama City Beach, FL
    1996 450DA
    3116 Caterpillars
    I think how to remove a wax/polish residue depends largely on what it is your are trying to remove and whetthere or not you waxed over oxidized gelcoat previously. It is just a waste of time to wax over an oxidized area.

    The universal stripper here on the Gulf Coast is ammonia. I haven't seen anything it won't cut except perhaps a few of the newer polymer finishes, and then it just takes a couple of ammonia washes.
     
  11. brewster16

    brewster16 Active Member

    626
    Aug 9, 2009
    Long Beach Island, N.J.
    '07 44 Sundancer
    Twin Cummins QSC 8.3
    Yes, agree about waxing over oxidation. But in my case using Orpine wash throughout the season most certainly creates a wax overlay by nature of that superior boat wash product. And I believe that was what was confounding my initial cutter application. My opinion...Strip the surface then begin the polishing. Something to consider for those considering this project.
     

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