Sump Pump wiring

C

CJM62

New Member
Jul 12, 2015
4
California
Boat Info
1998 37 Aft Cabin
Engines
Merc cruiser
Have a 98 37 Aft Cabin put in a new rule 98a sump box old ones wires were a bit different I have a hot a ground and 1 brown with a stripe the pump has a loop not sure how the wiring should go
 
There are a few posts on this but the original configuration has three wires: hot, ground and indicator lamp. However, the wiring gets a bit more complex since the float switch starts the pump and also turns on the indicator lamp. The easy way to think about it is the power is on one side of the float switch and the indicator wire and pump power wire are on the other. When the switch closes, the indicator lamp and the pump get power.

This is where it can get tricky.....some replacement sumps don't use float switches. The float switch is integral to tripping the indicator light in the original configuration. If you post the new sump's model number....that will give us the clues to solve the issue. Sumps without a float switch use an internal flow switch. In this configuration, the pump comes on every 2 minutes or so for 5 seconds. If it senses water it stays on until the pump runs out of water and then it stops and the 2 minute cycle begins again. Most of these non-float pumps do not have a provision for an indicator wire.

John
 
Last edited:
PlayDate said:
There are a few posts on this but the original configuration has three wires: hot, ground and indicator lamp. However, the wiring gets a bit more complex since the float switch starts the pump and also turns on the indicator lamp. The easy way to think about it is the power is on one side of the float switch and the indicator wire and pump power wire are on the other. When the switch closes, the indicator lamp and the pump get power.

This is where it can get tricky.....some replacement sumps don't use float switches. The float switch is integral to tripping the indicator light in the original configuration. If you post the new sump's model number....that will give us the clues to solve the issue. Sumps without a float switch use an internal flow switch. In this configuration, the pump comes on every 2 minutes or so for 5 seconds. If it senses water it stays on until the pump runs out of water and then it stops and the 2 minute cycle begins again. Most of these non-float pumps do not have a provision for an indicator wire.

John
Click to expand...
Thanks John
It is the 12 volt Rule 98a
 
Chris,

The only issue is connecting the indicator lamp wire.

Basic wiring connects the Sea Ray Brown Red Wire to the Brown wire on the new sump. Black goes to Black on the new sump. At this point, the sump will run if you lift the float but you will have no indicator light.

To connect the indicator lamp you need to look at the two gray wires connecting the float switch. One of them connects to the Brown wire which you connected to the Brown/Red Sea Ray wire. The other connects to the pump itself. That is the one you need to splice into for the indicator lamp. The easiest way to think about it is when the float closes it connects power to the pump and the indicator lamp.

Depending on the connectors, some are easier to splice into than others. Let me know if you have any questions.

John
 
Last edited:
PlayDate said:
Chris,

The only issue is connecting the indicator lamp wire.

Basic wiring connects the Sea Ray Brown Red Wire to the Brown wire on the new sump. Black goes to Black on the new sump. At this point, the sump will run if you lift the float but you will have no indicator light.

To connect the indicator lamp you need to look at the two gray wires connecting the float switch. One of them connects to the Brown wire which you connected to the Brown/Red Sea Ray wire. The other connects to the pump itself. That is the one you need to splice into for the indicator lamp. The easiest way to think about it is when the float closes it connects power to the pump and the indicator lamp.

Depending on the connectors, some are easier to splice into than others. Let me know if you have any questions.

John
Click to expand...
Thanks John
I won't be back at the boat until the 21st but I think I can figure it out with your info if not I will get back to you
thanks Chris
 
I know this is an older post but I think it contains some of the information I am looking for. During a survey, the surveyor noted that the sump bilge pump had been replaced using wire nuts. He advised me to use butt connectors/shrink wrap. While I was doing that, I noticed a brown and grey wire that were not connected to anything. I was unable to determine how to connect the two of them. The pump works when the float is lifted. I am pretty sure it is the indicator light but am a bit anxious to tap into a wire until I am sure which wire goes where.

I am unable to locate a wiring schematic for this boat, a 1994 330 Express Cruiser. Thanks.
IMG_2854 (1).JPG
.
 
I'm not having much luck finding a wiring diagram for your boat. It looks like you are working on the shower sump. The indicator light on the monitor panel usually uses a 18-22 gauge wire which connects in between the float switch and the pump.

The float switch rises until its contacts meet. The circuit then sends 12 volts to the pump (and the indicator panel) until the float switch drops and the circuit is broken.

Unless another member has a diagram.....I will take a look at my sump when I am back at the boat in a few days. Since we have the same year...I expect the wiring to be the same.

Alternatively, you could trace the brown wire back with a tone tester. I'm concerned about sending 12 volts back down that brown wire until we find out where it is going.
 
I really appreciate your help. Electronics is definitely not a strong area for me.
 
streetglider said:
I know this is an older post but I think it contains some of the information I am looking for. During a survey, the surveyor noted that the sump bilge pump had been replaced using wire nuts. He advised me to use butt connectors/shrink wrap. While I was doing that, I noticed a brown and grey wire that were not connected to anything. I was unable to determine how to connect the two of them. The pump works when the float is lifted. I am pretty sure it is the indicator light but am a bit anxious to tap into a wire until I am sure which wire goes where.

I am unable to locate a wiring schematic for this boat, a 1994 330 Express Cruiser. Thanks.View attachment 50996 .
Click to expand...
I hope there are not wire nuts on this circuit!! All should be heat shrink crimps!
 
There were but I am removing them. Once I determine what to do with these wires, I will heat shrink crimp them too. Never used a tone tester but I may give it a try.
 
I have a 97 sea rat 37 aft cabin and can’t find the fuse /breaker to the aft shower pump
 
PlayDate said:
This is how mine was wired and the wire colors.
View attachment 51050
Click to expand...
i know this post was made a while ago, but I recently purchased a 200 380 Sea Ray with this exact issue, and found this diagram perfect for correcting the problem (turns out the previous owner had reversed the brown wires causing a continuous Sump Alarm condition) --- So thank you for this!
 
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