Texas Deep Freeze = Cracked...something on 2016 Mercury 4.5L Alpha

[Marcus Matos]

I'm in Dallas and though I got away unscathed after the deep freeze in February. No power outages at home, I was able to keep my pipes thawed and heat on. Well...it turns out I had a big surprise waiting for me when I pulled out my 2017 Sea Ray 19 SPX yesterday...

Even though we don't typically get that kind of crazy weather, I winterized my boat with antifreeze in December (using Mercury's recommended ethylene glycol (EDIT: SORRY, I MEANT PROPELYNE GLYCOL (pink))). Yesterday I went to de-winterize it and it started up just fine. I took it out on the water and within about 45 seconds the engine went in to "limp" / "self protect" mode. I shut it off, opened up the engine bay, and notice a bit of smoke coming off the undersides of the engine, and that my bilge pump was pumping a good amount of water out. My first reaction was to check that I didn't leave the seawater drain open - I had not.

Long story short, when the engine is running, it's pumping water into the bilge. My theory is that the deep freeze in the middle of February caused something to crack. My questions are:

1. I have comprehensive and propulsion plus coverage with Progressive, but reading through the material I'm unsure whether this is a covered event. I'm thinking that since this was a historic storm/state emergency that I should expect some help. Any opinions on this?
2. Anyone here have any experience with this kind of issue on this engine and have thoughts on what to expect? 2016 Mercury 4.5L 200HP Alpha Drive
3. Last year, I installed the RideSteady (Cruise Control) system. While I'm sure this has absolutely nothing to do with anything, would you recommend that I de-install it prior to taking it to a Mercury Dealer/Mechanic? I expect the first step will be to pull the engine out, and I'd like to avoid issues with any claims I might actually be entitled to.

I got a tow back to the marina and the boat is back on the lift until I hear back from Progressive. I'm incredibly stressed out and not sure what to expect - I'm scared that I'm about to be on the hook for a $30K engine repair.

(Side Note: This engine was replaced once about 2 years ago due to a fire shortly after the boat was purchased - a leak in the power steering system caused a pump to seize, leading to a fire in the engine bay.)

 

[RBB]

I maybe wrong but i would think +/- 10k would drop a new one in.

 

[Little Ducky]

Lets make sure you find where the water is coming from before you get too depressed.

Could simply be a hose that has cracked or some type of module that water didn't evacuate properly during your winterization and it met its maker.

New engine 8 - 10K

BTW most insurance companies have a clause in their policy somewhere that says they do not to cover any type of freeze damage.

 

[Stee6043]

Based on some other threads around here I wouldn't spend a lot of time working with Progressive on this issue.

Was the boat running perfectly fine before it went into limp mode? For how long was it running before you left? Was it overheating when that happened?

Best case, as mentioned above, could be a break/leak in your cooling system.

If I were in your shoes I'd be making a bee line back to the marina, have them put the boat in the water, run it and find the leak. It could be quick and easy to see. Could be as simple as a hose...

 

[paulswagelock]

You mention you winterized, describe specifically what you did so we can try to ascertain what could have been missed.
Progressive is unlikely to cover freeze damage since you did the work yourself. If a shop did it, they might entertain going after them.
More likely a plastic collector or joint that ruptured which in itself could be a simple and cheap fix, as long as running it did not overheat it and cause mechanical damage.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I agree - look closer at things before going to far with this. If something is, indeed, cracked, the winterization process must have been flawed. But find out where exactly that water is coming from before worrying too much.

And, yes, insurance companies typically do not cover freeze damage.

Start the engine up in your driveway with the flush attachment and use your phone on a stick or even a mirror on a stick to try and find where it's coming from. You may be able to start the engine up for a minute, then turn it off and simply look for the drips - which would allow you get closer to things without worrying about getting caught in the belt.

 

[Pirate Lady]

BoatUS / Geico has freeze protection, but when i inquired on October 5, i was told it had to be gotten by Oct 1. Day late, dollar short, story of my life.
and if you pay $30K to replace a Mercury 4.5L you are getting ripped off, its just the block (if it is) not the outdrive too.

 

[blaster]

You can replace twin power packages for 30k.

 

[All's Well]

One step at a time - check to see if you can tell where the water is coming from.
Could be a simple issue that you can repair yourself. You at least want to know what you're going to ask a shop to fix if you're going to go that route

 

[BillK2632]

+ 1 on finding what exactly is leaking - it possibly (and likely) is either one of the plastic parts of the quick drain system cracked or a casting plug popped out (people call these freeze plugs, but they really are from the block casting). Other and more expensing possibilities are one of the manifolds and of course the block itself. Also, check the oil - if it looks like coffee (ie water in it) then you have a cracked manifold or worse the block is cracked. I once had a casting plug pop out of my Correct Craft engine, no damage, I popped it back in and ran the motor another 1000hrs.

Don't panic yet, find out where it is leaking!

 

[BEH]

A little over $4000.00 for a short block when I put a piston through it about 10 years ago.
As others have said hopefully split hose or cracked plastic.
Maybe frozen water in a elbow somewhere where the antifreeze didn’t reach.

 

[dwna1a]

Freeze Plug? Split a hose maybe. Just going to have to get in there and get dirty and find the leak

 

[Arminius]

I called Progressive as my policy is with them. I said comprehensive ought to cover it unless it is specifically excluded. They were unable to come up with an exclusion but said it would depend. Your policy is available on-line so you might well read it. I suggest you not try to game the system. Progressive has been good to me, if slow. They were reasonable on interpreting the policy.

 

[LastCall350]

If it's a 4.5 and IF it pushed out freeze plugs, I guarantee it cracked in the sleeves between cylinders and will need a long block. Being this is a full Mercury engine (they designed, and casted that block) it's much different than buying a replacement GM small block. Long block must come from Mercury as they haven't been around long enough for "reman" options and will be in the neighborhood of 10k for the long block. I have personally seen it on the new Merc casted 6.2's and 4.5

 

[Arminius]

Most frequent complaint I've heard is cracked exhaust manifolds as they used to have to be drained separately.
Incidentally, I tried a buddy's trick of sucking up a bucket of antifreeze through the earmuffs. Then I drained it as I am a skeptic. The water out of the block was not green. So much for that trick.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Let us know how it works out.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Most frequent complaint I've heard is cracked exhaust manifolds as they used to have to be drained separately.
Incidentally, I tried a buddy's trick of sucking up a bucket of antifreeze through the earmuffs. Then I drained it as I am a skeptic. The water out of the block was not green. So much for that trick.

sucking up af thru od I never trusted. I remove all drain plugs. Pull off all hoses and leave plugs and hoses off for winter, never cracked block yet. Knock/wood.

 

[GypsmJim]

Sucking up AF thru muffs and a jug is the preferred procedure. HOWEVER, following that you need to also pull out ALL of the blue drain plugs to completely drain the block AND manifolds, etc. IOW, ALL plugs.

If the marina did it for you, sue them and they will pay for repairs. If you did it yourself, you're outta luck.

If you have Progressive you're double outta luck. Best thing is to find the source of the problem and get it fixed. Whether it was winterizing or not, normal mechanical problems are not covered unless a warranty item.

 

[Scott06]

Check the power steering cooler usually located on top of flywheel cover easy to crack it .

 

[Arminius]

Exclusion 10.c. on my Progressive policy is for damage caused by freezing.