The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

THAT is simply awesome.
So, you did all 4 sea strainers saying 4 valves. Do you then attach a bilge wash-down hose after each outing to each valve one at a time, engine running, open, flush, close, disconnect?
 
So, recall my missing bilge vent inserts. Had SS fabricator design and install a SS cover, offset from the opening to allow venting. It is attached with welded clips to the ridge of the opening. I puttied with 5200 adhesive in case any vibration would have them chaffe against the fiberglass, but they are quite secure. Images show the design front & back.
IMG_20220121_171240.jpg
IMG_20220121_154525.jpg
IMG_20220121_154558.jpg
 
So, recall my missing bilge vent inserts. Had SS fabricator design and install a SS cover, offset from the opening to allow venting. It is attached with welded clips to the ridge of the opening. I puttied with 5200 adhesive in case any vibration would have them chaffe against the fiberglass, but they are quite secure. Images show the design front & back.View attachment 119021 View attachment 119022 View attachment 119023
That turned out awesome! I’m glad you found such a talented fabricator. :)
 
So, you did all 4 sea strainers saying 4 valves. Do you then attach a bilge wash-down hose after each outing to each valve one at a time, engine running, open, flush, close, disconnect?

Right now I have the two mains on a tee fitting so there is water at each strainer. I flush the mains by opening at the sea strainer cap valve, then switch to the generator strainer (I use the A/C all the time so flushing doesn't make sense, but the valve in the strainer makes descaling mush easier).

I rinse each engine one at a time using the dock spigot to ensure enough flow. I don't always hook up dock fresh water, so at 12 minutes of rinsing (4 minutes for each main and the gen) using on-board water would drain the tanks pretty quickly.

Eventually, I'll do a manifold for all three engines and put in a hose bib in the transom locker or one of the cockpit lockers, so I don't have to run a hose through the ER hatch (which isn't a big deal). Then I just have to open/close the valves in the ER for each engine.

If I don't have dock water I just wait until I get to a dock to flush, and I don't sweat it if I can't flush for some reason, but feel like if most of the time the engines have fresh instead of salt I am making huge difference.
 
3 T40 Torx bits, 4 drill bits, 2 Easy Outs, and half a can of Kroil and finally, I got my thermostats out! A little corrosion control needed, and my first real supply chain run in as I am waiting on a hose frome Cummins.

20220123_111516.jpg


20220123_111533.jpg


20220123_114802.jpg


20220123_114807.jpg


20220123_114932.jpg


20220123_114853.jpg
 
Right now I have the two mains on a tee fitting so there is water at each strainer. I flush the mains by opening at the sea strainer cap valve, then switch to the generator strainer (I use the A/C all the time so flushing doesn't make sense, but the valve in the strainer makes descaling mush easier).

I rinse each engine one at a time using the dock spigot to ensure enough flow. I don't always hook up dock fresh water, so at 12 minutes of rinsing (4 minutes for each main and the gen) using on-board water would drain the tanks pretty quickly.

Eventually, I'll do a manifold for all three engines and put in a hose bib in the transom locker or one of the cockpit lockers, so I don't have to run a hose through the ER hatch (which isn't a big deal). Then I just have to open/close the valves in the ER for each engine.

If I don't have dock water I just wait until I get to a dock to flush, and I don't sweat it if I can't flush for some reason, but feel like if most of the time the engines have fresh instead of salt I am making huge difference.
Sounds really good for convenience. That's the key for me I think, make it more automated, or at least only one connection to make with dock water. I'm always hooked up to the dock spigot but I shut the dock valve off when not aboard. My boat potable tank doesn't get used much but I try to empty and refill it periodically, especially mindful that the water heater must always have water it it. I sanitized entire potable system a while back. Peace of mind really, no issues. Didn't know if ever done or not.
 
Sounds really good for convenience. That's the key for me I think, make it more automated, or at least only one connection to make with dock water. I'm always hooked up to the dock spigot but I shut the dock valve off when not aboard. My boat potable tank doesn't get used much but I try to empty and refill it periodically, especially mindful that the water heater must always have water it it. I sanitized entire potable system a while back. Peace of mind really, no issues. Didn't know if ever done or not.

Would be interesting to see flow rate of bilge wash down, or you could tee into the PEX and send water to the strainers.

Then it would just be hooking up to dock water and you could flush pretty easily.

My normal end of day looks like dock, windward lines, flush, and then everything else.

Agree, once there is a manifold that puts water at all three engines strainers, it will be very easy. Remote shutdowns on the engines would be the only other plus to really make it faster.
 
Hi All,

Does anyone know what color paint our window frames are?

My winter war on corrosion continues and I want to get close so I don't feel like I have to do them all at once
 
I tackled that job in the fall of 2020. I could not find the match and it appeared the frames had been painted previously at some point. I ended up with a small can of white Interlux paint from West Marine to do the work.
 
I tackled that job in the fall of 2020. I could not find the match and it appeared the frames had been painted previously at some point. I ended up with a small can of white Interlux paint from West Marine to do the work.

Thx Jim!

Did you do touch-ups or paint them all?
 
Thx Jim!

Did you do touch-ups or paint them all?
I painted the port and starboard side windows completely. The two windshield frames at the time were in good shape. I noticed a little bubble on one of the windshield frames a few weeks ago so it is time to whip out the brush. It's fairly easy, but time consuming to mask everything down to prep and clean for paint.
 
Haul Out 28Feb

Hi All,

First time hauling since my survey.

Any gotchas?

I am going to have my props tweaked as I am over-propped, so just ordered a photo-tach to manually confirm RPMs before I take them in so I get the shop the right info.

Have one thru-hull to change, underwater light(s), changing main zinc and fixing bonding wire, and changing to the right shaft seals with the oversized carbons.

Anything to check on the the trim tabs?

Thx in advance!
 
Last edited:
Haul Out 28Feb

Hi All,

First time hauling since my survey.

Any gotchas?

I am going to have my props tweaked as I am over-propped, so just ordered a photo-tach to manually confirm RPMs before I take them in so I get the chop the right info.

Have one thru-hull to change, underwater light(s), changing main zinc and fixing bonding wire, and changing to the right shaft seals with the oversized carbons.

Anything to check on the the trim tabs?

Thx in advance!
Our haul out got cancelled due to a staff shortage at the yard with Covid. We are now on the books for February 11th. I believe I talked about the "to do list" earlier, but again it is bottom paint and the hull stripes, lights and the minor leak in the hull where my port side trim tab attaches. I will keep you updated once it is out.

I thought I had a bad thru-hull to change for the AC/heater but I exercised it a bit this last weekend when I was cleaning all of the sea strainers and got it to fully close for the first time. Here is a little endorsement for the purchase of a set of Forespar Sta-Plugs. I picked up a set when I replaced my macerator pump a few weeks back. I used them again this past weekend when I cleaned the strainers. After closing the thru-hull and opening the cap to the strainer, I used my wet vac to get the water level down and then quickly slid a Sta-Plug in the line to stop the water flow. It worked great. The claim on the packaging is actually true: "Ideal for plugging hoses during routine maintenance." :)
Sta-Plug.jpg
 
I have a cone set onboard, similar, not exact same design. Hope to never use! Re. haulout, had bottom job last June. Found leak from a rudder flange, not the rudder shaft. Had both rudders dropped, cleaned, prepped, resealed. Also replaced both engine seacocks with new. One wouldn't close all the way. Rather than attempt fixing, went with two replacements. Shaft Cutlass bearings (actually a sleeve) inspected by several sets of eyes, found to be ok for now. Might need replace next haulout. Shafts, props, strut all inspected. Applied running gear paint. Had hydraulic lines replaced on swim platform, several fittings "fell off" on disconnect. My trim tabs ok, hydraulics are interior, rams seem ok. All new zincs of course. Thorough clean of the lightning arrester plate on the bottom. Plugged worm holes in a fairing block mounting of the forward depth sonar transducer. Yep, it's wood.
 
The plugs on the thru hulls serve 2 functions:

drain water for winterizing

same thread size as a grease fitting

It's easy to remove these and replace with a stainless grease fitting.

I was advised by a well-respected CSR sage to use synthetic grease.

When dealing with a stuck seacock do not use a hammer, a long cheater pipe works best.

BEST !

RWS
 
I painted the port and starboard side windows completely. The two windshield frames at the time were in good shape. I noticed a little bubble on one of the windshield frames a few weeks ago so it is time to whip out the brush. It's fairly easy, but time consuming to mask everything down to prep and clean for paint.

I've noticed paint bubbling on my window frames as well. I was thinking I needed to sand down, prime, etc first. What paint did you use? Also, Does anyone ever mess with replacing the gaskets on the windshield? Mine are fine, but 20+ years old.
 
I've noticed paint bubbling on my window frames as well. I was thinking I needed to sand down, prime, etc first. What paint did you use? Also, Does anyone ever mess with replacing the gaskets on the windshield? Mine are fine, but 20+ years old.
I sanded the frames where the bubbling was going on and a light sand everywhere else so the paint had good adhesion, but I don't recall priming them. I used the white Interlux paint available from West Marine. I'll take a picture of the can the next time I'm at the boat.
My windshield rubber seems to be in good shape. I do question the seals on the side vent windows. So far no leaks, but they are starting to look suspect.
 
I sanded the frames where the bubbling was going on and a light sand everywhere else so the paint had good adhesion, but I don't recall priming them. I used the white Interlux paint available from West Marine. I'll take a picture of the can the next time I'm at the boat.
My windshield rubber seems to be in good shape. I do question the seals on the side vent windows. So far no leaks, but they are starting to look suspect.

Yeah, my window seals need to be replaced and the side windows as well.
 
I had to run out to the boat last night to get ready for the haul out this Friday. Here is the paint I used on the frames.
BDA367AE-2A2A-487B-B3E4-20331568BDB9.jpeg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,948
Messages
1,422,817
Members
60,930
Latest member
Ebrown69
Back
Top