The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Update:

The lower track was separating from the door at the bottom. I drilled a small access hole and put 5 new screws into the door and track. I could place an access hole where it is not seen. Success. The door slides great now.

Had the marina splash the boat today, however, they said the prop shaft seal is leaking. They should get that repaired today and I should be good for the weekend. ALWAYS something.
 
Hey all, first time poster here. I’ve had my boat since fall of 2014. When I bought it the transparent portions of the camper canvas were pretty dirty with what looks like rust stains. Any advise on a product and/or method that could clean this without damaging it?
 
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Sounds like the eisenglass has become sun-damaged. Was the boat stored/moored with the eisenglass up? The sun heats dirt and salt on the ‘glass and it melts itself into the plastic surface — most often at the support tubes. Sometimes, if it’s not too bad, you can buff the damage out, but I haven’t had any luck with that. The solution is to replace the ‘glass.

If the canvas part is still in good shape, you might be able to have a canvas shop replace just the ‘glass, but if it’s in poor shape, you probably will want to replace the whole thing. Great Lakes Boat Tops made the original canvas for SR, and used to have the patterns and replacements available, but i’m not sure they still do...but a call or email is worth the try. Otherwise, a local canvas shop would be your best bet.
 
Sounds like the eisenglass has become sun-damaged. Was the boat stored/moored with the eisenglass up? The sun heats dirt and salt on the ‘glass and it melts itself into the plastic surface — most often at the support tubes. Sometimes, if it’s not too bad, you can buff the damage out, but I haven’t had any luck with that. The solution is to replace the ‘glass.

If the canvas part is still in good shape, you might be able to have a canvas shop replace just the ‘glass, but if it’s in poor shape, you probably will want to replace the whole thing. Great Lakes Boat Tops made the original canvas for SR, and used to have the patterns and replacements available, but i’m not sure they still do...but a call or email is worth the try. Otherwise, a local canvas shop would be your best bet.


Thanks for the reply. As far as I know it was stored below deck underneath the cushions, but the boat was with the previous owner for 13 years before I got it, so who knows. Canvas itself is in pretty decent shape still, otherwise. Thanks again for the advice.
 
... we’re pretty dirty with what looks like rust stains. Any advise on a product and/or method ...

More than likely the clear vinyl is at its end and needs to be replaced. Without seeing it it's hard to say. Generally I recommend either 210 cleaner or 210 scratch remover when trying to clean or restore clear vinyl.

However once the clear vinyl loses its plasticizers it dry out, looks almost burnt (which is what I associated with your rust description) and will eventually begin to just crack.

If that is the case replacing the clear vinyl or possibly the entire piece may be the only option.

I would start with the least aggressive methods and progress from there.

-Kevin
 
So been thinking about a newer boat but not sure what to do. Haven't been looking at SR because of the options I want SR doesn't seem to offer. The main thing SR lacks in most models is the walk through windshield. We were at the marina today and walked by a 260 that caught my wifes attention. Originally I wanted to go bigger (30-32'). I started thinking over the winter that maybe we don't need anything that big. Thought about getting something similar in size but that has more amenities and maybe in a couple years go to the 30'er. I will need to save a few more years to get the bigger boat and don't really want to wait that long for the AC, windlass, pump out head, etc. Our trips are usually cut short because 1) it is too hot 2) wife won't use the porta potty because of the pain it is to empty it

Not sure on year but want to stay under $30,000 (trailer included) so thinking about 2002ish era.

Must haves:
1) walk through windshield
2) windlass
3) generator
4) pump out head
5) extended swim platform
6) AC
7) larger optioned engine (at least the 5.7)
8) trailer
9) water heater


So the questions I have are>
1) the walk through windshield. The steps are on the cabin door. Is there a weight limit? How do they hold up? I'm about 270lbs.
2) I have heard something about the 260 being very 'tippy' and hard to keep level. Always making adjustments to the trim tabs? Worse than my 1986 250? We boat on the Ohio River near Pittsburgh but might make the occasional trip to Erie or other smaller lakes
3) What is the length from the back of the swim platform to the tip of the anchor? I'm pushing the size limits for my slip with mine. Mine is just over 27' tip to tip. The other 260 is right up from me so I will probably be ok.
4) what is the typical weight on the trailer? 2 axle and 3 axle. I have a 2013 Ram 1500 Hemi that I pull mine with. I think my tow capacity is about 8700lbs. with 3.55s. I think the 3.92s with the 8 spd tranny is a little over 10,000lbs.

Suggestions/opinions?

Thanks!
 
Boatman...

1) No problem
2) That's more with the '05+ 260DA, although even there it is not bad at all. Even less of a problem with the earlier 260DA. Never had any issues keeping it level with mine. Any narrow beam boat will take some corrections here and there, but it was never anywhere near the extent that I would call it an issue. In fact, I never would have even thought of it if some people didn't complain about it here on this forum. I could run for hours with only minor adjustments every once in a great while.
3) The boat overall is 28'... plus maybe ?18"? to the tip of the anchor
4) Roughly 9,500 to 10,000 loaded up.
 
Must haves:
1) walk through windshield
2) windlass
3) generator
4) pump out head
5) extended swim platform
6) AC
7) larger optioned engine (at least the 5.7)
8) trailer
9) water heater

As a previous owner of a 2003 260DA I can tell you that this list of must haves will severely limit your pool of available boats. You may get some but not all and those that have it "all" may not be factory either. Unlike newer boats - it was hard to find boats and adding in a generator will make it almost unattainable.

1) the walk through windshield. The steps are on the cabin door. Is there a weight limit? How do they hold up? I'm about 270lbs.

For walking through you will probably be fine - I would not jump around on it (at any weight) though because if you break any track wheels the repair may not be easy.

2) I have heard something about the 260 being very 'tippy' and hard to keep level.

The 260DA has a bit of height and because of this I choose my 260DA without any arch to keep the center of gravity lower. I would not call it tippy but because is is an 8'-6" beam does tend to get caught in the waves and with it's height the bow will catch the wind. All of this can be offset with trimming the engine and using the trim tabs effectively.

3) What is the length from the back of the swim platform to the tip of the anchor? I'm pushing the size limits for my slip with mine. Mine is just over 27' tip to tip. The other 260 is right up from me so I will probably be ok.

Overall length of this class was 28feet - you are not gaining much.

4) what is the typical weight on the trailer? 2 axle and 3 axle. I have a 2013 Ram 1500 Hemi that I pull mine with. I think my tow capacity is about 8700lbs. with 3.55s. I think the 3.92s with the 8 spd tranny is a little over 10,000lbs.

My trailer held the boat well. It was a 9800lb rated loadmaster. I used it to haul the boat home along with my friends 350 and then twice a year (spring launch - fall pull) with my Suburban. I (personally) would not want to regularly trailer the boat if wet slipping was available.

Suggestions/opinions?

You know what the story here is... always buy your next boat now. I would look at similar years for a 280 up. Preferrably a 320/340 with Twins and V-Drives. You may have to finance but you will be more likely to find the boat with your must haves and will not take a hit moving up again.

I loved my 260DA while I had it - it was a great boat - The 340SDA changed completely changed how I boated and would probably not go back.

-Kevin
 
As a previous owner of a 2003 260DA I can tell you that this list of must haves will severely limit your pool of available boats. You may get some but not all and those that have it "all" may not be factory either. Unlike newer boats - it was hard to find boats and adding in a generator will make it almost unattainable.



For walking through you will probably be fine - I would not jump around on it (at any weight) though because if you break any track wheels the repair may not be easy.



The 260DA has a bit of height and because of this I choose my 260DA without any arch to keep the center of gravity lower. I would not call it tippy but because is is an 8'-6" beam does tend to get caught in the waves and with it's height the bow will catch the wind. All of this can be offset with trimming the engine and using the trim tabs effectively.



Overall length of this class was 28feet - you are not gaining much.



My trailer held the boat well. It was a 9800lb rated loadmaster. I used it to haul the boat home along with my friends 350 and then twice a year (spring launch - fall pull) with my Suburban. I (personally) would not want to regularly trailer the boat if wet slipping was available.



You know what the story here is... always buy your next boat now. I would look at similar years for a 280 up. Preferrably a 320/340 with Twins and V-Drives. You may have to finance but you will be more likely to find the boat with your must haves and will not take a hit moving up again.

I loved my 260DA while I had it - it was a great boat - The 340SDA changed completely changed how I boated and would probably not go back.

-Kevin
I started looking around last night and saw a few but they are pretty hard to find with the genny. Definitely don't want a 32 or 34. It is just the 2 of us 99% of the time. 30-31' would be the absolute max I would want to go and that is even pushing it. I think a 29' would be about the best all around. But I do hear you about buying your next boat now. I did find a 280 that would be in our range but still not sure I even want that big or want the expense of 2 engines and outdrives. After working on mine this spring and seeing how tight it is in the engine bay for somebody my size I started questioning whether I really wanted 2 engines.

Been looking at the 270 Rinkers too but still tossing it around.

Won't be towing too often. Pull mine 4 times a year now. Maybe with a newer one we might make a trip a year to another lake but not much more than that.

ughhhh. Decisions, decisions
 
I started looking around last night and saw a few but they are pretty hard to find with the genny. Definitely don't want a 32 or 34. It is just the 2 of us 99% of the time. 30-31' would be the absolute max I would want to go and that is even pushing it. I think a 29' would be about the best all around. But I do hear you about buying your next boat now. I did find a 280 that would be in our range but still not sure I even want that big or want the expense of 2 engines and outdrives. After working on mine this spring and seeing how tight it is in the engine bay for somebody my size I started questioning whether I really wanted 2 engines.

Been looking at the 270 Rinkers too but still tossing it around.

Won't be towing too often. Pull mine 4 times a year now. Maybe with a newer one we might make a trip a year to another lake but not much more than that.

ughhhh. Decisions, decisions

Take a look at some 310s around that age. They are great boat too. I understand you're concerns about two engines but if you are able to do your own maintenance it's alot simpler with v-drives.

The 280s are very nice but you still have the vberth to deal with for setup or breakdown although they do have a slightly larger midcabin.

We upgraded to the 340 knowing it's eventually going to be just the two of us but we like entertaining and that includes inviting other people out. For that we love the space and the beam makes it more stable.

Gonna be a tough decision but spend the summer getting on alot of boats. If you're out on Long island NY for any reason drop me a line and I give you a good hands on.

Despite my recommendations buy what you are comfortable with both mechanically and financially.

-Kevin
 
Take a look at some 310s around that age. They are great boat too. I understand you're concerns about two engines but if you are able to do your own maintenance it's alot simpler with v-drives.

The 280s are very nice but you still have the vberth to deal with for setup or breakdown although they do have a slightly larger midcabin.

We upgraded to the 340 knowing it's eventually going to be just the two of us but we like entertaining and that includes inviting other people out. For that we love the space and the beam makes it more stable.

Gonna be a tough decision but spend the summer getting on alot of boats. If you're out on Long island NY for any reason drop me a line and I give you a good hands on.

Despite my recommendations buy what you are comfortable with both mechanically and financially.

-Kevin
Thanks for the advice and the offer. Not sure why but where we boat for the most part the biggest boats are in the 31' range. We do have a 360 at our marina but I think the next biggest is a 318 Four Winns and a 310 DA. Not sure if the 360 is inboard or IO but all the rest are IO. Not sure if it is a matter of the river we boat on or what but hardly any v-drives around here. Gonna have to start checking them out
 
Please help the new guy...

I took my new 2004 260 out for the first time this weekend, for a short cruise on a nearby lake. It ran fine for 45 minutes, and then on the way back I started to accelerate and the engine died. After that, it wouldn't turn over, despite plenty of battery strength. Now I simply get a click when I turn the key. I suspect it is the solenoid, but I was hoping to confirm with all of you experienced owners. The engine will turn manually, so I know nothing is seized. I discovered a frayed wire near the alternator that could have caused a short, but even after relocating it to a safe place, I still have the same problem. Is it possible that a short would permanently disable a solenoid? Also, I've attached a picture that shows a bunch of hoses that make it almost impossible to access the starter/solenoid. Is it safe to disconnect those in order to test or replace the solenoid? Thank you!
IMG_20180603_165906657.jpg
IMG_20180603_170037724.jpg
 
When shorts happen, anything is possible. I can't tell how big that frayed/burnt wire is. But it looks to be orange in color which makes me think it's the alternator charge wire. There was a recall on this many years ago... for the exact reason (assuming I'm looking at the charge wire) you see there.

The second picture... Am I correct that we are looking at the starboard side of the engine? I see a couple things there to address, which in a round a bout way, means "Yes" remove those hoses. First thing I noticed is that the inlet hose (coming from the transom) is partially collapsed. Second is that there is only one hose clamp on the nipple for that plastic flush attachment (MUST have two on every nipple below the water line). Third thing is that there is a plastic flush attachment being used. My opinion... get rid of that flusher (they cause problems) and replace the inlet hose with a new one that extends from the transom all the way to the raw water pump.

If you're in the water when you remove that red hose, water will come in the boat. Don't panic - just plug the hose and move the end (remove from the water pump to have enough slack) above the water line. It might be a little hard to replace the whole red hose when in the water. If you securely block the water inlet on the drive, though, that would help.
 
So quick question....I have a single engine but have an orange wire coming from under the engine (from the starter maybe?). It is cut off right at the alternator. I have an isolator and somebody had said that the orange wire isn't needed if you have an isolator? I have been trying to sort out a charging issue since I got this boat 3 years ago. Haven't had any issues but only read about 11 volts when running.

Where should that orange wire go between? Do I need it? I thought about connecting it to the ALT but not sure which post and didn't want to fry anything. It is possible it was connected at one point and somehow was missed when the alternator was put back on?
 
Did you check the main breaker on the engine to see if the is popped?
 
When shorts happen, anything is possible. I can't tell how big that frayed/burnt wire is. But it looks to be orange in color which makes me think it's the alternator charge wire. There was a recall on this many years ago... for the exact reason (assuming I'm looking at the charge wire) you see there.

The second picture... Am I correct that we are looking at the starboard side of the engine? I see a couple things there to address, which in a round a bout way, means "Yes" remove those hoses. First thing I noticed is that the inlet hose (coming from the transom) is partially collapsed. Second is that there is only one hose clamp on the nipple for that plastic flush attachment (MUST have two on every nipple below the water line). Third thing is that there is a plastic flush attachment being used. My opinion... get rid of that flusher (they cause problems) and replace the inlet hose with a new one that extends from the transom all the way to the raw water pump.

If you're in the water when you remove that red hose, water will come in the boat. Don't panic - just plug the hose and move the end (remove from the water pump to have enough slack) above the water line. It might be a little hard to replace the whole red hose when in the water. If you securely block the water inlet on the drive, though, that would help.
Thanks for the quick reply and valuable info. The boat is out of the water. This is my first cruiser, and I love it. I've already made some great cosmetic and electronic improvements. I'm a longtime classic car restorer, and I could tell at first glance that this engine compartment didn't meet my standards. I trust that the orange alternator cable is available for replacement? My obligatory stupid question - are their preformed cables for this water connection, or do I make my own? There's a black hose behind the red one - can I work around it to get to the solenoid?
 
Did you check the main breaker on the engine to see if the is popped?
I've checked all the panel breakers, but am I missing one on the engine?
 
Thanks for the quick reply and valuable info. The boat is out of the water. This is my first cruiser, and I love it. I've already made some great cosmetic and electronic improvements. I'm a longtime classic car restorer, and I could tell at first glance that this engine compartment didn't meet my standards. I trust that the orange alternator cable is available for replacement? My obligatory stupid question - are their preformed cables for this water connection, or do I make my own? There's a black hose behind the red one - can I work around it to get to the solenoid?
The black hose is the output from the raw water pump up to the power steering cooler. The red one is wire-reinforced because it is under suction and I believe it is just a straight hose (not pre-formed). Most likely that bend occurred because whomever installed that crappy plastic flusher cut the hose, but didn't account for the added length of the flusher. That pushed the hose aft and caused that crinkle. Once you get the flusher out of there and check out the hose real well (make sure there is no soft spot), it might be just fine to reuse by joining the two cut ends with a bronze barb... and double clamped (with worm gears rotated 180* to each other).

You may just want to remove the raw water pump - remove it by unbolting the (3) bolts that hold the pump's bracket to the engine. If you don't know when the impeller was last changed, it's a good idea to do that, anwyays.

The orange wire is just a wire - nothing special - just make sure you match the gauge. If there's a Merc dealer nearby, there's a good chance they can do this for you at no charge.

Tip... I know this thread isn't short, but when you have some time, read through the entire thread. There is a lot of good info in this thread. A LOT.
 
Good advice - I'll do the impeller while I have things apart. Here's one of the cosmetic improvements I've done. The old carpet was crumbling underneath...
IMG_20180527_152835971.jpg
 

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