The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Bravo3 question, last Nov 2018, gear oil drained and changed in leg, leg and gear oil reservoir filled and showing at full mark, just pulled boat out of dry winter storage.
NO oil what so ever showing in remote reservoir.
Could not find any oil in bilge or on outer surface of leg.. ???
Any ideas as to how or where oil can go?? this really has me worried, it will be a week or two before the lake launch.
Can you explain the process you used to fill the gearcase? Through what hole... top-off... etc.
 
Bravo3 question, last Nov 2018, gear oil drained and changed in leg, leg and gear oil reservoir filled and showing at full mark, just pulled boat out of dry winter storage.
NO oil what so ever showing in remote reservoir.
Could not find any oil in bilge or on outer surface of leg.. ???
Any ideas as to how or where oil can go?? this really has me worried, it will be a week or two before the lake launch.

If it's not all in your bilge or under your boat then I would assume you actually did not completely fill it. Sometimes when you fill the drive an air bubble can for blocking the fluid from settling down. When the air bubble finally burbs our the oil settles down.

-Kevin
 
Ok checked both helm controls and foot switches, all are rust/corrosion free. My windlass will only pull up anchor and without input. Once up the windlass spins till pops circuit breaker in engine compartment. Suggestions?
 
Ok checked both helm controls and foot switches, all are rust/corrosion free. My windlass will only pull up anchor and without input. Once up the windlass spins till pops circuit breaker in engine compartment. Suggestions?

Are you saying that when you let go of the anchor up switch that it continues to try to bring up the anchor and blows the fuse? If so I would test the switch as the windlass anchor up and down should only be momentary switches.

-Kevin
 
i have the rocker switch then the up/down toggle. I was under the impression rocker was on/off? Its a hold down rocker in other words you have to hold it down or up while then holding toggle switch.
 
On mine, the on/off rocker is momentary — and is wired reversed from what you’d expect(down is on...). The toggle is the up/down control, and is also momentary on/off, so it has to be held in the desired direction.
 
No, the on/off switch latches (the switch is momentary but the windlass power stays on once you release it). The actuating switch (the toggle) does have to be held on.
 
well that maybe my problem the rocker, does latch, it goes up and down, doesn't catch or latch
 
well that maybe my problem the rocker, does latch, it goes up and down, doesn't catch or latch
Not sure what you are saying there. Sounds contradictory?

I'm thinking, though, that you are still confused on proper operation. Neither switch 'physically' stays in a certain position. You have an 'on/off' rocker switch... press to turn on the power, press again to turn off. As Jeff said, the switch is "momentary". It controls a latching solenoid, which in turn sends power to the control box, which then powers the windlass either up or down with input from the toggle and foot switches (if you have them).
 
ok, that makes more sense, is there an indicator or supposed to be, when you hit rocker to on position? The issue i'm having is when I reset circuit breaker in engine compartment and power to on, with toggle in neutral (not up or down) the anchor retracts.
 
ok, that makes more sense, is there an indicator or supposed to be, when you hit rocker to on position? The issue i'm having is when I reset circuit breaker in engine compartment and power to on, with toggle in neutral (not up or down) the anchor retracts.

I would look at a switch. If it is a typical Carling style it might just be fouled up internally and shorting closed contact and keeping it in the continuous up position. Why not post a pic of your switch setup.

-Kevin
 
ok, that makes more sense, is there an indicator or supposed to be, when you hit rocker to on position? The issue i'm having is when I reset circuit breaker in engine compartment and power to on, with toggle in neutral (not up or down) the anchor retracts.
The rocker switch should light up blue (if memory serves), to indicate power to the system. You should be able to tell by looking at the rocker switch if it's supposed to light up (little window).

Along the lines of what Kevin said, I would first look at the toggle switch. In fact, disconnect the blue wire (controls up)... does issue stop? Does 'down' then work? Jump 12V+ to the blue... does up now work? If yes, you pretty much narrowed it down to a bad/corroded switch/contacts. If you have foot switches, you can further check (after removing the toggle from the scenario) by operating them.

Really, though... look at the wiring schematic in your manual - you can pretty much figure out all of this by looking at that. I didn't look at SR's website to see if it's downloadable - they've been having issues for a while with getting their downloads back up and running. But, you can always look at another boat's wiring schematic, too.
 
Thanks to you both, I will try the switches at the helm, I know for a fact they're not lighting up, no indicators.
 
If it's not all in your bilge or under your boat then I would assume you actually did not completely fill it. Sometimes when you fill the drive an air bubble can for blocking the fluid from settling down. When the air bubble finally burbs our the oil settles down.

-Kevin
Been awhile since I was on the site, Kevin you hit the nail on the head with your reply..air bubble..400 ml of gear oil added after 1 hrs running in gear at idle at dock..plus 6 hrs cruising time since splash day..its all good gear reservoir staying full..fingers crossed ...thank you
 
I have an 02' 260DA. One thing we want to install is a transom shower (hot/cold). I have been looking around for install guides people have done, but not seeing much. Has anyone done this and have input? Also, i'd be curious where on the transom this can fit on my boat. It doesn't seem there is much room for it. I have included a photo of the stern of my boat for reference with this hot/cold unit in mind https://www.replacementboatparts.com/Hot/ColdTransomShower.aspx. Any input would be appreciated.

Cheers
 

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I have an 02' 260DA. One thing we want to install is a transom shower (hot/cold). I have been looking around for install guides people have done, but not seeing much. Has anyone done this and have input? Also, i'd be curious where on the transom this can fit on my boat. It doesn't seem there is much room for it. I have included a photo of the stern of my boat for reference with this hot/cold unit in mind https://www.replacementboatparts.com/Hot/ColdTransomShower.aspx. Any input would be appreciated.

Cheers
I don't recall if it was ever an original option on that model. But the 'usual' place that you see the shower is the port or stbd wall in the 'walkthrough' area (transom door). You can search through pics or model archives to see if it was - or just search for pics of other models to give a visual.

In the end, though, put it wherever you want. Download the installation template for the model you're thinking of (or a different one if needed) and see if it will fit where you want it. Do some exploring on your boat to check the space. But don't over think it - check out the space, cut the hole, run the lines and be done with it. It may sound daunting - but it's really pretty straight forward.
 
Has anyone experienced normal idle then when opening up throttle, choking and then almost stall back to idle and ok again. First time out this summer.
So far drained fuel, some water found, changed fuel filter on water separator, changed plugs, then distributor/rotor buttoned back up and same issue. My next step is to look at fuel lines.....
Anyone have similar and success ?
 

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